米蘭2013春夏女裝特別報導之二:日本原宿女孩 vs.狩獵春裝
Milan SS2013 Women’s Collections: Harajuku Girls vs. Safari Springness


率性、可愛、優雅,屬於女人的描述形容詞,全在米蘭2013春夏發現蹤跡。(左至右為Prada、MaxMara、Emporio Armani)

率性、可愛、優雅,屬於女人的描述形容詞,全在米蘭2013春夏發現蹤跡。(左至右為Prada、MaxMara、Emporio Armani)

»»品牌分配均衡的米蘭時裝周,第二日大牌僅有Prada、MaxMara與Emporio Armani勉強撐場,可看度似乎有些低迷,不過瀏覽過Prada春夏日本奇想,忍者鞋高跟化、變形版和服,為版面鋪梗居多,Emporio Armani中規中矩地呈現Giorgio Armani招牌設計,MaxMara的狩獵狂想曲則帶來春日歡樂氣息。

Miuccia Prada最近挺異想天開,上季秋冬女裝詮釋裝飾主義和中性概念,春夏男裝則隨著奧運話題,上演運動男孩,這次女裝則是融入日本文化,帶來新氣象。姑且不論整體造型是否得宜,Miuccia Prada這次玩得有點兇,忍者鞋繫上蝴蝶緞帶,隨著金銀亮彩變得時髦有型,甚至改裝成涼鞋版,以及融合木屐、高跟鞋特質,小花點綴在接縫車邊,大有原宿街頭女孩cosplay的氛圍,也被譏稱是動漫火影忍者版。回過頭來看時裝設計,和服、日本摺紙元素充斥其間,更別提雛菊小花圖騰的立體縫製與印染處理,提升了層次,可惜的是為了呈現摺紙美感,似乎讓本該輕盈的春夏系列,在視覺上顯得有些笨重。

Prada的日式風範,挑戰女人的穿衣品味。

Prada的日式風範,挑戰女人的穿衣品味。

繼秋冬軍裝水手題材,大受好評後,MaxMara設計團隊在春夏表現依舊亮眼,將狩獵題材發揮妥當。上寬下窄的倒三角輪廓,oversize帶點寬鬆休閒姿態,加以大地自然裸色,首套女裝已交代清楚本季方向。而設計團隊刻意誇大肩線,穿插著羊腿袖,營造狩獵既有的粗獷本質,隨後連身衣裝依序登場,讓秋冬中性意象持續在春夏蔓延開來,除此,動物斑紋的鞋履提包更為本季帶來看頭,同時烘托著豹紋印花洋裝,自然野地氣息無比濃厚。

MaxMara 2013春夏主題明顯,鎖定在狩獵風情。

MaxMara 2013春夏主題明顯,鎖定在狩獵風情。

Emporio Armani給人的驚喜,該數設計師透過布料所表達出的律動感。一開場的中性裝扮活脫脫表現出品牌經典,尤其是格紋織料打造的西裝外套,讓人誤以為Emporio Armani春夏有意持續發揮男裝精神,但隨之而來的垂墜披掛,改變了既定典範。誠如設計師所言,這季要透過乾淨線條與絲柔觸感的織品,共同打造更為年輕氣質的新Emporio Armani女孩。大地裸色的輕柔感邂逅了薄紗絲質的抓皺處理,Giorgio Armani更不忘他摯愛的日本禪學,詮釋和式繫綁手法,轉作腰封設計,形塑新氣象。

Emporio Armani 2013春夏瀰漫飄逸氛圍。

Emporio Armani 2013春夏瀰漫飄逸氛圍。

本在紐約發表的Ports 1961,本季轉往米蘭搶攻媒體版面,設計師Fiona Cibani以層次與輕盈為題材,塑造在同色系不同質料上的堆疊技巧之外,透過不對稱結構拼接手法與寬垮線條,企圖製造行動間的飄逸律動。別於Ports 1961的現代視野,Piazza Sempione回到60年代晚期,延續2013早春印花圖騰和A字型剪裁,雖然只有短短12套發表,就市場實穿性來說,亦有其可看性。««

Piazza Sempione 2013春夏(左)以60年代晚期為設計靈感;Ports 1961(中與右)春夏流露清透飄逸姿態。

Piazza Sempione 2013春夏(左)以60年代晚期為設計靈感;Ports 1961(中與右)春夏流露清透飄逸姿態。

»»On the second day of Milan Fashion Week, the focus points are all about Prada, MaxMara, and Emporio Armani. Prada is playing around in Asia for their 2013 SS collection. While fusing clogs and heels and mixing ninja culture with fashion, Prada brought us to Japan to explore the beauty of Asian culture. Feeling a bit of cosplay, Prada gave us models with mix-math style as for harajuku girls. Flying away from Asia, MaxMara brought fashion to the safari. By using massive nature grounding colors, the oversize style and the sleeves hinted the sense of neutral genderness. Adding the pattern of leopard stripes, the runway appealed a heavy atmosphere of Africa.

Emporio Armani reminded us back to classical style through his designs. Especially the suit jacket has pointed out the neutral genderness, in addition of the clean stripes with silk and riffles. The natural color palette gave collection a fresh feeling of elegancy. American brand Ports 1961 came to Milan this year. Continuing the idea of lightness, the airy designs were right on the theme. Furthermore, Piazza Sempione is back to late 1960s, with A cutting and patterns, the collection was all about the sense of vintage.««

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