米蘭2013春夏女裝特別報導之一:浪漫名媛vs.性感貴婦
Milan SS2013 Women’s Collections: Romanticism vs. Sexiness


本季色彩鮮艷,讓米蘭春天提早到來。(左至右為:Gucci、Fay、John Richmond。)

本季色彩鮮艷,讓米蘭春天提早到來。(左至右為:Gucci、Fay、John Richmond。)

»»米蘭時裝週第一天,設計師們展現出義大利浪漫風采,伸展台被春意盎然的色彩覆蓋,強烈襯托出華麗氣息。大量的薄紗以及蕾絲成為今日主角,精細繡花則完美搭配出女性柔情,讓本日秀場充滿著浪漫與性感。

米蘭時裝週開跑,第一天便由Gucci打頭陣,伸展台上色彩繽紛,彷彿春天已提早來訪米蘭。運用羅馬式長袍設計為立基,剪裁出飄然的波浪折袖,並以60年代末風情為繆思,帶出合身剪裁,使女性嬌柔線條被完美展演出來。色彩上,運用春天色盤渲染,最後搭配耀眼飾品或東方印花畫龍點睛的整體點綴,讓人不禁聯想起永遠的玉女伊莉莎白泰勒。Gucci 2013春夏系列以鮮豔的色彩抓住所有人的眼睛,不但刻畫出女性浪漫的特質,更印證了設計師Frida Giannini在後台發表要讓Gucci重返榮耀的發言,驚艷大眾。

Gucci本季主打流水般的袖子設計。

Gucci本季主打流水般的袖子設計。

Alberta Ferretti 今年帶著大家在清晨潛入深海,一探海底神祕世界。設計師玩耍光影遊戲,讓折射和色彩互動,展現曼妙的螢光效果。以海藻色為主色系,穿插著繁複華麗蕾絲,每位穿上Alberta Feretti 2013春夏的模特兒猶如住在海底中的美人魚公主們,在海葵群中嬉戲,展現設計師浪漫的想像力。除了絲和雪紡交纏出透明感,今年Alberta Ferretti運用大量的綢緞和蕾絲刺繡,以像紋身般的貼身剪裁,帶出柔美及優雅,而輕巧質感則讓服裝充滿空氣感,宛如人魚們自由自在的在水中漫遊,捲起陣陣波浪,最後採用亮片帶出光的層次,好像清晨微光灑在幽靜大海上,那樣的優美寧靜。

Alberta Ferretti 本季以深海生物為主軸,打造出海洋世界。

Alberta Ferretti 本季以深海生物為主軸,打造出海洋世界。

Francesco Scognamiglio 在2013春夏想獻給每位女性一個貴氣十足的熱氣球之旅。運用黑、白、銀、金等低調奢華色盤,呼應本季薄紗蕾絲所營造的性感氛圍。輕薄的雪紡加上精緻的鳥類圖騰刺繡,本季女裝以Art-Deco裝飾出若隱若現的唯美,不禁引人遐想,不過是否能引發如設計師所說的熱氣球旅行想像,則見仁見智;至少可以肯定,設計師以典雅裝的扮為靈感,只是大膽的透視設計使貴氣與煽情只有一線之隔,如拿捏不夠精準,也許會被誤認為情趣的一種表達。

Francesco Scognamiglio 本季運用顏色與刺繡帶出貴氣感。

Francesco Scognamiglio 本季運用顏色與刺繡帶出貴氣感。

除了大量的蕾絲和貼身剪裁表現出浪漫特質,也有設計師提出新女性宣言,Oversize、復古和科技感三者並存。No.21的2013春夏系列以強烈對比為主題,塑造出陽剛與陰柔、過去與未來的衝突感。寬鬆的設計搭配軟呢布料及新古典印花,No.21以上寬下窄的結構結合印花和繁複蕾絲,巧妙融合兩種極端。而向來以男裝聞名的John Richmond則在女裝上套用了男裝設計,同時以運用鏤空透視設計與薄紗素材襯托出女性魅力,並配上金色飾釘讓系列顯示俐落的風格。Fay本季嚮往60年代,選擇春天色彩搭配亮皮設計,運用復古髮型當做秀上亮點,使每位模特兒化身芭比娃娃。««

No.21 (左)本季主打上寬下窄的對比設計;John Richmond(中)用線條搭配出女性魅力;Fay(右)把模特兒塑造成芭比娃娃。

No.21 (左)本季主打上寬下窄的對比設計;John Richmond(中)用線條搭配出女性魅力;Fay(右)把模特兒塑造成芭比娃娃。

»»The first day of Milan is full with romanticism and sexiness. While using colorful palette to ignite the feeling of spring, delicate embroideries highlighted the first day of Milan. The first day of Milan 2013 SS collection created an elegancy and aristocracy sense. To begin with, Gucci created spring tunics and trousers with the ruffles of sleeve is the high light of their newest collection. Moreover, the karung motif was stamped on a crisp Japanese paper fabric while playing with spring colors. The finale of Gucci with evening gown definitely brought us back to Gucci’s glorious days. Speaking of delicacy, Alberta Ferretti is putting her imaginations in the world under the sea. While emphasizing communication of lightness, luminescence, and iridescence, the illusion created by layered organzas and beaded dresses turned every model to mermaids who live in the palace of the ocean.

This year’s Francesco Scognamiglio is all about esoteric. With the motif of the aristocrats from last century traveling on a hot air balloon, he used colors to ignite the feeling of nobility. Massive lace and sheer fabrics has been Francesco Scognamiglio 2013 SS collection’s main characters. While crafting out the aristocrats, perhaps the see-through design might give us the idea of temptation more than the elegancy he tried to create. No.21 is going contrast. While designer wanted to mix high and low, sportswear and lingerie, future and past, and masculine and feminine, the 2013 SS collection has clearly a trend of oversize on top with the tight fit design on bottom. In addition, John Richmond also emphasized on oversize in his 2013 SS collections. To wrap up, Fay is bringing us back to the 60’s to meet Barbies. With vintage design and the highlight of the special hairs style, Fay turned every model into a Barbie.  ««

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