模特兒何時能環肥燕瘦?
How Different can Models be?


Umit Benan台前台後,軍營風格玩得徹底。

Umit Benan台前台後,軍營風格玩得徹底。

»»在近兩季的男裝伸展台上,或為了炒作話題、或為了襯托服裝,「非主流」模特兒的風潮,大有起死回生之勢。Yohji Yamamoto繼續使用自己宛若「馬克思」與「山本五十六」的班底自然無須贅言;敢做敢為的Jean Paul Gaultier在他的2012秋冬男裝系列中,也用起雌雄莫辨的美艷男模Andreij Pejic,為自己超越性別的混搭手法加持;Mugler總監Nicolas Formichetti在2011年秋冬與Rick Genest合作,使「殭屍男孩」成為時尚圈的風雲人物;而本季米蘭新星Umit Benan更把大叔傭兵軍團搬上舞台,整群人馬在後台大玩刺青、伏地挺身,甚至搭起棚子就開始沖澡,台前台後都瀰漫著軍營風,只差沒有演出「撿肥皂」劇碼。

日本設計師愛用大叔走秀源遠流長。(左:Yohji Yamamoto pour Homme 2012秋冬,右:Comme des Garçon Homme + 1998春夏)

日本設計師愛用大叔走秀源遠流長。(左:Yohji Yamamoto pour Homme 2012秋冬,右:Comme des Garçon Homme + 1998春夏)

把宅男大叔抓上T台,在男裝界早已是行之有年,從80年代起,不論是日本風潮中的Yohji Yamamoto、Comme des Garçons或是比利時安特衛普六君子中的Walter Beirendonck,都經常讓整群不是禿頭、鮪魚肚,就是四肢不協調的路人走秀,做為對過度精緻化、脫離生活的巴黎時尚的反叛;在90年代末,以車庫搖滾和滑板少年為靈感的Hedi Slimane和Raf Simons,從街上隨意「徵召」身材纖細的少年更是時有所聞。雖然在2000年代後半,前衛男裝主流化的風潮使得「非主流」模特兒短暫消聲匿跡,這兩年卻大有回潮之勢。  

Sophie Dahl在1997年(上)與2001年(下)兩相對比,不難看出纖瘦了不少。

Sophie Dahl在1997年(上)與2001年(下)兩相對比,不難看出纖瘦了不少。

反觀女裝,沒有標準九頭身的模特兒卻難以得到接納。雖然前有Martin Margiela採用素人模特兒,後有Alexander McQueen在時裝秀上起用雙腳截肢的Aimee Mullins和身材圓潤的Michelle Olley,卻未能真正帶動風潮。兩人步下舞台後,或為了視覺上顯得高挑,或為了統一尺寸、減少修改的必要,時尚界獨愛「紙片人」的風潮依然故我。即使是同樣由Isabella Blow慧眼相中,在1997年為Alexander McQueen在〈i-D〉雜誌上拍攝的Sophie Dahl,也難逃減肥的命運。在2000年為Tom Ford的YSL拍攝的Opium廣告中,雖然身材仍曲線畢露,卻可以看出Sophie Dahl「纖細」了不少。而英國設計師Mark Fast在2010年春夏全面採用大尺碼模特兒,引發造型師憤而出走的事件,更顯示了「肉感」在時尚界的異端程度。  

Crystal Renn體重直直落,令媒體揣測紛紛。(左:Jean Paul Gaultier 2006春夏發表;右:2012年年初出席公開活動)

Crystal Renn體重直直落,令媒體揣測紛紛。(左:Jean Paul Gaultier 2006春夏發表;右:2012年年初出席公開活動)

在T台上大放異彩,堪稱最紅的大尺碼模特兒的Crystal Renn,也曾走過一樣的心路歷程,自從15歲出道,Crystal Renn為了擁有標準模特兒身材,曾一度因厭食症失去30公斤體重;但幸運的是,Crystal Renn並沒有就此向厭食症屈服,「當我放棄節食後,我的職業生涯也跟著起飛了。」Crystal Renn在《Hungry》一書中寫道。以大尺碼模特兒的身分,Crystal Renn為Jean Paul Gaultier和Chanel走秀,其中Jean Paul Gaultier在2006春夏為她設計的一席薄紗禮服,更強調了她如希臘雕像的曲線,讓我們看到古典美感的靈光乍現。然而Crystal Renn在近一年來卻被發現體重驟降,幾乎要掉出大尺碼模特兒(美碼10號以上)的標準;她本人雖然屢屢澄清未有受到經紀人的壓力,各方的揣測卻未曾停息。

Jean Paul Gaultier在2006年使用Velvet D’Amour,引起軒然大波。

Jean Paul Gaultier在2006年使用Velvet D’Amour,引起軒然大波。

而時尚界對大尺碼模特兒的使用方式,也頗受詬病。推行大尺碼服裝多年的美國歌手Candye Kane就認為,服裝設計師往往只把大尺碼模特兒當做服裝秀上的爆點,而不把她們當成正常人看待。2006年,當馬德里時裝周禁絕身體質量指數(Body Mass Index, BMI)在18.5以下的模特兒時,Jean Paul Gaultier在發表會中使用大尺碼模特兒Velvet D’Amour,就被視為對豐腴女性的莫大諷刺。好在Jean Paul Gaultier「知錯能改」,在2011年春夏的華麗搖滾(Glam Rock)主題秀中,請來Beth Ditto站台就顯得與主題契合許多,場上的另外兩名大尺碼模特兒也絲毫不顯突兀,在女性主義者間扳回不少印象分數。而在即將到來的2013秋冬時裝周,是否女裝能向男裝學習,讓我們看到更多元的身材曲線,也讓人期待。««

»»In the past seasons, the men’s runway has seen a resurgence of unconventional models. While Yohji Yamamoto continues his adventure in featuring Karl Marx lookalike, Jean Paul Gaultier casted Andreij Pejic to emphasize the androgynous nature of his collections, Mugler’s collaboration with zombie boy Rick Genest has proven to be a win-win situation, whereas Umit Benan, the rising star in Milan, turned both his runway and backstage into barracks.

Non-professional models by no means a fresh sight on men’s runway, the Japanese avant-garde and the Antwerp Six have opened to the doors of the runway to bold, short and stout men as an antithesis of the Parisian “high fashion” scene in the 1980s. In the late 1990s, Hedi Slimane and Raf Simons have casted random skateboarding boys for their show, which marked the inception of the ultra-skinny trend. While armature models have retreated a bit in the latter half of the 2000s, as the avant-garde merged into the mainstream, it has picked up again in the past year.

On the other hand, unconventional models never were quite accepted on the women’s scene, despite attempts by Martin Margiela and Alexander McQueen throughout their careers. Even the much celebrated plus size model Sophie Dahl, has opted to lose some weight as exemplified by her more slender figure in the infamous “Opium” campaign. The fuzz caused by British Designer Mark Fast’s decision to use plus size models extensively, has again proven the unorthodoxy of “curves” in the fashion world.

Crystal Renn, the highest paid plus size model, has also gone through the test of anorexia, as she lost as much as 70 pounds in her teens in an effort to get a spot on the modeling scene. Paradoxically, her career picked up as soon as she has given up on starving herself, scoring runway shows for Jean Paul Gaultier and Chanel as a plus size model. Last year however, Crystal Renn has again been caught to lose weight, which, despite her denial of it having anything to do with pressures from the industry, has stirred up speculations.

Another much criticized aspect of the fashion industries using plus sized models was hypocrisy. In 2006, when Jean Paul Gaultier featured of plus size model Velvet D’Amour following Madrid’s decision to ban models with BMI under 18.5, an uproar occurred within the feminist circle, regarding it as sarcasm and insult on Gaultier’s behalf. In his Spring 2011 collection however, Gaultier made it up to them by inviting Beth Ditto to his glam rock themed show, along with other plus sized models, who perfected fitted the concept.««

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