東京時裝周 傳統交鋒前衛科技
Tradition Faces Off with Futurism


日式美學在2012秋冬仍扮演重要角色。(由左至右:Matohu、Araisara、Kamishima Chinami)

日式美學在2012秋冬仍扮演重要角色。(由左至右:Matohu、Araisara、Kamishima Chinami)

»»2012秋冬東京時裝周,不論是根植傳統東方文化的Araisara和Matohu,或是以科技材質打造未來氛圍的Somarta,都展現日本不同於四大時裝周的美學;而新秀Atsushi Nakashima和Shiroma在旅歐多年後也決定回國展演,讓來自世界各國的媒體與買家都感受到了東京時裝周的茁壯。

從2013年春夏開始就將轉戰巴黎的Araisara(荒井沙羅),在東京的最後一場秀中,讓人看到她未來的無限可能。在北京出生成長、在東京受教育的特殊背景,讓Araisara對東方文化有著過人理解,品牌哲學也力圖將傳統工藝與現代服裝結合。以詞牌「阿那曲」(又做「婀娜曲」)為主題,Araisara本季不論是水墨畫,剪紙花紋或是日式刺繡圖案,都在設計師手下化為豐富的布料質感,毫無援引文化符號的突兀感。Araisara選用的細膩絲質,也與師法和服的垂墜線條相得益彰,布料在模特兒行走間翻轉騰挪,形成流動空間。色調以水墨黑白為主,搭上飽和深紫與靛青色調,再綴以灰褐色古舊絲質,奢華與禪意水乳交融。然而現代時裝元素並未缺席,與東方元素混搭的短裙與褲裝線條俐落,西服外套的影子也處處可見,使全系列仍是相當實穿,毫無淪為美術館展品之虞。

Araisara 2012秋冬將東方藝術自然地融入服裝中。

Araisara 2012秋冬將東方藝術自然地融入服裝中。

表現亮眼的還有由Hiroyuki Horihata(堀畑裕之)與Makiko Sekiguchi(關口真紀子)夫婦兩人設計的Matohu,從日常生活中蒐集穿著和服的興趣出發,Matohu品牌以日本慶長時代的審美為藍本,每季都探索東方服裝的不同面貌。本季兩人推出了迄今最為平易近人的系列,減少了和服柄(圖案)的使用,而加入了不少西式剪裁的雙排釦大衣與褲裝。日本傳統的靛藍、苔綠與棕褐色仍是全場主軸,但間歇穿插招牌的鮮嫩色調,搭配和服剪裁特有的肩部褶皺,與飽含侘寂(wabi sabi)美感的斑駁漸層布料,更顯雲淡風清。

Matohu本季除招牌和服之外也多了不少西方元素。

Matohu本季除招牌和服之外也多了不少西方元素。

曾在Issey Miyake任職的 Tamae Hirokawa(廣川玉枝),與她的導師同樣熟稔布料科技,但在個人品牌Somarta中,設計哲學則是大異其趣。本季以「Geode」(晶洞)為主題,貼合身形的女性化線條,滿布鑲嵌亮片與幾何印花,宛若由無數晶體組成。在由天然水晶色澤一路漸層到深沉血紅的過程間,Tamae Hirokawa盡情揮灑數位印花與雷射切割技法。從形似羊角的鏤空手法、點綴裙襬的無數花瓣,再到取自達文西畫作的花卉印花,繁複華麗冠絕東京時裝周。曾受Lady Gaga青睞的無跟高跟鞋款仍是全秀重點之一,與legging融為一體,將模特兒的比例襯托得宛若外星生物。

Somarta 2012秋冬揮灑布料科技。

Somarta 2012秋冬揮灑布料科技。

喜歡從旅行和大自然中尋求靈感的Kamishima Chinami,本季以「寒冬中的生命力」為題;設計師表示希望能提醒現代人,能夠不受嚴寒侵襲的幸福。開場即以黑白交錯的印花裙裝體現冬日枯枝的蕭瑟,但旋即轉向苔綠、梅紅與柑橘等自然色調;而線條宛若上升暖流的花卉圖紋,更是帶來春日將至的希望。全系列以垂墜裙裝與富結構感的大衣搭配,混合輕薄棉布與裙裝與毛呢皮草材質,種種巧妙對比展現對季節的感受。

Kamishima Chinami在2012秋冬呈現了冬去春來的季節變化。

Kamishima Chinami在2012秋冬呈現了冬去春來的季節變化。

新秀部分,曾任Jean-Paul Gaultier助理設計師的Atsushi Nakashima(中島篤),本季也迎來了品牌的首秀。師法現代主義建築,以幾何剪裁詮釋西服結構,設計師表示他希望融合古典與現代美感;但以灰階為主的系列,在融入大量人造材質後,未來感顯然蓋過了傳統元素。在全秀最後十套訂製系列中,恩師Jean-Paul Gaultier的影子仍然強烈,不論是束身胸衣的使用,或是秀末「神力女超人」的披風造型,都流露「老頑童」的風格。2010年成立的品牌Shiroma,本季對近年來相當熱門的鏡像數位印花做出新嘗試,與連帽夾克和軍用外套等街頭元素搭配,融合看似衝突的休閒與科幻氛圍。而屢屢推出前衛眼鏡的Shiroma,本季也不例外,以雷朋經典款纏繞紅黑電線,為系列增添看點。««

Atsushi Nakashima(左一至二)迎來首秀,Shiroma(右一至二)融合休閒未來風格。

Atsushi Nakashima(左一至二)迎來首秀,Shiroma(右一至二)融合休閒未來風格。

»»In her last year in Tokyo before moving to Paris, Sara Arai, founder of brand Araisara, has made a statement at the Tokyo fashion week with her unique grasp of oriental sentiments. Born and raised in Beijing, China and trained in Japan, Sara Arai posses a thorough understanding of Eastern Asian culture, which she blended seamlessly with her FW 2012 collection. Traces of ink painting, paper art as well as Japanese embroidery were paired up with kimono inspired shapes, whereas the palette ranged from black and white to luxurious turquoise and violet.

Matohu, founded by the duo Hiroyuki Horihata and Makiko Sekiguchi, has continued its kimono inspired aesthetics, but blended it with more western pieces, such as trousers and double breasted coats, for their most wearable collection thus far. The color scheme consisted of traditionally Japanese indigo, moss and beige, while springy floral colors served as an interlude in the collection.

Tamae Hirokawa at Somarta presented a collection on the other side of the spectrum. Titled “Geode”, the designer sent out crystalline futuristic textured bodysuits onto the runway. Tamae Hirokawa has also shown her mastery of new technologies, ranging from digital printing, for which she took notes from Leonardo da Vinci, to the brilliant laser cut gowns towards the end of the show. The lady Gaga endorsed heel less high heels was ever present in this collection, resulting in unreal proportions in combination with printed legging.

Kamishima Chinami, a constant advocate of nature, has based her collection around “Life in Winter”, starting with black on white printing resembling winter trees, gradually turning towards natural colors of moss, plum and orange, whereas the show closing poppy flowers sent the hopes of spring.

Atsushi Nakashima, former assistant to Jean Paul Gaultier has seen the debut of his namesake brand. According to the designer, the collection was about intercrossing the past and present, but the geometric patterns made the collection more about the future than anything else. The latter part of the show, which presented some haute couture looks, has seen influence from his mentor from the use of corset to the wicked sense of humor. Shiroma, founded in 2010, has taken a twist on the notion of the futuristic, paring it up with causal garments, the designer’s Ray Ban decorated with wires also added some flavor to the collection.««

推到Facebook臉書!把這篇文章貼到twitter分享到微博!手機版網站