倫敦2012秋冬女裝報導之五: Mary Katrantzou日用品紋身 Meadham Kirchhoff卡通嘉年華
London FW2012 Women’s Collections: Bedazzled!


本季倫敦設計師印花鮮豔如霓虹。(由左到右:Holly Fulton、Mary Katrantzou、Meadham Kirchhoff、David Koma)

本季倫敦設計師印花鮮豔如霓虹。(由左到右:Holly Fulton、Mary Katrantzou、Meadham Kirchhoff、David Koma)

»»各家設計師本日比拼印花創意,Mary Katrantzou將豪宅中的日用品化為奇幻印花,Meadham Kirchhoff不惶多讓,用衝突色彩和材質打造卡通嘉年華。Roksanda Ilincic則以經典剪裁重新詮釋運動裝,在休閒中透露優雅。

前兩季以繁複印花和精細手工竄紅的Mary Katrantzou,驚人創意未有稍減,繼廢鐵和空罐頭之後,本季系列將居家用品以鏡像印花手法搬上伸展台:開場的一套裙裝就以湯匙和鹽巴胡椒罐為靈感,令人不由想起「美女與野獸」(Beauty and the Beast)中餐具隨著「Be our Guest」起舞的一幕;接踵而來的還有衣架、鉛筆、電話與打字機等不一而足;秀末的巴洛克浮雕印花與花園迷宮圖紋,則表明秀中物品來自莊園宅邸,自是身價不凡。本季的剪裁也趨於繁複,層疊的裝飾裙襬與印花交織令人目不暇給,肩頸與袖籠剪裁富結構感,且與印花互相呼應,更為系列增添立體感。與法國蕾絲工坊Lesage合作,本是Mary Katrantzou強項的細節,在本季更加精采,其中一襲裙裝上的無數鉛筆,皆由手工鑲嵌成黃色漩渦;「巴洛克庭園」印花裙裝的雙袖也細工植上綠葉,令人真假難分。

Mary Katrantzou本季印花取材自各種居家裝潢用品。

Mary Katrantzou本季印花取材自各種居家裝潢用品。

似乎是嫌上季的「小甜甜」還不夠嚇人,Meadham Kirchhoff的兩位設計師本季打造了自己的理想夜店。猶如「愛麗絲夢遊仙境」(Alice in Wonderland)遇到70年代Disco場景般,模特兒們穿著繽紛條紋褲襪搭配閃亮厚底鞋,頭頂凌亂「貝多芬」假髮出場。服裝本身也不遑多讓,皮草大衣層層染成七彩色澤,頗有「怪獸電力公司」(Monster Inc.)中毛怪的丰姿;霓虹亮片拼接而成的套裝與閃亮裙裝猶如耶誕樹裝飾;小圓點雪紡洋裝仿若阿嬤的睡衣;秀末以「阿凡達」藍臉妝容搭配「蝙蝠俠」項鍊,宛若卡通電影大匯串。

Meadham Kirchhoff本季如卡通般奇幻。

Meadham Kirchhoff本季如卡通般奇幻。

Roksanda Ilincic在運動服的外表下,潛藏了訂製服的優雅線條。大件T恤的垂墜線條猶如Balenciaga的繭形大衣;運動外套腰部使用羅紋束口,則有幾分New Look的風采;袖子部分使用雪紡綢緞拼接,夾克上則拼接絲質毛呢與小羊毛皮材質,使休閒裝扮也可以十足奢華。連身裙裝本季則以水藍與紫紅等運動色系演繹,腰間簡單的抓皺處理,就使平滑絲質盡顯流暢曲線,是Roksanda Ilincic拿手好戲。

Roksanda Ilincic讓運動裝展現優雅。

Roksanda Ilincic讓運動裝展現優雅。

Holly Fulton以火熱桃紅和清涼水藍兩色貫穿全場,展現自己一貫的活力。常以幾何建築圖紋做為靈感的她,本季以「水晶宮」式的玻璃溫室發想,層層疊疊構成富有都市動感的印花;綴以彩蝶紛飛,與眾多無袖A字裙搭配顯得春意盎然;下半場則加入棕櫚與海灘剪影,盡顯夏日清涼,無視冬日寒風。

Holly Fulton以暖春搭配涼夏,無視濕冷倫敦冬日。

Holly Fulton以暖春搭配涼夏,無視濕冷倫敦冬日。

在一片繽紛創意間,David Koma本季開秀就顯得相當嚴肅。帶有防彈衣色澤的科技感材質,搭上皮革滾邊,十足致命女殺手打扮。在60年代現代主義的俐落線條間,四處鑲嵌的金屬扣環與腰帶使系列更多了一分冷艷,彷彿隨時能發射暗器傷人;秀中卻發現扣環中如魔術般散出緞面裝飾裙襬,斑斕色彩搭配亮片令人眼前一亮。««

David Koma本季由嚴肅轉為繽紛。

David Koma本季由嚴肅轉為繽紛。

»»Mary Katrantzou continued her endeavor in complex prints and beadwork but turned to daily objects for inspiration. Starting Utensils, then hangers, pencils and telephones, each scenario in a household have taken turn on her dresses this season. The show ended with the Baroque reliefs and garden scenes, offering a glimpse of the mansion where the objects reside.

Meadham Kirchhoff have taken a more merry approach this season, sending raving party animals inspired by a mix of cartoons and 70’s disco. The models came out in multicolor striped stockings and fur jackets of similarly ensemble, and rainbow sequined suits reminiscent of Christmas decoration.

Roksanda Ilincic turned to the elegant side of sportswear, blending couture shapes with tees, hoodies and bomber jackets. The materials were also fittingly luxurious, sweatpants were made of silk dupioni while outerwear were constructed with boucle tweed and astrakhan.

Holly Fulton continued to churn out energy charged collections, the show was a binary between red hot socking pinks and calm turquoise, while the prints ranged from springy hothouses and butterflies to palm leaves of summer resorts.

David Koma started off a bit calm compared with the other shows today, the charcoal tech fabrics in combination with metal buckles combined for a futuristic femme fatale look, while the later part of the show has seen a multitude of colorful peplum, brightening up the mood together with trompe l’oeil arranged sequins.««

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