巴黎2013秋冬男裝特別報導之五:搖滾不死 vs. 好萊塢風雲
Paris 2013 Men’s Collections: Hollywood Styled Outfits


巴黎最後一日,除了服裝搶眼外,帽飾、圍巾、鞋履等配件也非常吸睛。(左至右:Thom Browne、Saint Laurent Paris、Lanvin)

巴黎最後一日,除了服裝搶眼外,帽飾、圍巾、鞋履等配件也非常吸睛。(左至右:Thom Browne、Saint Laurent Paris、Lanvin)

»»巴黎男裝週最後一日,品牌皆使出渾身解數,evoke精選幾款好萊塢星光造型推薦。Saint Laurent Paris的「搖滾時代」,Rock出新典章;Thom Browne的「駭客任務」唐裝,驚喜度破表,遑論Lanvin球鞋混搭西裝,將模特兒們打造成電影味濃厚的好萊塢「星光大道」,為2013秋冬男裝週畫上句點。

Hedi Slimane的Saint Laurent Paris男裝終於首度公開發表,許多有力人士無不爭相目睹,以致發表秀一票難求。雖然場面第一排坐著美國Rap歌星Kayne West,Saint Laurent Paris今季卻一點也不街頭Hip Hop,走向搖滾。延續設計師「纖細」風格,模特兒各個瘦得可怕,但是配上搖滾Rock-n-Roll的設計,讓人不禁聯想起一絲「搖滾時代」(Rock of Ages)的窄版風情。集合撕裂、豹紋、皮衣皮褲、格紋等元素,要是Tom Cruise飾演的Stacee Jaxx傳奇存在於現代,那麼瘋狂朝聖的搖滾迷務必穿上今季Saint Laurent Paris,就算在千百人擠爆的Bourbon俱樂部,也能令人眼睛為之一亮。

搖滾風格的Saint Laurent Paris 2013秋冬很適合喜愛Stacee Jaxx(右)的瘋狂歌迷穿著去朝聖。

搖滾風格的Saint Laurent Paris 2013秋冬很適合喜愛Stacee Jaxx(右)的瘋狂歌迷穿著去朝聖。

Thom Browne愛在每季混搭不同電影基因,從「證人」(Witness)、「極光追殺令」(Dark City)至「危機邊緣」(Fringe)等電影造型,Thome Browne集合好萊塢影視作品提煉出2013秋冬男裝。在我看來,Thome Browne倒是將喜好放在中國武術文化。伸展台上,男模身穿立體箱型剪裁的服裝加上墨鏡,像極了「駭客任務」(Matrix)裡男主角Neo,散發以一抵百、一夫當關萬夫莫敵的強大氣勢。而特殊的方形帽飾也是本季Thom Browne男裝亮點之一,另外棉襖大衣刻意做成一字肩立體盔甲版,加以結合黑色調與皮草、千鳥紋、绗縫、幾何印、科技布料等素材,每位男模也有當年「上海灘」的中國黑幫感,讓伸展台吹起東西合併風潮。

Thom Browne 2013秋冬有結合「駭客任務」Neo與「上海灘」造型的影子。

Thom Browne 2013秋冬有結合「駭客任務」Neo與「上海灘」造型的影子。

比起前者的箱型與超窄版型,今季Lanvin主打寬鬆剪裁並結合高領設計,整套男裝皆運用如麂皮等高級布料,設計出略帶寬鬆、運動風十足的上班族系列。值得一提的是,男模腳踏著帆布運動鞋,配上西裝上身,感覺像是演出鋼鐵人的Robert Downey Jr.喜愛的紅毯妝束(他最喜歡西裝配球鞋上紅毯),讓編輯都不禁猜想,是否在今年4月中「鋼鐵人3」(Iron Man 3)的首映上,也能看到他身穿Lanvin 2013秋冬現身紅毯,驕傲展現自己時尚品味的囂張樣子。

Lanvin 2013秋冬男裝非常適合Robert Downey Jr.(右)喜歡西裝配球鞋的搭法。

Lanvin 2013秋冬男裝非常適合Robert Downey Jr.(右)喜歡西裝配球鞋的搭法。

而英國老紳Paul Smith此季則走向極簡主義。繽紛的色調配上幾何與千鳥花紋,Paul Smith 2013秋冬延續英式西裝剪裁,隱含歐普與幾何藝術的影子,與Lanvin一同尋找上班族平日最能穿的服裝比例。此次Paul Smith 發表,剛好符合Robert Pattinson最愛的五顏六色風格。眼尖的影迷發現近期他忙於宣傳「夢遊大都會」(Cosmopolis)時身穿的藍色西裝,已經開始重複「暮光之城」(Twilight)紅毯時所選擇的款式,為了今年即將上映的三部新片,他不妨可以參考Paul Smith 2013秋冬,好減少和自己紅毯撞衫的窘境。««

Paul Smith 2013秋冬男裝應該可以幫Robert Pattinson(右)的紅毯造型增色不少。

Paul Smith 2013秋冬男裝應該可以幫Robert Pattinson(右)的紅毯造型增色不少。

»»The last day of Paris Men’s Fashion Week might be a little bit cold for Paris’ snowy weather, but the passion of fashion still burned on catwalk with Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent Paris, Thom Browne, Lanvin, and Paul Smith. Lead with Saint Laurent Paris, Hedi Slimane has created a collection for slim people only. While almost impossible for regular men to fit in, the theme of the collection is not feminine at all – Rock and roll. With super skinny design and massive usage of leather, leopard pattern, black, white, and red, the collection definitely reminds us a bit of Rock of Ages.

Thom Browne, on the other hand, always loves to insert movie-inspirations into his designs. With elements of Witness, Dark City, and Fringe showed in the collection, the Thom Browne 2013 FW collection is very action-movied. But for evoke editors; he leans toward to Chinese boxy design, which has the shadow of Matrix’s Neo with the sunglass.

For Lanvin 2013 FW collections, the suit and sports are combined. While finding the golden proportion for men, the loose design is not so extreme like Thom Browne and Saint Laurent Paris. As it fits for both formal and casual style, the Thom Browne 2013 FW collection is perfect for Iron Man Robert Downey Jr.’s red carpet attire, which he favors the combination of sneakers and suits.

Last but not least, Paul Smith’s British style has once again hit the stage. While the color palette is way more abundant than the other brands, our Edward from Twilight can definitely consider Paul Smith’s 2013 FW collection as he is also a fan of colorful suits.««

 

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