倫敦2012秋冬女裝特別報導之二:糖果女孩送暖流 斯拉夫民族綺想
London FW2012 Women’s Collections: Plush & Russian


倫敦2012秋冬印花圖騰依舊不敗,但多了俏麗的糖果色選擇以及對異國民族的綺想。(左至右為Moschino Cheap And Chic、House of Holland、Temperley London)

倫敦2012秋冬印花圖騰依舊不敗,但多了俏麗的糖果色選擇以及對異國民族的綺想。(左至右為Moschino Cheap And Chic、House of Holland、Temperley London)

»»秋冬本就該裹著大衣披上皮草圍巾抗低溫,但倫敦時裝周上似乎沒有季節分別,反而因為繽紛璀璨的糖果色,變得活潑具有療癒成分,使人一點也不畏寒。Moschino Cheap And Chic以化妝為主題,在服裝面料印製關於彩妝的各式表現,搭配炫麗色彩,光耀奪目;House of Holland、Kinder Aggugini與Issa等除了對色彩的掌控外,更投入他們近期對於異國文化的想像;而Clements Ribeiro和Temperley London本季不約而同,對斯拉夫民族做出各自詮釋。另外Christopher Raeburn與Simone Rocha則運用他們擅長的布料創新運用手法,表現現代感濃厚的時裝,贏得不少青睞。

Moschino Cheap And Chic創意總監Rossella Jardini表示這季除了向英國文化致敬之外,希望Moschino Cheap And Chic女孩們可以如同女模身穿粉T上的標語般,為自己的人生添加色彩(Make up Your Life)。這次將伸展台從米蘭搬到倫敦,並將關於化妝的各種神韻包括粉嫩唇彩、眼妝以及各式各樣化妝品,全都轉印成布料圖騰,別於上季的水果印花風情。除此,襯托品牌甜美少女風格,用色幾近粉嫩俏麗,即使是蕾絲套裝,也採用多種鮮豔色澤拼接而成,同時揉合軍裝外套輪廓,注入一股剛毅氣息,讚頌青春無敵。

Moschino Cheap And Chic 2012秋冬以化妝品為印花主題。

Moschino Cheap And Chic 2012秋冬以化妝品為印花主題。

同樣也走俏麗印花路線的House of Holland,設計師Henry Holland則在多彩塊狀的世界中架構復古女性氛圍,不吝嗇地以大面積高彩度色塊做彎曲折線型體的拼接組合,更將千鳥格紋化做斑斕花樣,引人注目。Kinder Aggugini的繽紛印花則在後現代與牛仔風氣之間搖擺,設計師表示牛仔圖騰部分因緣始自今年夏天一趟德州之旅,另外18世紀古老的壁紙花紋也是他靈感之一,用作蕾絲晚服圖騰,當這兩類截然不同的花色變化,同出現在一套服裝時,隨即撞出視覺火花。

House of Holland(左一至二)以大片式色塊拼接和千鳥紋取勝,Kinder Aggugini(右一至二)的印花瀰漫一股牛仔風氣。

House of Holland(左一至二)以大片式色塊拼接和千鳥紋取勝,Kinder Aggugini(右一至二)的印花瀰漫一股牛仔風氣。

對於不同國度的旅行幻想自然是設計師靈感來源,這季亦有不少設計師提出了異國文化巡禮。Issa的女裝一路從莫斯科嬉遊至北京亞洲文化,好比西方設計師對於東方神獸「龍」的想像,或是日本和服輪廓的擷取,以及重新詮釋俄羅斯娃娃元素等,全都混搭在Issa 2012秋冬中,不過真正的設計核心為何,倒是有點讓霧裡看花,不知所措。相對以斯拉夫民族為繆思的Clements Ribeiro與Temperley London,各有各精湛一面。Clements Ribeiro混搭了巴洛克文化與斯拉夫民俗圖騰,並選擇配合色塊拼接,讓帶點波希米亞氛圍的女裝更具現代感;Temperley London則是將農工服、花卉刺繡珠飾、軍裝與皇室的精髓大集合,十足華麗意象。

Clements Ribeiro(左一)、Issa(左二)與Temperley London(右一右二)不約而同選擇異國文化為秋冬主題。

Clements Ribeiro(左一)、Issa(左二)與Temperley London(右一右二)不約而同選擇異國文化為秋冬主題。

別於異國綺想,擅長戶外休閒題材的Christopher Raeburn,也將女裝冠上拿手絕活,瀰漫休閒與軍裝元素,設計師Christopher Raeburn亦在本季推出配件系列,有趣的是其配件部分功能走可拆式設計,想必能滿足喜愛機能多一點的消費者需求。去年才為Topshop推出迷你聯名系列的Simone Rocha,發揮她對布料的創新運用,這季秋冬自由混搭起馬海(mohair)、銀色亮面皮革、蕾絲、軟呢和透明PVC材質,光是一件白色洋裝,Simone Rocha便能利用針織與PVC,創造白色的不同層次。Todd Lynn則受挪威藝術家Odd Nerdrum影響,著重線條的比例結構;Aquascutum的設計師Jo Syke為百年老牌賦予現代俐落特質,無論是當紅的繭型輪廓或是層次穿搭,Jo Syke皆巧妙運用,所呈現的現代氛圍令部分媒體有回到紐約時裝周的錯覺,為倫敦時裝周開闢另一條絲路。««

Aquascutum(左一)、Simone Rocha(左二)、Todd Lynn(右一)與Christopher Raeburn(右二)等各以擅長的現代手法詮釋秋冬女裝。

Aquascutum(左一)、Simone Rocha(左二)、Todd Lynn(右一)與Christopher Raeburn(右二)等各以擅長的現代手法詮釋秋冬女裝。

»»At Moschino Cheap and Chic Rosella Jardini took their slogan of the season “Make up Your Life” literally, turning lipstick, shades and eyeliners into colorful prints throughout the show. The overall palette was also in line with the pastel colors of springy makeup, the extensive lacing and military inspired jackets were no exception.

House of Holland, also known for its vivid prints, skillfully merged contrasting colors with a complex paneled cut, the play of colors on the houndstooth checks was another eye-catching feature. Kinder Aggugini took inspiration from his trip to Texas, as his collection swung widely between old school cowboy and 18th Century wallpaper. Aggugini was not alone on exoticism, Issa took hints from various culture ranging from China, Japan to Russia, whereas Clements Ribeiro and Temperley London were both inspired by the Siberian winter.

Known for his expertise on utilitarian design, Christopher Raeburn’s latest collection is no exception, while filled with military elements as usual, quirky details such as detachable accessories made it all the more versatile. Simone Rocha mixed and matched a wide range of materials including mohair, silvery leather, lace, tweed and PVC. Todd Lynn took notes from Norwegian artists Odd Nerdrum, whereas Jo Syke, new at Aquascutum, injected a touch of modernism into the traditional rainwear maker. ««

 

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