米蘭2013春夏女裝特別報導之三:浪漫波西米亞 vs. 復古60經典
Milan SS2013 Women’s Collections: Romanic Bohemian vs. Vintage 60's


本日設計風格橫掃東西文化,復古和科技也都有所呈現。(左至右為Etro、Moschino、Sportmax)

本日設計風格橫掃東西文化,復古和科技也都有所呈現。(左至右為Etro、Moschino、Sportmax)

»»不同世代的女性總是設計師取經對象,Moschino在本季向60年代的奧黛麗赫本致意,而亞洲熱也不遑多讓,扣除前日Prada的變形和風,本日Etro也有搶眼表現,綜合了中國旗袍、日本和服等東方意象。Versace在不脫離性感標靶之下,玩起流浪粗獷的波西米亞風情,Blumarine與Just Cavalli等則流露妖嬌多媚的女人風貌,彰顯女性百變風情。

Versace的2013春夏男裝拳擊手形象,至今仍讓人印象深刻,深怕女裝也玩這招,還好帶點流浪意味的波西米亞情結與原始時代的自然野性,一同為Versace女裝鋪陳性感姿態。但別於前幾季講究的科技材質和立體雕塑線條,Donatella Versace這次從柔軟材質著手,蕾絲鏤空在2013春夏已司空見慣,不過Versace巧妙結合絲棉抓皺衣料,加以不規則狀的縫合處理,有時成為西裝外套裝飾,甚至拼接著皮褲,流露著不修邊幅的自然美感。中場的水染織料搭配著金銀流蘇,恍若走入奢華版的波西米亞世界,隨即而來的晚服仍不失品牌專注的窈窕纖姿,成功塑造永恆的性感女神。

Versace 2013春夏帶點波希米亞流浪色彩,同時不失品牌既有性感女人姿態。

Versace 2013春夏帶點波希米亞流浪色彩,同時不失品牌既有性感女人姿態。

Moschino 2013春夏系列則是向60 年代佳人代表、永遠的完美女神奧黛莉赫本致敬,以電影「儷人行」中、赫本飾演的角色喬安娜的戲服為靈感,讓本季春夏散發出濃濃復古味。設計師Rosella Jardini除了表現經典赫本輪廓之外,更融入雕塑藝術與精緻繁複的立體雕花,而大片印花及搶眼蕾絲也是本季設計重點之一,運用蕾絲點綴袖口及領口,網狀鏤空設計搭上本季春夏順風車,只是透視的性感氛圍消失了,反而因蕾絲皺褶綴飾顯得可愛,變化出多元的赫本風。

Moschino玩耍不同的奧黛麗赫本風格。

Moschino玩耍不同的奧黛麗赫本風格。

Etro 2013春夏以亞洲巡禮為設計初衷,設計師Veronica Etro從日本的柔道衣與和服、中國的旗袍、印度的沙麗、到土耳其式長袍,擷取靈感,藉由柔美的東方傳統服飾打底,加上複雜繩結及華麗配色,並且強調純手工繪製印花的精緻感,讓伸展台散發濃厚的東方味。現代氛圍濃厚的Iceberg,自然少不了龐克搖滾助陣,其融合了粗線編織工藝與粗獷金屬配飾,除此,系列中部份融入民族風花紋,讓Iceberg 2013春夏系列成功貫徹他們今季主題「搖滾、叛逆、藝術」。

Etro 2013(左與中)春夏從東方傳統尋找靈感,而Iceberg(右)則是尋求科技感。

Etro 2013(左與中)春夏從東方傳統尋找靈感,而Iceberg(右)則是尋求科技感。

看過女人的可愛甜美與流浪飄逸姿態,還想知道女人有多嬌媚浪漫,或許從Blumarine本季發表可嗅到一絲蹤跡。Blumarine維持品牌向來標榜的甜美特質,亮片、水晶鑽飾與印花等象徵浪漫素材,從未缺席,Anna Molinari讓女人永遠沉溺在愛情氛圍中想像衣裝,希臘女神的裹繞輪廓則不時隨著雪紡印花翩翩起舞。而主張青春活力的Just Cavalli,和前幾季變化不大,依舊拿出經典豹紋印花,隨著丹寧、落落大方的oversize,甚至是融入波希米亞風格,詮釋飄逸質感。

Just Cavalli 2013春夏(左與中)依舊見得到經典豹紋印花,而Blumarine(右)則是追求浪漫真諦。

Just Cavalli 2013春夏(左與中)依舊見得到經典豹紋印花,而Blumarine(右)則是追求浪漫真諦。

一向主打年輕活潑的Versus,圓點印花充斥整個系列同時,本季大玩塑料材質,隨鮮豔搶眼的彩虹色系共譜青春,特別的是Versus還使用了塑料編織成項鍊與上衣,充滿玩趣意味。而優雅至上的Gabriele Colangelo,拋開秋冬對Dior先生New Look的緬懷,改玩刷色處理,並運用大量漸層暈染及拼接藝術,以乾淨俐落的線條挑戰自我極限。而Sportmax保持一貫的運動風格,融入上季的硬紙質感和井字花紋,更以不對稱剪裁和鏤空處理,變化出冷調氛圍,迎接2013春夏來臨。««

Versus(左)呈現年輕活潑的風格,Gabriele Colangelo(中)大玩漸層效果,Sportmax(右)則呈現科技材質。

Versus(左)呈現年輕活潑的風格,Gabriele Colangelo(中)大玩漸層效果,Sportmax(右)則呈現科技材質。

»»As Milan Fashion Week goes on, many designers decided to reflect their respects on their works. For Moschino designed a collection based on 1960’s Audrey Hepburn, Etro paid their respect to all Asian traditions, Versace had fun with the Bohemian style, and Blumarine’s feminine collections.

Versace’s 2013 SS collection was playing with Bohemian and safari styles. Changed from previous season’s techy materials, Donatella Versace landed her ideas on the soft materials. With lace and riffles, the unbalance tailor with lingerie style has brought a sense of beauty in nature. In addition, the delicate embroidery and tassels brought out more of the Bohemian taste, which formed an unique sexiness on the collection. Moschino, on the other hand, chose Audrey Hepburn as the collection muse; the heavy 60’s atmosphere was surrounded during Moschino’s 2013 SS runway show. Furthermore on the vintage, the laces and patterns also created a sense of cuteness. The silhouette of the collection is reflecting the theme of their collection, “feeling good”. Etro 2013 SS collection brought us to Asia to experience one of the oldest traditions in the world. By emphasizing on hand-painted prints, designer Veronica Etro was playing a complete deny on futurism. The collection has embraced every tradition east of Bosporus, which includes intricate knotting, kimono and judo suit of Japan, One-shouldered swag of Indian sari, elegance of Chinese cheongsam, and attenuated line of Nepalese kurta.

Away from the traditions, Iceberg played the heavy cards on “part rock, part rebel, part aristo”. With heavy punk rock sense design decorated with metals and knitting, the collection reflected strong avant-garde and futurism. Blumarine, in contrast, was focusing on feminism. By using massive romantic materials, designer Anna Molinari let women who wear the collection turned to deities of Greek legends. Just Cavalli did not change much from the previous designs, still the leopard patterns, denim, and oversize design. Versus is keeping the beat up, with bead chain as their new idea, the creativities reflected a heavy sense of futurism. Gabriele Colangelo played around colors, layers was the key point of the design. Sportmax leave vintage, used many avant-garde ideas to create their new collection.««

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