米蘭2013春夏女裝特別報導之七:搶眼艷色 vs. 珍稀皮革
Milan SS Milan 2013 Women’s Collection Trend Report


東方元素成米蘭春夏伸展台主流。(由左至右:Giorgio Armani、Emilio Pucci、Etro)

東方元素成米蘭春夏伸展台主流。(由左至右:Giorgio Armani、Emilio Pucci、Etro)

»»2013米蘭春夏時裝週上演中日大戰,儘管皆系出東方,設計師卻對各自鍾愛的文化元素以服裝護航,大大豐富了設計樣貌與內涵。而跳脫春夏的粉嫩想像,螢光、霓虹色系成伸展台主流,柔美溫婉不再是女人首要,吸金指數才是正題。同樣搶眼的還有蟒蛇、鱷魚等稀有皮革,設計師大器的以整塊皮革製衣,或是以拼接手法點綴,不再以低調奢華手法掩飾女人與眾不同的渴求。

Trend 1  西體東用 東方元素強勢依舊
西方時尚引用東方元素已非新鮮事,面對現下中日對立,米蘭春夏伸展台也呈現出中、日風格對峙。Giorgio Armani以華麗的絲質布料重新詮釋中山裝。儘管長版翻領外套與寬鬆的打褶褲給人男性印象,但輕柔的布料卻在行走間吐露女模妖嬈曲線。Etro則將旗袍、長袍馬褂與武館功夫裝融入女裝設計,加上中國式的工筆花卉印花,展現設計師對中國文化的綺麗幻想。同樣傾中的還有Emilio Pucci,除卻設計師以刺繡手法在服裝上雕龍繡鳳不說,系列繫帶洋裝的梯形上身輪廓給人肚兜聯想,賦予中國古代女子內衣全新樣貌。Prada則獨排眾議偏好日本元素,刻意於西方服裝輪廓的基礎架構下,在袖口、領口與衣襬處注入和服輪廓,搭配上木屐印象的夾腳高跟鞋設計,讓眷戀藝妓服飾的女人多了造型選擇。

Mix-Match between East and West
Mixing eastern and western designs together are not news anymore. With the issue between China and Japan, the tense also rose on Milan’s runways by Giorgio Armani vs. Prada. The heavy Chinese tradition taste describes the style of Giorgio Armani SS 2013 collections. Using luxurious silk and neutral gender design, Armani well mixed the tradition from the east and fashion from the west. Etro also caught up with Giorgio Armani by fusing kung fu with high fashion. While using delicate embroidery to fixed dragon and phoenix on to their ready to wear collection, the lingerie design expressed the heavy sense of China. Prada, on the other hand, was all about Japan from head to toes. With geisha as their theme of the collection, the clogs exchanged for heels hint out the Japanese tradition fused with western culture.

東方元素於西方伸展台活躍。(由左至右:Prada、Etro、Emilio Pucci)

東方元素於西方伸展台活躍。(由左至右:Prada、Etro、Emilio Pucci)

Trend 2  跳脫粉嫩柔和 螢光、霓虹色澤爭豔
不願只做乖乖牌,2013春夏女裝要跳脫粉嫩柔和,企圖以螢光、霓虹等強烈色澤吸睛。Roberto Cavalli為薄透的雪紡紗與蕾絲染上搶眼檸檬黃,行走間彷彿隱隱透出小麥草香氣;Dsquared2維持一貫的叛逆性感,身上披披掛掛的金屬飾物與頂上充滿陽剛氣息的皮革警帽,卻與極度女性化桃紅短裙形成強烈對比。同樣洋溢濃重運動風,Blumarine以螢光粉紅為絲質繫帶褲裝點睛,Missoni將網狀背心染上漸層色彩,為整體造型注入摩登氣息。

Neon Colors
Heavy colors such as neon pink and yellow are the main characters of the 2013 SS Milan Fashion Show’s runways. Designers including Roberto Cavalli, Dsquared2, Blumarine, and Missoni used neon colors to express the youngness and sportiness of 2013. In addition, the rock punk style also conquered the stage by fusing metal with neon colors, creating an exotic fashion trend.

螢光色彩豐富了春夏女裝用色。(由左至右:Missoni、Blumarine、Dsquared2)

螢光色彩豐富了春夏女裝用色。(由左至右:Missoni、Blumarine、Dsquared2)

Trend 3  花團錦簇 可愛小花異軍突起
春夏是繁花盛開的時節,伸展台上也洋溢一片清新花香。Bottega Veneta一開場便祭出系列復古褐色碎花洋裝,本給人柔順印象的飄逸洋裝卻飾以具侵略性的皮革與鉚釘元素,活生生上演女人從順從到獨立的進化史。Dolce & Gabbana延續男裝的西西里島民格調,從平面印花到立體花飾都充滿了濃濃島國風情。Moschino將簡單輪廓的洋裝營造錯視口袋以及腰帶,加上童稚筆觸的花朵印畫,讓服裝呈現可愛童趣。Versus則選擇類似日式家徽的5瓣小花作為印花,但柔美的服裝卻由3分頭女模演繹,展現出強烈的衝突美感。

Floral Patterns
Flower is the icon of spring. Brands like Bottega Veneta, Dolce & Gabbana, Moschino, and Versus massively used floral patterns to create a sense of spring on their runways. While having leathers as the main material, the floral patterns of Bottega Veneta soften the mood to feminism. Dolce & Gabbana’s Sicily floral pattern brought out heavy Italia taste. Moschino’s clean cut dresses with cute floral patterns expressed a hint of childhood.

各式花卉印花是春夏女裝的季節象徵。(由左至右:Bottega Veneta、Dolce & Gabbana、Versus)

各式花卉印花是春夏女裝的季節象徵。(由左至右:Bottega Veneta、Dolce & Gabbana、Versus)

Trend 4  小人穿大衣 新強勢輪廓
寬大的繭型與箱型輪廓從今年秋冬延燒到明年春夏,設計師運用寬肩外套與羊腿、燈籠袖等寬大袖口,加重女人上身份量之餘,同時賦予強勢以及自我武裝的意念。堅持極簡的Jil Sander盡拋累贅裝飾,以7分羊腿袖上衣搭配鐘形及膝裙,腰際處束上寬版腰帶,呈現出的大色塊效果凸顯了輪廓的誇張;Marni與Sportmax不約而同選擇了皮外套搭配膝上裙,前者風格簡練,依稀可見的上衣口袋與裙襬縫線豐富了設計感;後者以寬大的騎士外套做為視覺重心,拉鍊裝飾則讓造型更添帥氣。

Oversize Design
The oversize design of tops shaped like cocoon is also a popular trend in Milan 2013 SS Fashion Week. While Jil Sander emphasized on simplism on their collection, Marni and Sportmax chose leather with oversize to abundant the design. The oversize design not only hinted out the neutral gender sense of fashion in 2013 SS season, but also played an essential character on the idea of feminism.

曲線不再是首要,寬大輪廓強勢。(由左至右:Jil Sander、Marni、Fendi)

曲線不再是首要,寬大輪廓強勢。(由左至右:Jil Sander、Marni、Fendi)

Trend 5  小露單肩 不對稱性感美學
為了不過份賣弄性感,設計師以露單肩的設計,低調描繪女性魅力。Gianfranco Ferré大刀闊斧的將洋裝的左半邊袖子除去,好似將襯衫從中剖半,再將裁切處縫合,成就新穎輪廓;Gucci則在不對稱長洋裝的領口與袖子處,運用層疊的荷葉邊裝飾大作文章;一向狂野的Versace也深暗此道,只在腰際以銀質流蘇堅守品牌的華麗基因;Alberta Ferretti則以黑色薄紗入服,貼身的裸色布料自黑紗縫隙隱隱透出,彷彿女神降臨的出塵氣質。

Unbalance
To avoid too much of nudity, designers love to play around with the idea of unbalance. Gianfranco Ferré cut out the sleeve of left warm to create a new sense of style while Gucci use the idea of unbalance on collars and sleeve designs. Versace followed up with the silver tassel belt to create such feeling and Alberta Ferretti use black silk to hint out the sexiness of collection.

單肩設計,委婉展現女人性感。(由左至右:Gianfranco Ferré、Versace、Alberta Ferretti)

單肩設計,委婉展現女人性感。(由左至右:Gianfranco Ferré、Versace、Alberta Ferretti)


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