米蘭2012秋冬女裝報導之七: 萬般光澤閃耀 幾何圖騰另闢蹊徑
Milan FW2012 Women’s Collections Trend Report


沒有比金黃閃爍更可型塑奢華尊榮氛圍。(由左至右分別為Salvatore Ferragamo、Aquilano.Rimondi、Emilio Pucci)

沒有比金黃閃爍更可型塑奢華尊榮氛圍。(由左至右分別為Salvatore Ferragamo、Aquilano.Rimondi、Emilio Pucci)

»»比起紐約的務實、倫敦的數位印花翩翩,米蘭時裝周總是多了股華麗成熟風情。以各種手法詮釋的光澤感在諸多品牌發表中閃耀,Dolce & Gabbana自是不能錯過的金色饗宴;而Prada引領的幾何重複圖樣,也有其他品牌響應;天鵝絨亦在Gucci等品牌詮釋下,以顏色與印花帶出新風貌;蕾絲、薄紗與雪紡重疊間的透視感,與動物紋路的應用,構成了米蘭性感的千萬面向;而各型各狀的帽子,則替本季男風潮流做了最明顯的註腳。

Trend 1: 閃爍光芒 光耀金秋
秋冬雖是暗沉色系主導,但米蘭時裝周的華麗本性又怎會甘心黯淡?不僅奢華張揚需要黃金光芒,即使是優雅淑女或運動休閒中亦有光芒閃耀。在宮廷主題引導下,Dolce & Gabbana打著巴洛克旗幟,以金銀刺繡、立體金花裝飾和黃金首飾齊奏華麗進行曲;相較之下,Salvatore Ferragamo與Aquilano.Rimondi則是曖曖內含光,前者以金箔蕾絲與印花詮釋沙皇風華,而後者以金黃披風點出巴洛克貴族的尊榮感。而現代淑女風格裡亦不乏光澤感元素,Giorgio Armani以亮片與含金屬紗的布料詮釋,而Fendi則在大衣表面上光膜,即使是簡約為主的Jil Sander亦有以類似PVC的布面處理,以些許的閃亮感凸顯優雅風華。

適度的光澤感亦能妝點優雅淑女。(由左至右分別為Giorgio Armani、Fendi、Jil Sander)

適度的光澤感亦能妝點優雅淑女。(由左至右分別為Giorgio Armani、Fendi、Jil Sander)

現代金色招搖版本則由Versace鑲滿亮片的洋裝、Roberto Cavalli的亮片褲搭豹紋衫、或Emilio Pucci的金色長袍配皮草擔綱演出。而休閒運動系列中,金屬色澤亦無缺席,Blumarine以銀光打造奢華街頭運動風,Sportmax則讓銀藍閃耀在絎縫細節上,Gianfranco Ferré以金銀各種色塊剪接出建築結構,而青春洋溢的Moschino亦用金色亮片點綴短洋裝的活力。

亮片或金屬光澤亦是設計師替秋冬增添亮點的常見手法。(由左至右分別為Versace、Blumarine、Gianfranco Ferré)

亮片或金屬光澤亦是設計師替秋冬增添亮點的常見手法。(由左至右分別為Versace、Blumarine、Gianfranco Ferré)

Trend1: Glittering Glamour
Glamour was never absent on Milan fashion week and this season many designers manipulate glimmering effects to translate the unnamed consensus. Aristocrat revere was the motif for Dolce & Gabbana, Salvatore Ferragamo and Aquilano.Rimondi. While Dolce & Gabbana celebrated shinning golden Baroque, the other two just used gold-foil laces and golden yellow capes to add a golden touch. Shimmering could also serve for lady’s looks and Giorgio Armani’s sequined black dress, Jil sander’s PVC gown and Fendi’s coated coat proved that.As for the modern versions, Versace’s golden sequined gowns, Roberto Cavalli’s paillette trousers and Emilio Pucci’s metallic trench coat provided luxurious statement. On the other hand, Blumarine, Sportmax, Gianfranco Ferré and Moschino offered a youthful and sporty touch to this glittering visual effect.

Trend2:幾何圖紋 色彩蔓延
宛若萬花筒般的重覆紋樣在米蘭伸展台上自有其擁護群眾,而色彩斑斕的幾何圖形在米蘭發表會中異常突出。Prada絕對是本次幾何圖紋的領潮者,鮮豔的色調與表面大顆水鑽或亮片鑲嵌占了本季過半的單品,讓主打的直線輪廓在層次搭配中展現變化萬千的視覺趣味。擅長印花搭配的Antonio Marras 則將之與各種花朵圖騰交織搭配,Versus的圖樣則介於幾何與花紋間,布滿性感緊身長褲與長上衣,創造迷幻感。Dsquared²則讓幾何花紋在少數單品中搭配,點提60年代復古甜美。Aquilano.Rimondi則利用緹花緞面詮釋重複圖騰的尊貴感,而Missoni在重複圖樣上編織出色塊 暈染以呼應有機大自然的主題。

鮮豔幾何花紋局部妝點或鋪滿全身都各有風味。(由左至右分別為Dsquared²、Antonio Marras、Missoni)

鮮豔幾何花紋局部妝點或鋪滿全身都各有風味。(由左至右分別為Dsquared²、Antonio Marras、Missoni)

Trend2: Repeated Patterns
Kaleidoscope-like colorful geometric patterns spread dominantly Prada’s runway and dominated Versus’ as well. Antonio Marras decided to mix such patterns with floral prints. Other designers used the prints partially to enrich their lineups as well, such as Dsquared²’ 60s pencil skits, Aqyulino.Rimondi’s silk brocade dresses, and Missoni’s knit dresses.

Trend3:奢華絲絨 風情萬千
兼具份量感與垂墜度的天鵝絨除了是詮釋秋冬奢華最佳材質外,本季透過印花與色彩的應用,也讓這貴氣的布料表達出更多青春表情。Gucci將墨綠色絲絨圍裹出19世紀末的華麗頹廢氛圍;而Bottega Veneta則亦或讓色彩裝飾或以燒花等技巧,在整季肅穆氣氛中增加些許奢華變化;Etro也在絨布上以變形蟲印花變化,增添民俗風情;而Emporio Armani剪裁此布料成及膝短褲或局部點綴在外套上,與Roberto Cavalli讓桃紅沾染絨布上衣,讓天鵝絨也能活潑洋溢。

天鵝絨在顏色與印花應用下,可貴氣也可年輕。(由左至右分別為Etro、Bottega Veneta、Emporio Armani)

天鵝絨在顏色與印花應用下,可貴氣也可年輕。(由左至右分別為Etro、Bottega Veneta、Emporio Armani)

Trend 3: Printed Velvet
The luxurious fabric velvet has found its way back to runway by applying print and colors to increase the visual variations. While Gucci wrapped the decayed glamour with blackish green plush, Bottega Veneta and Etro managed to add a luxurious brush by using colors and paisley prints. Emporio Armani and Roberto Cavalli, on the other hand, translated this fabric into something more youthful by adopting bright colors and cutting.

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