米蘭2012秋冬女裝特別報導之四: Jil Sander簡約美學 Bottega Veneta低調奢華
Milan FW2012 Women’s Collections: Precision Aesthetic


洗鍊簡約的剪裁貫穿本日發表。(由左至右分別為Jil Sander、Bottega Veneta、Sportmax)

洗鍊簡約的剪裁貫穿本日發表。(由左至右分別為Jil Sander、Bottega Veneta、Sportmax)

»»向昨日的狂歡氣氛告別,今日的米蘭時裝週由Raf Simons主導的Jil Sander現代簡約風格領軍,以精準的剪裁與俐落的線條,回歸服裝基本面。Bottega Veneta和Sportmax分別以深色洗鍊與中性運動,擴增簡約美學的意涵,而Emilio Pucci則運用貼身剪裁雕塑性感。Emporio Armani則是以青春洋溢的短褲哲學,替本日的伸展台加一筆俏麗樣貌。

Raf Simons要離開掌舵7年的Jil Sander對品牌來說也許是個哀傷的消息,畢竟他精湛的剪裁功力與品味已替品牌寫下新的里程碑,而這最後一場秋冬女裝發表絕對是他簡約風格的最佳註解。以粉彩色系為主調的發表中,女模身披寬鬆近乎無接線的雙面毛料大衣,摀著衣襟進場,以最少的姿態揭示本季居家清晨的主題,嶄露不刻意之嫵媚風情。除類似浴袍的毛料長大衣外,類似內衣的剪接線也出現在平口馬甲的洋裝與禮服中呼應居家主題,再佐以些許的解構線條與不對稱剪裁在裙裾上,與PVC布料低調閃耀穿插,替服裝系列增添一抹哲思的現代氛圍。

在Raf Simons的操刀下Jil Sander的簡約哲學中仍帶有些許嫵媚。

在Raf Simons的操刀下Jil Sander的簡約哲學中仍帶有些許嫵媚。

Bottega Veneta的秋冬系列也是以簡約美學為基調,但比起Jil Sander的輕盈現代感的用色,Tomas Maier則選擇深沉嚴肅的色版,與當前歐洲經濟危機氣氛相呼應。精準合身的剪裁功力,完美展現在及膝毛料大衣與套裝上,女模身著筆挺的馬靴和黑色皮手套,展現嚴謹氛圍,僅有些許深色亮片釘墜與胸前大型寶石胸針,低調點綴奢華元素。晚裝部分,天鵝絨與雪紡的應用稍微緩和了低迷的氣氛,絲絨的光澤感搭配燒花處理,讓禮服在暗色調中也有華麗感;雪紡布塊邊緣抽絲,大量堆積成裙襬,或裝飾肩膀,再搭配少許珠飾閃爍的光澤感,替黑色增添多樣的質感變化。

Bottega Veneta以精準的剪裁將深色奢華詮釋得淋漓盡致。

Bottega Veneta以精準的剪裁將深色奢華詮釋得淋漓盡致。

短褲俏麗絕對是貫穿本日Emporio Armani秀場的重點。窄管剪裁及膝短褲,褲腳外接側開衩,以緞面、絲絨和毛料等製成,穿梭在多層次的長上衣、繽紛皮草、腰間短裝飾裙(Peplum)、甚至縐摺洋裝下,搭配圓點、條紋、大朵布花和緞面短荷葉堆疊,讓秀場上成雙成對出現的女模們,個個兼具男孩淘氣與女孩可愛氣質。而大型裝飾項鍊、小軟帽與斜帶的花朵髮飾,與表面的亮片、布花與珠飾處理,除增添華麗元素外,又令人聯想到20年代流行的青春男孩氣的氛圍。

Emporio Armani以及膝短褲與多層次搭配,打造小男孩般的俏麗。

Emporio Armani以及膝短褲與多層次搭配,打造小男孩般的俏麗。

MaxMara的年輕副牌Sportmax則以運動味十足的陽剛剪裁,詮釋中性簡約美學。箱型輪廓的大衣與不對稱皮草翻領包裹出女模的戰鬥氣勢,寬大的上衣與長褲和腰間綁帶令人聯想起空手道或柔道的袍服;帶金屬光澤的絎縫(quilting)穿插在皮草大衣、高領上衣與洋裝間,替系列帶來一股洗練的都會華麗。而女性穠纖合度的曲線,則以洋裝與大衣上的蜿蜒剪接線詮釋,在中性運動氛圍中凸顯女性特質的魅力。

Sportmax以寬大剪裁詮釋中性運動風。

Sportmax以寬大剪裁詮釋中性運動風。

Peter Dundas所主導的Emilio Pucci則是以精準的剪裁展現致命性感。貼身黑色洋裝上,有大量的斜向或幾何切口,讓黑色雪紡紗下的膚色引誘若隱若現;而其他雪紡洋裝中,細膩的亮片珠飾也砌成幾何圖騰,與光澤感的套裝和皮草大衣,以不過度張揚的手法展現華麗;設計師也借用男裝剪裁在大衣外套上,披垂在女模身上,讓女人性感與氣勢兼具。而曾任Kenzo設計總監的Antonio Marras在其同名品牌中,以精準比例拿捏,於印花翩翩中塑造略帶民俗風的優雅淑女。各種印花的組合本就是Antonio Marras的專長,點綴其中的皮草也更增添質感變化;而設計師在剪裁上混合了日式和服與西方套裝,甚至以雙重領片搭配,替本季伸展台帶來豐富的視覺效果。««

Emilio Pucci(左一至二)以合身剪裁,而Antonio Marras(右一至二)以印花混合中西方版型,詮釋截然不同的女性風情。

Emilio Pucci(左一至二)以合身剪裁,而Antonio Marras(右一至二)以印花混合中西方版型,詮釋截然不同的女性風情。

»»Today, Raf Simons presented his last collection for Jil Sander which was definitely captivating and chic. Models wore double-faced coats, clutching on the runway which associating with bathrobe. And the lingerie cutting in dresses confirmed the home motif. The usage of PVC fabrics also highlighted the asymmetric structural cutting. Raf Simons did saying goodbye with his signature modern and refine cutting in this collection.

Bottega also chose precision cutting to express its austerity with enticing hints. Dark tone dominated the runway, and only a glimmering jewelry and velvet suggested a glimpse of glamour. Shredded chiffon piled up to form skirts or dresses which added another visual layers to the black collection.

Short pants with cuffs were the youthful touch of Emporio Armani this season and it appeared in every outfit. With taffeta, chiffon camellias, geometric jewelry and dresses full of ruffles, this collection provided a boyish chic and girly sweet at the same time.

Martial arts was the theme for Sportmax this season. The design team used elements from karate or judo to create a sporty chunky outfit for females. Glimmering quilting and fur lapels also provided another luxurious touch to this urban colletion.

Emilio Pucci also manipulated formfitting cutting to shape a sexy collection. Slashes on chiffon gowns not only created an alluring touch but also provided a urban sheer look. Fur coats, great coats, and crocodile skirts brought some luxury decoration to the lineup. On the contrary, Antonio Marras mixed various floral-print fabrics and furs to shape an elegant collection . He manipulated the cutting of suits, sport jackets and kimono to create a rich variation on the runway.««

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