巴黎2013春夏女裝特別報導之二:哥德闇黑世紀 vs. 回到青春未來
Paris SS2013 Women’s Collections: Leathers Conquered the Runways


硬挺素材成為今日主角。(左至右為Mugler、Gareth Pugh、Nicolas Andreas Taralis)

硬挺素材成為今日主角。(左至右為Mugler、Gareth Pugh、Nicolas Andreas Taralis)

»»時裝週如火如荼舉行,設計師幫觀眾大洗腦,從浪漫性感的米蘭穿梭到前衛兼具未來感十足的巴黎,Mugler等品牌紛紛玩起復古未來風,彷彿把60至70年代科幻片裡的衣裝大改造了一番,素材選擇的改變也是今日一大重點之一。

Mugler於時裝週隆重推出以Lady Gaga為靈感的首款包飾,在2013春夏女裝一如往常走向奇異造型。少了雪紡與絲質等透氣材質,今季Mugler大量使用亮皮及小牛皮為主要素材,刻劃出濃厚科技感。運用如紙雕般的剪裁勾勒出明顯女性線條,噴漆亮面效果和極簡的設計更是讓系列衣裝不時流露出前衛的自信美。而質料方面,雖然捨棄蟒蛇或豹紋,Mugler大膽運用東西融合的獅子剪影,帶出更勝前面兩者的野性美。設計師Sebastien Peigne在今季系列女裝上雖保持了Theirry Mugler原有的設計方向,但明顯比以往短上許多的短裙,加上略帶空氣感的立體抓褶處理,被評論家認為相較前季有了些許突破,讓人更想穿上Mugler系列設計。

Mugler善用小牛皮材質,打造未來女裝系列。

Mugler善用小牛皮材質,打造未來女裝系列。

喜歡哥德怪異風格的Gareth Pugh今年一貫走闇黑路線,設計師曾表示本季靈感來自於中古世紀風格融合異形外觀,運用立體材質精緻刻畫服裝帶出龍鱗紋路,好似披上龍皮的中古女戰士,中性帥氣感十足,但許多如離頸領設計與模特兒的妝更讓人聯想到日本藝妓與西方文化交融意象。除奇特頭罩,Gareth Pugh更大量使用硬挺布料營造出如「星際大戰」裡面的莉亞公主般70年代科幻感。

Gareth Pugh延續怪異風格,鋪陳濃厚科技感。

Gareth Pugh延續怪異風格,鋪陳濃厚科技感。

Damir Doma本季則遠離未來,結合東方日本柔道服與西方軍裝元素,設計出中性軍裝感。寬大的設計、緊束的腰肩再配上柔軟的布料,Damir Doma以螢光藍搭配黑、灰、卡其等基本軍服色系打造時尚武裝,使伸展台上的模特兒搖身變成武林高手,展現既剛且柔的特質。而Felipe Oliveira Baptista也不遑多讓,運用大量圖案拼接和不規則剪裁搭配迷彩,設計師完美呈現另一種野戰風格,啟發女性們堅強的戰鬥力。

融合軍裝元素,迷彩色系成為設計師獨愛。(左一和二為Damir Doma,右為Felipe Oliveira Baptista)

融合軍裝元素,迷彩色系成為設計師獨愛。(左一和二為Damir Doma,右為Felipe Oliveira Baptista)

雖然巴黎時裝週本日主打著科技和中性,但女性化的立體花飾絕對也沒被設計師們忘記,Dries Van Noten就是以精緻的立體綴飾和刺繡花飾驚豔全場。本季靈感來自於寬鬆輕薄襯衫、長褲和洋裝相互搭配,Dries Van Noten運用絲質、雪紡和軟質布料帶出輕鬆慵懶的飄逸感,繁複立體花飾展露出獨特華麗美感,格子花紋則帶點復古的青春風華,Dries Van Noten 2013春夏女裝完美的向復古80致敬。而Alexis Mabille也跟隨腳步搭上搖滾搭配格紋風格,整個衣裝系列比前者顯得青春洋溢許多。

格紋帶出復古休閒少女感。(左一和二為Dries Van Noten,右為Alexis Mabille)

格紋帶出復古休閒少女感。(左一和二為Dries Van Noten,右為Alexis Mabille)

Nicolas Andrew Taralis本季運用科技感材質走前衛風格,一字肩頸設計外,大量不對稱剪裁、硬與軟質布料的拼接和鋁箔般的反光材質,更是把「Avant-Garde」的意境完整表達出來。而Guy Laroche跟上潮流,運用科技材質和合身剪裁呈現十足休閒感,外加春意盎然的配色和繁複印花點綴,系列女裝可說是極有度假氛圍。Rochas則是使用頭巾和靴子等配件勾勒出60年代風格,軟質布料呈現一派輕鬆並帶出運動感,復古與科技的交錯感濃厚。 ««

Nicolas Andrew Taralis(左)以鋁箔材質帶出科技感,而Guy Laroche(中)是輕盈素材表現運動風,Rochas則是以配件向60年代致敬。

Nicolas Andrew Taralis(左)以鋁箔材質帶出科技感,而Guy Laroche(中)是輕盈素材表現運動風,Rochas則是以配件向60年代致敬。

»»As Paris Fashion Week take over from Milan, the romanticism atmosphere has transformed to futuristic and avant-garde. Lead by Mugler, the brands play around with vintage and futurism, brought out the sci-fi films from the late 60s to 70s, expressed the heavy taste from choice of material.

While Mugler debut their Lady Gaga bag in Paris Fashion Week, they also impressed the audiences with their futurism intertwined with naturalism collection. Choosing leather as their main material, Mugler left the idea of soft and freely sense entirely with their origami cut of their collection. In addition, the usage of lion silhouette pattern was a creation that no one has ever used before. When the designer Sebastien Peigne kept Theirry Mugler’s original ideas in designs, he also burst out and improved with little details such as shortness of the skirt. Likewise, Gareth Pugh kept their alien dark functions added with medieval period touch of design. While we thinking vintage, the usage of material lead us to futuristic. With skating dresses composed of delicate bands of gossamer fabric, Gareth Pugh sent us the message of a dark futurism.

Damir Doma, on the other hand, has their touch on military mix-match with fashion. When seeking fusion between kung-fu and western military uniforms, the palette of Damir Doma appear to be a mixture of neon blue and plain colors. Similar to Damir Doma, Dries Van Noten also chose the color palette of military green and yellow, expressed a rebel of feminism. Nicolas Andrew Taralis, Guy Laroche, and Rochas all used material to expressed heavy futurism, successfully fit the theme of Paris. ««

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