告別性感 泳裝回歸優雅
Elegance is Back in Swimwear


Grace Kelly讓泳裝充滿優雅魅力。

Grace Kelly讓泳裝充滿優雅魅力。

»»1964年,奧裔美籍設計師Rudi Gernreich發明了只有泳褲與背帶,裸露上半身的Monokini,把泳裝布料精簡推展到了極限,自此之後,僅僅用來遮住三點的布片漸成海灘上的主流,只要底下的肉體身形姣好,皮膚細緻,泳裝的款式、布料和花紋似乎已是次要。但2012年春夏經典女性風格發燒,今年的海灘似乎也回到上世紀中,Grace Kelly和Audrey Hepburn以優雅泳裝身姿征服大銀幕的時代。

Marc by Marc Jacobs 2012春夏泳裝帶有許多令人玩味的小細節。

Marc by Marc Jacobs 2012春夏泳裝帶有許多令人玩味的小細節。

在50年代以前,游泳項活動在女性之間其實並不風行,大多數人在海灘上都只會走到水深及膝的地方,嬉戲一番就了事。也因此當時並沒有「泳裝」(Swimwear)一說,而以「浴衣」(Bathing Suit)稱呼,設計則經常帶有洋裝的元素,從遮蓋大腿的裙襬、滾邊到蕾絲不一而足;在20年代之前,甚至還要穿著長襪來遮住雙腿,以免有「傷風敗俗」之嫌。

Marc by Marc Jacobs本季在鮮豔條紋泳裝上使用扣子、並且添加了翻領和小裙襬等復古元素;Jean Paul Gaultier在為義大利內衣品牌La Perla操刀的系列中,也推出垂墜領口的款式,而DKNY本季泳裝也都搭上俏麗短裙,為泳裝找回像「服裝」的一面。

從垂墜到龐克金屬,Jean Paul Gaultier設計的La Perla泳裝服裝元素豐富。

從垂墜到龐克金屬,Jean Paul Gaultier設計的La Perla泳裝服裝元素豐富。

當年泳裝不若今日曲線畢露,除了社會風氣之外,布料也是一大原因。如今讓泳裝得以貼合身形的Spandex彈性纖維,一直到1959年才由杜邦公司開發,在這之前泳裝一直是用一般的針織布料製做,材質可以是清爽的棉麻,甚至是厚重的羊毛。這樣的布料在瑪麗蓮夢露或是Jayne Mansfield等肉感女星身上,常常因拉扯而產生橫紋,本季也做為設計元素屢屢出現在伸展台上。

橫向皺褶是經典泳裝不可或缺的小細節。(左:瑪麗蓮夢露1949年攝 右:紐約設計師Nanette Lepore)

橫向皺褶是經典泳裝不可或缺的小細節。(左:瑪麗蓮夢露1949年攝 右:紐約設計師Nanette Lepore)

除了可以玩味更多細節外,高腰泳裝也確有修飾身材的效果。40、50年代的泳裝廠商,有不少都由凋零的束腰(Corset)業轉行而來,因此對泳裝的束身功能也分外重視,在腰部採用緊窄剪裁,再加上可束緊的腰帶,讓小腹沒有走光的危險。Michael Kors春夏系列中的泳裝就以此為靈感,但把腰帶換成軍用皮帶,搭配羅馬涼鞋,展現泳裝難得的陽剛氣息;吳季剛(Jason Wu)本季一襲灰階花瓣印花兩截式泳裝,露出小小一截纖腰,更顯身材曼妙。

經典泳裝設計兼具修飾身型效果。(左一至二:Michael Kors 右:吳季剛)

經典泳裝設計兼具修飾身型效果。(左一至二:Michael Kors 右:吳季剛)

跳脫50年代泳裝素色與條紋等簡單花樣,Donna Karen、王大仁(Alexander Wang)和Herve Leger皆採用混合部落圖騰和Art Deco幾何線條的印花與鏤空,為經典泳裝增添姿色;紐約設計師Peter Som的迷你斑馬圖紋充滿天真趣味;Tommy Hilfiger則採用了60年代的鮮艷色塊搭配霓虹迷彩,在海灘上搶盡鋒頭;本季的在回首過去尋找靈感之餘,絕不墨守成規。««

本季泳裝雖然剪裁師法上世紀中,印花卻是爭奇鬥豔。(左:Donna Karen 中:Tommy Hilfiger 右:Peter Som)

本季泳裝雖然剪裁師法上世紀中,印花卻是爭奇鬥豔。(左:Donna Karen 中:Tommy Hilfiger 右:Peter Som)

»»Ever since Rudi Gernreich came up with the monokini in 1964, it seems that he body has taken center stage on the beach, whereas the swimsuit has retreated to merely pieces of cloth covering the vital parts. This spring however, with the upsurge of classic 50s style, more variation in swimwear has seen a comeback.

In the first half of last century, when swimming was not yet a popular pastime among women, the term “bathing suit” was often used in lieu of “swimwear”. Beachwear those days often was midway between swimwear and a dress, featuring thigh-length skirts, lace and even stockings in earlier days, when the exposure of legs was considered obscene. These little details were given a tweak by designers such as Marc Jacobs, Jean Paul Gaultier and DKNY who added hints of regular garments to their swimwear designs.

Prior to the development of Spandex by Du Pont in 1959, bathing suits were mainly made of regular knitted fabrics, which meant that they could not be as form fitting as modern swimwear. This type of fabrics also often created “ruffles” on bombshell body types such as the iconic Marilyn Monroe and Jayne Mansfield, which also proved to be a prominent element this season.

The high waited cuts of classic swimwear also served a practical purpose. As many of the bathing suit manufacturers of the 40s and 50s came from the shrinking corset industry, a flattering figure was of utmost importance to them. This led to designs such as tightly cut waists and even adjustable belts. Michael Kors took notes of this, substituting the belt with a military belt for some added flare, whereas Jason Wu also created form flattering figures out of the high waisted cut.««

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