倫敦2012秋冬女裝特別報導之七: 數位轉印當道 虹彩無畏嚴冬
London FW2012 Women’s Collections Trend Report


設計師紛紛祭出拿手印花手法(由左至右:Christopher Kane、Basso & Brooke、Peter Pilotto)

設計師紛紛祭出拿手印花手法(由左至右:Christopher Kane、Basso & Brooke、Peter Pilotto)

»»歐洲今冬的嚴寒並沒能阻擋倫敦的五彩繽紛,設計師以印花的豐富想像與各種霓虹色彩,用熱情頑抗寒冬。而50年代的女性化風潮似乎也飄洋過海來到英國,不論是傳統男裝元素,或是休閒運動裝扮,在本季都少不了纖細的腰部線條,可搭範圍變得更加廣泛。  

Trend 1 印花狂想曲
倫敦時裝周素以花團錦簇聞名,本季也沒有辜負大家的期望,印花同樣取材豐富、手法繁多。Mary Katrantzou和Peter Pilotto本季皆延續上季使用數位轉印,搭配鏡像對稱手法,使尋常物品也如萬花筒般令人目不暇給;Basso & Brooke則把千鳥、格紋與山形紋等尋常圖案重新切割後,重新組成隨機花樣;Giles本季以印花仿製燒灼效果,與裙襬所做的燒焦處理真假難辨,堪稱一絕;Christopher Kane則略帶陰鬱,渲染效果的木紋印花與干涉波形圖樣,彷彿會自行移動一般,令人有些發毛。

Trend 2 螢光粉彩 無畏寒冬
拒絕對寒冬妥協,搶眼色調成為秋冬倫敦的主流,霓虹色彩充斥伸展台之間,在冬日發光發熱。House of Holland除了大紅色裙裝之外,嫩黃、水藍與桃紅等高彩度色系也以山形紋印花交相爭輝,產生衝突視覺效果;Matthew Williamson和Holly Fulton大概是怕觀眾「中暑」,在秀上冷暖色系各擅勝場;前者以土耳其藍與亮橘交織全場,後者則在桃紅色的上半場後,加入水藍為觀眾降溫。Moschino Cheap and Chip本季則帶些許粉色,將上述色彩略為稀釋後,揉合甜美彩妝主題;Meadham Kirchhoff本季推出狂野卡通嘉年華,色彩自然也不遑多讓,打破一切規則,調色盤中的五顏六色,全數加入了當晚的狂歡派對。

本季倫敦色彩斑斕。(由左至右:Meadham Kirchhoff、House of Holland、Holly Fulton)

本季倫敦色彩斑斕。(由左至右:Meadham Kirchhoff、House of Holland、Holly Fulton)

Trend 3 裝飾裙襬 無處不在
簡潔裙裝線條本季在倫敦出局,設計師們在腰間以層層疊疊的裝飾裙襬(Peplum),玩味裙裝的多種可能。配合活潑躍動的剪接線,Antonio Berardi的裙襬同樣不按牌理出牌,一下如盔甲般昂然挺立,一下又寫意地出現在一側腰際,顯得俏皮十足;David Koma則讓裙襬如魔術般從金屬扣環中傾洩而出。Burberry Prorsum除了以多層裙襬豐富鉛筆裙線條外,連經典風衣腰間都搭上立體裙襬線條;Nicole Farhi用大量亮片鑲嵌而成的閃亮裙襬,則堪稱本季最搶眼。

俏麗裙襬本季無所不在。(由左至右:Antonio Berardi、David Koma、Burberry Prorsum)

俏麗裙襬本季無所不在。(由左至右:Antonio Berardi、David Koma、Burberry Prorsum)

Trend 4 男裝元素 女性線條
除了年輕設計師帶來的繽紛活力之外,在倫敦時裝周絕不缺席的還有深厚的英倫男裝傳統。但軍服、剪裁一絲不苟的西裝外套和防水鄉村獵裝,本季並不以中性的面貌出現,而在設計師巧妙的細節安排下,襯托出女性婀娜身姿。Christopher Bailey本季在Burberry以格子呢、法蘭絨與绗縫布料創作的多款,以俏麗蝴蝶結收腰,與豐滿的臀線剪裁相得益彰;Sarah Burton在McQ更是在硬派軍綠毛呢軍大衣上,用50年代的沙漏式剪裁變化出多款腰肢纖細的洋裝;機車服名廠Belstaff在本季的時尚處女秀中,也用自家的Roadmaster經典外套拼搭柔媚雪紡裙;Jonathan Saunders則用上粉藍、薰衣草等浪漫色調,介於大衣與裙裝間的元素,充滿想像空間。

經典男裝元素本季皆以女性線條呈現。(由左至右:Burberry Prorsum、Belstaff、McQ)

經典男裝元素本季皆以女性線條呈現。(由左至右:Burberry Prorsum、Belstaff、McQ)

Trend 5 T恤連帽衫也優雅
誰說帽T和防風夾克只能是休閒居家服?設計師紛紛發掘休閒打扮高貴的一面,讓休閒不再和邋遢畫上等號。上季竄紅的新秀Thomas Tait用他擅長的落肩結構,重新詮釋棒球外套,內搭天鵝絨運動褲,讓大學生的標準配備也多了份奢華;北歐品牌Acne將蓬鬆羽絨衣與高領毛衣結合束腰馬甲,使冬日保暖裝扮不再臃腫;Mulberry本季的皮毛外套,有著浴袍般的柔軟質感和溫馨色調;Christopher Raeburn和Roksanda Ilincic則用了羅紋束口運動外套,詮釋50年代經典收腰線條。««

休閒運動裝本季也可以很高雅。(由左至右:Roksanda Ilincic、Thomas Tait、Acne)

休閒運動裝本季也可以很高雅。(由左至右:Roksanda Ilincic、Thomas Tait、Acne)

»»Trend 1: Dazzling Prints
Known for its prints in recent years, London did not disappoint this week. Mary Katrantzou continued her mastery of digital printing, creating a whimsical world out of ordinary objects, Peter Pilotto also opted for a similar technique, but used machine motifs instead. Basso & Brooke took conventional prints, deconstructed and reconstructed them into something totally unseen of. Giles’ burnt prints combined with theme was truly a touch of genius while Christopher Kane’s moiré prints conveyed a somewhat sinister atmosphere.

Trend 2: Fluorescent Colors
Designers set off blasting colors in the cold London winter. House of Holland used contrasting colors on zigzag patterns, while Matthew Williamson and Holly Fulton chose to contrast hot pink and orange with tranquil turquoise. Moschino toned down the vividness a bit to created a cosmetics palette while Meadham Kirchhoff simply went wild in their nightclub scene, throwing every possible color into the mix.

Trend 3: Play with Peplum
Clean silhouettes are out this season, as designers unleashed peplums everywhere. Antonio Berardi’s peplums ranged from hard as armor to soft as a flower pedal while David Koma’s peplum gushed out like a magician’s trick. Burberry Prorsum’s skirts and coats have all seen a multitude of peplum whereas Nicole Farhi’s sequin beaded peplum became one of the eye-catchers of the week.

Trend 4: Menswear elements with a feminine cut
Christopher Bailey used pronounced lines on the country attire inspired collection, while Sarah Burton took a similar approach on her military inspired pieces. Belstaff took a twist on their iconic Roadmaster jacket, Jonathan Saunders employed crayon colors on his part coat, part dress creations.

Trend 5: Slumber in Luxury
Casual wear has never been chicer before as Thomas Tait sent out a baseball jacket with silhouettes ala Balenciaga. Acne also paired a chunky sweater up with corsets, while Mulberry made a hooded parka out of shearling. Christopher Kane and Roksanda Ilincic both used the varsity jacket as inspiration, mixing it up with a 50’s hourglass silhouette.««

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