可拆式領子 起死回生掀風潮
Detachable Collars: From Stiff to Chic


2012春夏可拆式領子的樣式繁多。

2012春夏可拆式領子的樣式繁多。

»»美國家庭主婦Hannah Montague,在19世紀初肯定沒想到,她因為懶惰而發明的可拆卸式領子,直到近200年後還能興起熱潮。在1827年,美國密西根州特的小城洛伊市,Hannah Montague因為嫌清洗丈夫的襯衫太麻煩,索性把最容易髒的領子拆掉後重新縫上領台,以便少洗幾次衣服;鄰居Ebenezer Brown很快就發現商機,立刻開始生產這項「懶人產品」,不料大受歡迎,僅僅7年後就在紐約成立公司。

20世紀初期,美國Sears百貨的可拆式領子廣告。

20世紀初期,美國Sears百貨的可拆式領子廣告。

與此同時,大家發現可拆式領子可以漿洗得更加漂亮,搭配禮服更顯挺拔,就此成為正式穿著的良伴;公司也陸續推出可拆式的袖口甚至是前片,用來固定的金屬飾釦更是花樣繁多。到了20世紀初期,可拆領子在特洛伊市的已經成長為養活15萬人的產業,遠銷全美和歐洲各國。但往事已矣,如今除了猛男秀和兔女郎外,恐怕只有「老佛爺」Karl Lagerfeld願意這樣束縛自己的頸部了。

Karl Lagerfeld最新系列Karl中,模特兒全部戴上皮製領子。

Karl Lagerfeld最新系列Karl中,模特兒全部戴上皮製領子。

但自Miu Miu在2010年春季首開先例,可拆式領子逐漸回溫,2012春夏更極盡各種變化,搖身一變成為最實搭的俏麗配件。身為可拆式領子最佳代言人的Karl Lagerfeld,在設計中也實踐了自己的喜好,在最新推出的Karl系列中,以清一色皮質領片示人,同時也推出花俏亮片款;在Chanel 2012早秋系列中,「老佛爺」則以毛皮領子搭配珍珠飾釦,讓領子從僵硬冰冷變為奢華溫暖。

亮片領絕對是Marni x H&M系列中最搶眼的配件。

亮片領絕對是Marni x H&M系列中最搶眼的配件。

Emporio Armani春夏季秀場也以可拆式領子挑起配件大樑,以鏤空設計,僅留下漆光外框輪廓,與現代感十足的look相得益彰。Sonia by Sonia Rykiel和Marni本季則換上螢光粉彩與水果色調的各式可拆領子,與品牌的甜美女孩形象相當合拍。快速時尚在春夏季更是擁抱可拆式風潮,Marni為H&M推出的系列中,亮片與大翻領的組合相當搶眼;倫敦平價品牌ASOS本季更推出一系列維多利亞式蕾絲領片,為任何look增添經典風格。紐約新秀品牌Eleven Objects,則用刺眼螢光黃、豹紋印花和鉚釘鑲嵌,為領子染上叛逆氣息。

從典雅到叛逆,可拆式領子選擇繁多。(上排:ASOS,下排:Eleven Objects)

從典雅到叛逆,可拆式領子選擇繁多。(上排:ASOS,下排:Eleven Objects)

除了從服裝中衍生元素外,以可拆式領子為靈感的配飾也在本季綻放光芒,Fendi第四代傳人Delfina Delettrez的同名珠寶品牌,就以純銀與真珠打造領子造型項鍊,但要價逾2800美金(約8萬3千台幣),可謂本季假領之冠;紐約新銳飾品品牌Dannijo則採不鏽鋼打造,領尖的銳利造形,似乎也能在危急時化身暗器。

以領子為靈感的珠寶也是2012春夏焦點。(Delfina Delettrez(左一至二)、Dannijo(右))

以領子為靈感的珠寶也是2012春夏焦點。(Delfina Delettrez(左一至二)、Dannijo(右))

在2012秋冬秀場上,Victoria Beckham和Derek Lam也繼續沿用可拆式領子與袖口元素,看來這股從陳舊傳統中回收的新風潮,仍會再延續一段時間。««

Victoria Beckham(左)和Derek Lam(右)在2012秋冬沿用可拆式領子袖口元素。

Victoria Beckham(左)和Derek Lam(右)在2012秋冬沿用可拆式領子袖口元素。

»»Hannah Montague, inventor of the detachable collar would not have thought that her creation out of convenience would cause such a trend nearly 2 centuries later. The collar did not only become a regular of formal men’s attire, lead to a range of derivative products such as detachable cuffs, fronts and collar studs, but jumpstarted an entire industry in Mrs. Montague’s Hometown, Troy, Michigan.

Nowadays, as the formal attire declined, the detachable collar seems to be reserved to male strippers, Playboy playmates and Kaiser Karl only. However, since Miu Miu announced the collars comeback in its spring summer 2010 collection, its popularity has been steadily climbing.

This spring, Karl Lagerfeld seized the opportunity to launch a series of collars for his Karl line, as well as his pre-fall Chanel collection. Emporio Armani used a minimalistic version of the collar, stripped to the edges, to compliment its modern collection, while Sonia by Sonia Rykiel and Marni alsoreleased collars in bright hues.

Fast Fashion brands are another group to embrace the trend. A oversized sequin collar has been one of the highlights of the latest Marni x H&M collection, London based ASOS also came up with a range of Victorian inspired collars, while upcoming New York brand Eleven Objects made their own heavy studded, punk influenced version.

Jewelry brands also used detachable collars as influence this season, Delfina Delettrez, Jewelry designer and a 4th generation Fendi, has released sterling and pearly collars at ₤2,800, along with cotton ones at less hefty prices. New York label Dannijo on the other hand turned the collars into capable weapons by molding it with stainless steel.

The trend seemed to have extended all the way into the winter season, since Victoria Beckham and Derek Lam each continued to use detachable collars as a tongue in cheek trick in their collections.««

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