米蘭2012秋冬女裝特別報導之三: Versace十字華麗信仰 Moschino青春俏牛仔
Milan FW2012 Women’s Collections: Milano Extravaganza


Versace(左)本季以拜占庭十字為發想題材,Moschino(中與右)俏麗軍警引人注目。

Versace(左)本季以拜占庭十字為發想題材,Moschino(中與右)俏麗軍警引人注目。

»»不閃亮個徹底絕不罷休,是Versace勢必遵守的承諾,Donatella Versace延續2012春夏高級訂製服的立體剪裁,再極盡可能地將金屬鉚釘、華石、亮片全都堆疊服裝表層,讓單純的十字造型也能富有變化,再三驗證Versace招牌性感豪奢姿態。身為Roberto Cavalli副牌的Just Cavalli依舊在品牌經典豹紋符號下,加以PVC新材質上演一齣華麗的青春戲碼。青春有餘的還有Moschino,將伸展台當閱兵典禮,俏麗的牛仔軍警,吸睛破表;Iceberg也大談搖滾年華,Etro、Gabriele Colangelo與Blumarine等則挑戰新輪廓之餘,各自主張2012秋冬的繽紛景象。

在2012秋冬蔚為流行的黑色,繼昨日Prada首以黑色珠飾套裝出場強壓眾敵,Versace也祭出了黑軍壓境,不過Versace在哥德式風範下鋪陳蛇髮女神秘魅力,模特兒們煙燻妝搭配妹妹頭瀏海走秀,系列女裝紛以水晶、金屬鉚釘、亮片、寶石等鑲嵌組合拜占庭十字造型,震撼力十足。2012春夏高級訂製服,Donatella Versace以3D立體剪裁配合拋光亮面布料,型塑高雅紅毯晚服,如今在2012秋冬女裝系列,無論在腰間打摺也好,或是肩線修飾,或是馬甲造型,依舊可看得到相似技法,這該說設計師不用功不夠創新,還是該稱一個小元素可以放大延伸多種變化,怎麼取之也不盡,所以每季變化相差不大。也因為這樣,有評論開始出聲表示,如果抹掉這些珠光寶氣,那麼Versace還剩下什麼的慨嘆。不過值得一提的是,整場秀另一興味便是品牌字母壓印在洋裝,讓Versace的女人華麗性感之餘,也有俏皮面。

Versace 2012秋冬可見春夏高級訂製服剪裁手法,而品牌字母塗鴉讓華麗氛圍多了點俏麗成分。

Versace 2012秋冬可見春夏高級訂製服剪裁手法,而品牌字母塗鴉讓華麗氛圍多了點俏麗成分。

設計師Rossella Jardini為Moschino帶來了歡樂的戲碼,舞台背景音樂響起了陣陣鼓樂,女模們宛如閱兵典禮上的大頭兵,一一走秀現身。然而軍裝多給人成熟穩重感,但在Moschino向來堅持的個性繽紛論調變得輕快俏皮,彷彿電影「玩具總動員」(Toy Story)裡的牛仔胡迪,加上迷你短裙以及鮮豔紅藍色塊的助陣,Moschino女孩們各各落落大方。除此,設計師亦將滑雪休閒裝扮混搭進這季表現,讓秋冬系列更具可看性,但在率性同時,Moschino也不忘女人的甜美天性,膝上短裙小洋裝滿布縐褶,配上大蝴蝶結頭飾,小公主駕到。

Moschino以俏皮軍裝歌頌青春。

Moschino以俏皮軍裝歌頌青春。

至於Just Cavalli數日前才被報導其銷售不如預期影響了母體Roberto Cavalli整個營運,但本季秋冬,仍在主牌Roberto Cavalli經典標誌庇蔭下,繼續散發豹紋甜美少女魅力。其以60年代倫敦當靈感背景,印花圖騰則是品牌擅長的豹紋、斑馬紋的動物圖騰,佐著皮草毛呢,開始架構一場華麗與青春共舞的想像。設計師藉此表示本季多了立體紋路的針織系列,以及添加PVC材質,好比是PVC做成八分褲或洋裝裝飾物增加視覺層次等,連同丹寧牛仔也多了繡花紋路,企圖打造Just Cavalli的多元性,讓品牌更具市場競爭力。

經典動物紋路依舊現身在Just Cavalli秋冬伸展台上,除此更多了PVC材質助陣。

經典動物紋路依舊現身在Just Cavalli秋冬伸展台上,除此更多了PVC材質助陣。

本季秋冬流行的裙襬式腰封也悄然現身在Erto會場,Etro本身豐富的印花圖像已為2012秋冬做好萬全準備,但設計師Veronica Etro更注入復古素材與精湛做工,讓本季更有看頭。不管是加高的腰線、雷射雕花皮革花紋、皮草短罩袍穿出層次感等,盡是熟女風範。而Iceberg,則是以60年代的女歌手Marianne Faithfull為繆思,滿布著搖滾基因,緊身褲、墊肩皮夾克、鮮豔圖騰,寫下秋冬摩登姿態。

Erto(左與中)以束腰印花和優雅剪裁取勝,Iceberg(右)則奔向搖滾樂懷抱。

Erto(左與中)以束腰印花和優雅剪裁取勝,Iceberg(右)則奔向搖滾樂懷抱。

繽紛華麗者,還有Blumarine,本季秋冬除了經典甜美標誌之外,設計師企圖融入金屬、多彩元素,要讓Blumarine的眾女孩們blingbling一整個寒冬。不過就在華麗外表下,Marco de Vincenzo卻是反其道而行,在一片米白雪色之下,以幾何線條描繪著服裝隱形化般的立體紋理,唯一的彩度則是來自大理石紋路印花。反觀遊走於繽紛與極簡之間的Gabriele Colangelo,從女裝輪廓下手,以倫敦藝術家Jason Martin為繆思,集結了Dior的New Look和Phoebe Philo在Celine的慣用手法,無論羊腿袖或束腰結構,在布料漸層染色處理下,更具質感,寫下秋冬精彩一頁。««

Marco de Vincenzo(左)、Blumarine(中)、Gabriele Colangelo(右)以多元面料、手法處理變化,各自精彩。

Marco de Vincenzo(左)、Blumarine(中)、Gabriele Colangelo(右)以多元面料、手法處理變化,各自精彩。

»»Black might be the dominant color this winter, but Versace has its way to make it glimmering and sexy. Decorated with crystal, studs, Paillette, shiny stones and so on, the Byzantine crosses on garments became the luxurious visual melody for the lineups. Though the main silhouette and cutting skills seem to be similar to her previous collections, Donatella Versace still kept her promise to make women in Versace sexy and delightful.

Moschino’s chic and cute collections were composed by Rossella Jardini’s playful interpretation of the girly troops. Mixing with miniskirts, bright red and blue color blocks and elements of ski gears, the march were indeed young and vigorous. Of course, there were lovely princesses in hot-pink short dresses full of ruffles and ribbon bow on hair, which added more sweetness to this presentation.

Just Cavalli’s weak sale might affect the overall revenue of Roberto Cavalli Group, but that looming worry didn’t depress the runway. Girls in Just Cavalli were still wild and sexy. Inspired by the 60s in London and mixed with animal prints, fur and PVC, the designer did a splendid and youthful collection for the winter.

Erto chose to satisfy women not girls in this collection. Veronica Erto manipulated print, laser-carved pattern on leather and fur vast to add rich visual layers to this mature collection. Iceberg’s muse was the singer, Marianne Faithfull, and full of rock elements. Blumarine kept the brand’s girly touch and inserted metallic elements and colors to enrich the collection.

However, Marco de Cincenzo and Gabriele Colangelo decided to take a severe attitude in their presentations. The former used white to sculpt the dresses while the latter also manipulated gradient colors to bring some variation to his structural lineups.««

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