倫敦2013秋冬女裝特別報導3:中性瀟灑 vs. 性感甜美
London FW 2013 Women’s Collections: The Modern Outfits for Day and Night


女人當男人用,已非最近的事,但倫敦2013秋冬發表明顯男裝女穿漸熾,猶如助長該風氣。(左至右為Richard Nicoll、Paul Smith、Vivienne Westwood Red Label)

女人當男人用,已非最近的事,但倫敦2013秋冬發表明顯男裝女穿漸熾,猶如助長該風氣。(左至右為Richard Nicoll、Paul Smith、Vivienne Westwood Red Label)

»»當女人會不會很麻煩?要當稱職的媽,又要做到上司點頭稱許的上班OL,還得時時讓自己保持美麗最佳狀態,拋棄魚干女生活,這樣看下來,行頭不準備多點是不行,正好倫敦2013秋冬女裝五花八門,要什麼有什麼,從偷穿男人西裝到晚間飛奔夜店狂野辣妹,甚至乖巧清純校園妹,統統準備好。

除了褲子,還是褲子,倫敦2013秋冬女裝擺明了是褲裝天下,大量西裝OL款式佔據焦點。光Paul Smith不折不扣、鬆垮卻有型的男兒裝,讓事業家庭蠟燭兩頭燒的現代女性化身金剛不壞之花木蘭,連復古老爺褲也派上場,唯獨用搶眼橘與桃紅宣示潛藏的女性因子。Richard Nicoll更是開場獻上中性打扮,從連身工作服到西裝大衣應有盡有;Vivienne Westwood Red Label女模雖然撲白粉畫七彩眉,不改瘋狂本性,再度將經典性手槍樂團搬上舞台,用龐克混搭中性,用時尚反訴現況。反觀Temperley London,懂得為女人拿捏優雅,將西裝背心元素融入晚服,以纖細腰身言明女人的柔情似水。

穿西裝似乎成了今年秋冬必備經典。(左至右為Paul Smith、Vivienne Westwood Red Label、Temperley London)

穿西裝似乎成了今年秋冬必備經典。(左至右為Paul Smith、Vivienne Westwood Red Label、Temperley London)

想表現女人強勢魄力,有類男性西裝還不夠,披風與長版大衣是另一推薦選擇。這季有不少設計師推出長版大衣,舉凡Topshop Unique、Vivienne Westwood Red Label、Matthew Williamson與Paul Smith皆有類似款式,無論著重大翻領刷毛染色處理或印花取材,滿足多變女人心,要陽剛也得顧足花俏本性。但若想向經典電視劇「朝代」看齊,L’Wren Scott鑲金包銀的華麗氛圍過之而無不及,加長版的披風型外套因Gustav Klimt的「黃金畫作」(Adele Bloch-Bauer)印花顯得蓬蓽生輝,很有華爾街女強人風範。Marios Schwab的長版外套雖沒有L’Wren Scott奢華強勢,不過隱約流露神秘符碼,也別有一番風情。

Marios Schwab(左起)、Paul Smith與L'Wren Scott皆有長版大衣之作,但因各自品牌特色,各有不同風情演出。

Marios Schwab(左起)、Paul Smith與L'Wren Scott皆有長版大衣之作,但因各自品牌特色,各有不同風情演出。

雖說女強人潮流一面倒,別忘了清新可愛的小女孩也有不少支持粉絲;Mulberry大以愛麗絲夢遊仙境為題,然而抽掉電影誇張浮華想像,回歸純樸奔放思維,軟呢織紋拼接繁複印花與皮革,洋娃娃裝基本剪裁,上演青春夢。而用格紋彰顯清新氣質是最適合也不過,Emilia Wickstead本著英式經典,在2013秋冬採用大量格紋,布局婉約女人心。Preen倒有不同見解,選擇異材質拼接以及前後版型剪裁的視覺差異法,使得女裝格外有看頭,半甜美半性格,詮釋女性多變特質。

Mulberry(左起)、Preen與Emilia Wickstead表現出女孩清新甜美質感。

Mulberry(左起)、Preen與Emilia Wickstead表現出女孩清新甜美質感。

上班OL、清新療癒系花招盡出同時,夜晚生活也正精彩,Mark Fast的性感針織絕對令你當上Friday Night女神榜首,Preen也不惶多讓,深諳夜店裝必備皮革、透視元素,全把它加總融合,造就性感「裸」裝。Jonathan Saunders則搖擺於半透視的蕾絲效果與馬甲束腰造型,締造不少情趣;Holly Fulton雖以幾何印花亮相本季,不過引人印象深刻的還是那叢林記號,老虎圖騰栩栩如生的矗立眼前。如果說Jonathan Saunders是熟女的夜店裝束,那麼Holly Fulton的老虎頭是年輕草莓族的菜,還想更華麗,推薦給美魔女等級的,不妨試試L’Wren Scott奢華黃金裝。

Preen(左起)、Jonathan Saunders與Holly Fulton,不管是透視皮革勁裝,或俏皮辣妹,都有不少粉絲相挺。

Preen(左起)、Jonathan Saunders與Holly Fulton,不管是透視皮革勁裝,或俏皮辣妹,都有不少粉絲相挺。

歌手Rihanna也站上倫敦時裝周版面,為River Island提供創意靈感,系列時裝可說是滿溢著Rihanna個人色彩,儼然從其舞台裝到私下生活打扮的另一翻版。帶點襯衣與運動時尚氛圍,混搭丹寧舒適衣裝,想必有不少人會衝其名買單,至於設計是否夠格,又是另一回事。女人總是想要更多,也願意嘗鮮,Mary Katrantzou的3D印花遊走實景與超現實之間,總給人耳目一新的新震撼,想穿它出門,就怕太招搖。不過這季Mary Katrantzou於立體剪裁中找到實穿方向,揉取和服繫綁概念,無論整套或只選部分配件穿搭,都會是新體驗。女裝變化多端,難怪衣櫃裡總少一件衣服。««

Rihanna(左圖左)為River Island 2013秋冬(中)獻策;Mary Katrantzou不啻原本印花精髓,但卻更加實穿(右)。

Rihanna(左圖左)為River Island 2013秋冬(中)獻策;Mary Katrantzou不啻原本印花精髓,但卻更加實穿(右)。

»»What are the “must have” pieces for 2013 FW season? Trousers. For 2013 London’s fashion week is full with suits, Paul Smith’s male suit design, Ricahrd Nicoll’s neutral gender overalls, Vivienne Westwood Red Label’s neutral gender punk, and Temperley London’s vest piece are all hinting “trousers” are the item of 2013 FW season.

In addition to the trousers and suits, coat and trenches is another option of powerful women. With Topshop Unique, Vivienne Westwood Red Label, Matthew Williamson, and Paul Smith all carry the similar designs, there are brands like L’Wren Scott mused from the drama Dynasty and Gustav Klimt’s “Adele Bloch-Bauer” and Marios Schwab’s coats that full with mystery.

Although there are many powerful women on the catwalk, the cute and neighbor girls are still favored by fashion. Mulberry’s “Alice in Wonderland” collection, Emilia Wickstead’s classical England collection, and Preen’s mix-matched material collections are all proven that men still love women with element of young, energetic, and cuteness.

Aside from the day life, the night life of women is also colorful. Mark Fast’s wool sexiness can definitely makes women to the queens of Friday Night. Preen’s transparent elements fused with leather express a heavy sexiness through the collection while Jonathan Saunders favor lace and corsets. Holly Fulton’s geometric pattern is fit for the younger generations while L’Wren Scott’s glorious golden collection can definitely fit for women appeared in Sex and the City.

Rihanna’s River Island is definitely “very Rihanna”. Through the sporty fashion collage with denim, there must be many of her fans waiting to buy the new collection. Mary Katrantzou’s 3D pattern still shock while the brand give it a new try on finding applications through their over conspicuous design.««

 

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