倫敦2013秋冬女裝特別報導之二:趣味針織賞心悅目 立體剪裁有個性
London FW 2013 Women's Collections: Wools and Patterns Storm the Catwalks


秋冬伸展台上高領、針織圍巾、皮草,穿得巧也穿得暖。(由左至右:Issa、Sister by Sibling、Moschino Cheap & Chic)

秋冬伸展台上高領、針織圍巾、皮草,穿得巧也穿得暖。(由左至右:Issa、Sister by Sibling、Moschino Cheap & Chic)

»»倫敦伸展台上「可遠觀不可褻玩焉」的奇想設計不若往日豐富,設計師們順應民情與潮流,點出棒球夾克、高領內搭及針織等容易入手的重點單品,讓大家即使阮囊羞澀,也可參考穿搭技巧,配出具有巧思的新造型。

本季倫敦女裝依舊受到中性風格影響,範圍擴大至西裝款的變形剪裁以及棒球夾克的加入,讓女人穿扮男裝有更多變化。Christopher Raeburn、Moschino Cheap & Chic、Antipodium、House of Holland等品牌不約而同地推出棒球夾克,設計、材質各出新招,有絲滑緞面、蕾絲花紋,還有毛絨、領飾的點綴,無論配上裙裝或是褲裝,都各有看頭,簡直預示了秋冬棒球夾克人手一件的盛況。

眾設計師有志一同推出棒球夾克,於材質、綴飾變化上皆有新意。(由左至右:Christopher Raeburn、Antipodium 、House of Holland)

眾設計師有志一同推出棒球夾克,於材質、綴飾變化上皆有新意。(由左至右:Christopher Raeburn、Antipodium 、House of Holland)

2013年秋冬中性西裝款仍盛行,但有別於2012年幾乎到男裝女穿的程度,本季則增添不少女性氣息。Moschino Cheap & Chic的半西裝洋裙,還有綴滿絨毛的粉紅色全套西裝,都讓原本展現氣勢的筆挺西裝,變成可愛的討喜裝扮。以裁縫技術見長的聖馬丁高材生Todd Lynn,將西裝截去長袖、加長下襬、收束腰部線條,不僅保有西裝的強勢,更增添妖嬈韻味。

Moschino Cheap & Chic(左、中)以粉紅色系西裝展現甜美風韻,Todd Lynn(右)斷袖細腰版式背心突顯女人味。

Moschino Cheap & Chic(左、中)以粉紅色系西裝展現甜美風韻,Todd Lynn(右)斷袖細腰版式背心突顯女人味。

伸展台上的高領設計各有千秋,格紋品牌Daks除了帶來玫瑰印花的格紋新款和雙領片夾克設計,也露了一手高領搭配技巧。單色高領配上具結構剪裁的上衣或是特殊材質的背心,增加趣味感;印花高領則以素色西裝外套平衡,收成畫龍點睛之效。本季由超模Cara Delevingne領軍、散發波西米亞風格的Issa,則以各式輕柔飄逸的印花圖騰,纏裹或貼身或寬鬆的高領上衣,並預言了薑黃及酒紅等大地色系的漲勢。David Koma的前衛式立體剪裁也不遑多讓,搭配著高領與項圈設計,顯得個性十足。

David Koma(左)幾何拼接剪裁吸睛;Issa(中、右)的單色高領搭配圖騰雪紡裙。

David Koma(左)幾何拼接剪裁吸睛;Issa(中、右)的單色高領搭配圖騰雪紡裙。

針織手法在不同的設計師演繹下,粗細針織混搭出令人耳目一新的效果。以針織為女裝添加活力開朗氣息的Sister by Sibling,以已故英國名媛Paula Yates的後後龐克(post-post-punk)造型為設計主軸,以粗細針織打造粗織貝雷帽和披肩的溫暖,和細織兩件式套裝的細膩,再融合一點點的瘋狂精神,就是2013秋冬的針織主張。另外,遠看乍似與印花無異的短衫,實則以針織勾勒立體花卉造型,像是3D水彩畫般,驚艷度頗高。John Rocha延續春夏的活潑苞裙設計,除了紗絲堆疊的造型,在秋冬更利用針織圍網罩住朵朵花苞,以幾何和不規則圖形織出冬日的美麗風采。««

Sister by Sibling(左、中)運用粗細針織手法,把玩出既優雅又瘋狂的秋冬溫暖造型;John Rocha(右)以不規則針織打造柔美形象。

Sister by Sibling(左、中)運用粗細針織手法,把玩出既優雅又瘋狂的秋冬溫暖造型;John Rocha(右)以不規則針織打造柔美形象。

»»Although the history of catwalks in fashion might have proven that fashion belongs to spot lights, stage, red carpets, and catwalks, the rise of fashion application with practical arrangement are taking over today’s London FW 2013 women’s collections.

The unisexualism is still a huge point of the day. With Christopher Raeburn, Moschino Cheap And Chic, Antipodium, and House of Holland favor baseball blazers and  suits, we see more powers emerged from women fashion. While Moschino Cheap And Chic combined dress with the suit, the colorful palette helps to point out the sense of women under the design of unisexualism. Todd Lynn, on the other hand, cut down the long sleeves of suits, adding a tight waist line, London’s 2013 FW women are powerful, but feminist.

On the designs of collars, Daks’ rose patterns give a wit hit of fashion. With patterns are still favor by the designers, Issa’s Bohemian patterns also is the eye catcher of the day.

For wool is also the point of the day, Sister by Sibling’s post-post-punk style and John Rocha’s bright vivacious design collage with colorful palette can definitely bring out the cuteness of London’s autumn.««

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