倫敦2013春夏女裝特別報導之六:極簡純白崛起 仿生手工以假亂真
London SS2013 Women’s Collections Trend Report


純白與螢光色系本季交相爭輝。(由左至右:Daks、Matthew Williamson、Erdem)

純白與螢光色系本季交相爭輝。(由左至右:Daks、Matthew Williamson、Erdem)

»»在甫落幕的倫敦時裝周中,純白與自然色系打破五彩繽紛的刻板印象,與螢光印花間僵持不下,勢均力敵,雙方支持者均有精彩表現。以精緻手工為賣點的「半訂製」服裝,本季更進一步,師法大自然,模仿動植物肌理栩栩如生;而倫敦奧運掀起的運動熱潮也尚未退燒,成為最受設計師青睞的元素之一。

Trend 1 拒絕繁複 純白自然色崛起
對於倫敦繁多的色彩,不少設計師已開始感到疲勞,轉以純白與自然色系創作,並與清透紗質多層拼搭,在伸展台上吹起一股清新風潮。Christopher Kane在他的「科學怪人」系列中,便推出大量雪白造型,與鉚釘、電工膠帶等粗獷元素相映成趣;Temperley London本季以多套曳地白長裙與淡粉紫印花,詮釋摩爾式北非優雅;Maria Grachvogel也以極簡寬鬆剪裁,以純白搭配牡蠣、粉彩等自然色系,闡述「少即是多」概念。老牌Nicole Farhi以抓褶手法,將純白與膚色玩出豐富漸層,顯示薑還是老的辣;新設計師Sheila McKain-Waid上任第二季的Daks,也以淡雅色彩拼搭出淡雅新形象;而在Preen和Willow伸展台上,低彩度色系亦有精彩演出。

White Revolution
After long streaks of neon frenzy, white has seen a resurgence this season, making strong appearances in the shows of Christopher Kane, Temperley London, Maria Grachvogel, Nicole Farhi as well as Daks. The new wave of minimalism has been a freshening breeze on the color bombarded runways of London. 

本季純白從一片螢光色系中崛起。(由左至右:Maria Grachvogel、Nicole Farhi、Christopher Kane)

本季純白從一片螢光色系中崛起。(由左至右:Maria Grachvogel、Nicole Farhi、Christopher Kane)

Trend 2 渲染筆刷手法 霓虹亮彩不死
但倫敦亮彩的死忠簇擁,也並未就此偃旗息鼓。相對於前幾季照片式的鮮麗色調,本季設計師從畫家調色盤上偷師色彩渲染技法,探索漸層的無限可能。在Burberry,Christopher Bailey誓言繼續用色彩散播歡愉,從桃紅到洋紅、土耳其綠到草綠的微妙色彩變化,與珠光皮革交相爭輝;Matthew Williamson本季在緞子與雪紡紗上,印染出火燒雲般效果;而 Jonathan Saunders也運用亮面皮革,製造肥皂泡般的干涉虹彩。Vivienne Westwood Red Label多套油彩筆刷裙裝,與Julien MacDonald花瓣般綻放的漸層裙襬,令人眼前一亮;而巴西品牌Issa,更讓南美雨林中爭奇鬥艷的物種攻陷伸展台。

Gradient Neon
The white upheaval however does not mean the end of neon colors. Labels including Burberry, Christopher Bailey, Jonathan Saunders, Julien McDonald and Issa have mimicked watercolor brushstrokes for a gradient effect, for a natural effect akin to flower petals and sunsets.

霓虹色系本季渲染技法呈現。(由左至右:Burberry、Matthew Williamson、Vivienne Westwood Red Label)

霓虹色系本季渲染技法呈現。(由左至右:Burberry、Matthew Williamson、Vivienne Westwood Red Label)

Trend 3 半訂製當道 有機手工栩栩如生
「半訂製」概念當道,在服裝價格節節攀升的同時,綴飾也日漸精緻,而本季各種手工技法更師法自然,向仿生路線邁進。Giles以碎玻璃與飛馬為主題的系列,除了以雷射切割爆裂圖樣之外,轉化而成的「水母」造型,在細褶雪紡紗與亮片綴織下,更是栩栩如生。以手工模仿動物皮革,本季也備受青睞,Erdem在蛇皮與花卉蕾絲間,完成無縫銜接;Sass & Bide細密亮片綴飾,使模特兒化身白蛇;而Preen也以蕾絲鏤刻出珍稀皮革的紋理。此外,Marios Schwab也以蜂巢為概念,作為本季蕾絲的骨幹;而Burberry在風衣上繡出羽毛紋理,亦是點睛之筆。

Organic Demi-Couture
The continuous trend of demi-couture techniques such as extensive beading and lacing has taken an extra step toward verisimilitude, taking forms of shattered glass, exotic leathers as well as feathers on the runways of Giles, Burberry, Erdem and Sass & Bide.

本季手工技法大量模仿生物肌理。(由左至右:Erdem、Giles、Burberry)

本季手工技法大量模仿生物肌理。(由左至右:Erdem、Giles、Burberry)

Trend 4 各國靈感大熔爐 民族風真假莫辨
在眾多印花間,「偽民族風」可謂本季伸展台上一大奇觀,乍看之下源自某少數民族藝術的印花,實為設計師混搭繁雜元素所造成的錯覺。Mary Katrantzou本季以郵票、鈔票為主軸的系列,就利用鋸齒邊的巧妙排列,變化出猶如中亞傳統織品花紋,搭配各國郵局印行的圖紋,幾可亂真;Peter Pilotto今年頗具俄羅斯風味的織紋,同是十數種靈感交互作用的結果。另一方面,設計師中也不乏認真研究風土民情者,如Matthew Williamson本季繁多的菱格圖案,就是貨真價實印藏邊界出品;而Temperley London本季淡雅靛藍印花,亦是如假包換的摩洛哥圖紋;不過要分出兩者真偽,若非藝術史學家恐怕是力所難及。

Ethnic Prints: True or False?
There are two types of ethnic prints this season, one genuine and the other, not so much. While Matthew Williamson and Temperley London did in fact take cues from old Tibetan and Moroccan masters, the Central Asian patterns of Mary Katrantzou and Petter Pilotto were in fact illusions caused by a mash-up of dozens of different inspirations.

本季民族風真假難辨。(由左至右:Mary Katrantzou、Peter Pilotto、Matthew Williamson)

本季民族風真假難辨。(由左至右:Mary Katrantzou、Peter Pilotto、Matthew Williamson)

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