客製手工鞋 掀起一股風潮
Beyond the Standard Oxfords


Gaziano Girling是英國客製化手工鞋的頂級品牌之一。

Gaziano Girling是英國客製化手工鞋的頂級品牌之一。

»»「楦型很好看,但是可以加上雕花嗎?」、「底可以換成皮底嗎?」、「有黑色、棕色之外的選擇嗎?」要選一雙好看的皮鞋,真的不容易,有限的款式和保守的顏色,讓對鞋有堅持的男生每每鎩羽而歸。客製皮鞋向來是頂級品牌才有的服務,不論是英國的Edward Green,或是系出同門的Gaziano Girling,客制價格都由台幣4萬5千起跳;名氣更大的John Lobb的客製服務更動輒10萬元以上。但當「Dress Up」已成為男鞋新趨勢,許多同樣出自英國北安普頓(Northampton)的品牌也加入戰局,讓客製化男鞋的價格不再那麼高不可攀。  

不論多麼瘋狂的配色,Tricker’s的客製化服務都可以實現。

不論多麼瘋狂的配色,Tricker’s的客製化服務都可以實現。

曾多次與Yohji Yamamoto和Junya Watanabe等設計師品牌合作,擁有英國皇家認證的皮靴品牌Trickers,就決定讓所有的顧客都能享受明星設計師的待遇。Trickers的客製化服務提供包括小牛皮、荔枝皮、麂皮、帆布乃至馬臀皮等66種選擇,整雙靴子上的每一塊皮都可以自由拼搭,連內裡都可以自選顏色,鞋底更有各種橡膠底與皮底的組合,不論是晴天雨天都無往不利。至於價格則從430英鎊起跳(稅前,非歐盟國免稅 ,合約台幣2萬),比起明星設計款和頂級客製都「親民」不少。

Alfred Sargent顧客自己設計的創意鞋款。

Alfred Sargent顧客自己設計的創意鞋款。

近年來工藝突飛猛進的百年老廠Alfred Sargent,也推出了類似的服務,除了多樣的皮料選擇,更有從圓頭、方頭到尖頭等多達14種楦型;至於英國鞋經典的雕花,有數十年經驗的師傅也可以做出任何你畫得出的圖案。在接受Gaziano Girling團隊指導後,Alfred Sargent更推出使用罕見工藝Fiddle Waist(提琴鞋底)的Handgrade系列,要和頂級品牌一較高下。

英國北安普頓的製鞋師傅。

英國北安普頓的製鞋師傅。

若是想要更特殊的皮料選擇,倫敦品牌Oliver Sweeney近期推出了類似Nike iD的客製iPhone App,除了各色小牛皮之外,更有蜥蜴、魔鬼魚、鴕鳥和鱷魚等珍稀皮革,視皮料使用,價格由台幣1萬8千到4萬2千台幣不等,為鞋款的設計開啟無限可能。由夫妻檔Tim和Fiona創立的品牌T&F Slacks的客製選項則更加實惠,有40種皮料選擇的Derby鞋款,只要約台幣1萬就可擁有,在倫敦的Selfridges和Liberty百貨都有銷售。««

 

 

英國訂製鞋指南

Alfred Sargent
網址:http://alfredsargent.co.uk/
電話:+44 (0) 1933 312065
Exclusive等級1萬8台幣起,Handgrade系列3萬6千台幣起。

Trickers 訂製
經銷商The Shoe Healer
網址:https://www.shoehealer.co.uk/
電話:+44 (0) 130 2329965
亦提供Alfred Sargent定製。

Oliver Sweeney
網址:https://www.oliversweeney.com/contact-us.html
電話:+ 44(0)800 622 6030
除鞋款之外,也有英倫傳統服裝與配件。 

T&F Slacks
網址:http://tandfslackshoemakers.com/index.html
電話:+44 (0)208 969 9100
目前在香港銅鑼灣IT也有銷售。

 

 

With the recent “dress up” trend in men’s shoes in mind, a number of traditional British shoe makers have entered the Made-to-Order (MTO) market, one previously dominated by top tier makers such as Edward Green, John Lobb and Gaziano Girling, offering choices other than the standard Oxford and Derby cuts and black and brown calf leathers.

Northampton maker Tricker’s has offered through its dealer an MTO program. Starting from £430, it features 66 choices of leathers including calf, scotch grain, suede and shell cordovan, along with numerous variation of the sole. Alfred Sargent, also based in Northampton offers similar programs, which in addition to choice of leather and style, includes high-end options such as an exquisite fiddle waist. Their “Exclusive” range start at £400 while the fiddle waisted “Handgrades” go up from £770.

London brand Oliver Sweeney has recently released a MTO shoes iPhone app, on which customers can spontaneously see their own designs. The program also includes exotic leathers such as iguana, stingray, ostrich and alligator at higher price points.

For those who are not ready to drop big bucks, shoe design veterans Tim and Fiona have started a shoe making business T&F slacks, which is now available at Selfridges and Liberty, as well as their own shop in Notting Hill, from £235.

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