倫敦2013春夏女裝特別報導之五:從王宮奔向太空 花枝招展混搭到底
London SS2013 Women’s Collections: Mix-Matching from Past to Future


有太空時代的緬懷,也有早期宮廷韻味,編織出花不溜丟的繽紛視覺。(左至右為Mulberry、Meadham Kirchhoff、Thomas Tait)

有太空時代的緬懷,也有早期宮廷韻味,編織出花不溜丟的繽紛視覺。(左至右為Mulberry、Meadham Kirchhoff、Thomas Tait)

»»正當時尚編輯準備打包行李前往米蘭同時,代表著倫敦2013春夏女裝也進入尾聲,最終一天少了大牌撐場,顯得有些冷清,唯有Mulberry勉強撐起版面,Meadham Kirchhoff則是將米妮和維多利亞的宮廷風情混搭著裝,成為茶餘飯後的笑梗話題。

以皮件起家的Mulberry,2013春夏女裝台下貴賓比台上時裝精彩,Rebecca Hall、Kate Moss、Alexa Chung、Lana Del Rey 與 Olivia Palermo等超模明星紛紛出席,成會場另一鎂光燈焦點。創意總監Emma Hill表示Mulberry是甜美女孩的表徵,本季從復古懷舊著手布局浪漫紀事,16世紀的花卉圖騰造就春夏女裝印花,帶點東方風情的印花質感為甜美帶來一絲奢華,而為了少女情懷,在鈕扣扣飾部分,Emma Hill運用不少花朵造型裝飾,除此裹繞的靴款和高跟涼鞋伴隨復古印花設計,也是吸睛焦點。秀上,還有寵物配件系列與包款混搭成趣。

Mulberry 2013春夏印花靈感來自16世紀的壁紙。

Mulberry 2013春夏印花靈感來自16世紀的壁紙。

欣賞Meadham Kirchhoff的創作,心臟要夠力,而且要將系列一一拆解,才能品嘗到箇中巧思。設計師 Edward  Meadham與 Benjamin Kirchhoff在本系列即言明這是場童話寓言的成人版洗禮,教你看穿幸福童話故事背後的殘忍現實,有浪漫之處,自然也有警惕人心的作用。Meadham Kirchhoff說穿了,是將18世紀的內衣馬甲摻入維多利亞時代的時裝元素,同時不忘街頭時尚,甚至塑造出帶點法國瑪麗王后的華麗意象。時裝充斥著無數不成比例的緞帶蝴蝶結,刺繡水晶珠飾拼接著迪士尼米妮短T,蕾絲淑女帽與變形剪裁的偽襯衣造型洋裝,看似東拼西湊的線條結構,有點混搭過頭,若仔細追究細部構造,還是可看出細緻用心處。

Meadham Kirchhoff 2013春夏混搭宮廷與街頭風情。

Meadham Kirchhoff 2013春夏混搭宮廷與街頭風情。

別於宮廷與復古情懷,新銳Simone Rocha和Thomas Tait各自拿出他們對於科技未來的新想法。Simone Rocha喜歡將科技素材與織品交錯使用,締造簡潔有力的新女裝結構,本季也延續了2012秋冬的透明議題,祭出不少穿透概念,無論是洞洞裝,或是透明PVC與迷你裙的層層套疊,甚至是提包和女鞋鞋底都採用透明塑料材質打造。Simone Rocha還展現了不同質料在同等輪廓下的多種變化,即便稱不上前衛表率,但也為倫敦時裝注入一股清流。Thomas Tait則是回到60年代的太空時代,還記得當時火紅的Go-go Boots嗎?Thomas Tait的2013春夏重把Go-go Boots搬上檯面,冷色調的螢光科幻視覺對應上繭型輪廓,為太空議題另闢新徑。««

Simone Rocha(左與中)和Thomas Tait(右)對科技素材和未來太空,各有所好。

Simone Rocha(左與中)和Thomas Tait(右)對科技素材和未來太空,各有所好。

»»The last day of London Fashion Week is all for the little names. Mulberry has its own shine to keep up and lead London Fashion Week to its glamorous finale. With Rebecca Hall, Kate Moss, Alexa Chung, Lana Del Rey, and Olivia Palermo as the guest list at the front row, the spot lights have somehow focused on the supermodels instead of fashion during the show. Although the stars did took away some lights, Mulberry’s sweet theme along with romantic vintage style still glow our eyes back to the collection. With patterns and flowers, models turned to little girls and presented their collection with the candy feeling.

By having the inspiration from fairytales, Meadham Kirchhoff told us stories about realities behind the happy endings. Using corsets and street style as the main theme, Meadham Kirchhoff turned Disney’s Minnie to an exotic t-shirt with a lady hat. In addition of some new blood of fashion, Simone Rocha and Thomas Tait styled their collections into futurism and see-through ideas. With different curvature of the collections, the idea of Avant-Garde was reached along with touring the audiences through a mini space trip.««

 

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