米蘭2013春夏女裝特別報導之六:多金嬌嬌女 vs. SM阻街女郎
Milan SS2013 Women’s Collections: Material Girls vs. SM Queens


無論SM情節或倡導春天繁花盛開的粉嫩遐想,都為來年春夏帶來無限衣著可能。(左至右為Dsquared²、Roberto Cavalli、Gianfranco Ferré)

無論SM情節或倡導春天繁花盛開的粉嫩遐想,都為來年春夏帶來無限衣著可能。(左至右為Dsquared²、Roberto Cavalli、Gianfranco Ferré)

»»莫怪Roberto Cavalli在網路放話嗆Giorgio Armani,因為若真沒有他hold住最後一日米蘭春夏發表,單靠Dsquared²獨撐大局,最後一日發表可說是形同虛設,媒體能見度更為低迷。而就在這絕地大反攻時間點,裸露養眼的SM情節現身Dsquared²春夏伸展台,Roberto Cavalli一口氣技壓全場,走出傳統經典豹紋印花,為女人溫柔優雅與嫵媚等多重性格,各別詮釋風華。

安排在Dsquared²之後演出的Roberto Cavalli,應該承受不小壓力,因為最後一天的米蘭春夏女裝發表,常是時尚記者準備打包前往巴黎的尷尬時刻,老實說Roberto Cavalli秀場布置不差,關鍵點在於時裝設計是否有新鮮感,每每都是印花皮革混搭野性豹紋,輪廓結構也無太大異動,往往差強人意,無法提振人心。不過這一次春夏可以感覺得出來Roberto Cavalli拚了老命,力圖呈現多元的品牌風格;蕾絲鏤空工藝從一開始數套雅白套裝可略見一二,因保留平面化壓印處理技巧同時,加入皮革雕花手法,讓鏤空處呈現3D立體視覺,最特殊的該是洞洞窄管褲,條紋編織鏤空令纖細美腿更加若隱若現。雪紡絲質的印花轉印,雖是品牌常見的蟒蛇豹紋,但因素材輕柔顯得更為飄逸。除此,幾套晚服精心挖空造型,幾乎衣不蔽體的裸露手法,沒有腰身的還請勿輕易嘗試,避免腰間肥油贅肉跑出來見客。

Roberto Cavalli 2013春夏帶來繁複印花與輕盈視覺感受。

Roberto Cavalli 2013春夏帶來繁複印花與輕盈視覺感受。

若要說性感,Dsquared²本季嗅得出「重口味」。機車皮夾克、金屬鎖鍊、警察帽等重裝配備穿套在熱褲迷你裙與小可愛混搭的性感女郎身上,正義與罪惡的極端衝擊,SM情色意味相當厚重,如果行徑再偏差些,跟阻街女郎沒兩樣。設計師Dean與Dan Caten 表示2013春夏靈感來自80年代末至90年代初期,整體形象則是融入當時主流時尚,如Moschino、Versace與Chanel等風範,因此丹寧熱褲的金屬鍊混搭搖滾配飾,機車皮夾克扣除銀光漆皮處理,也加入媲美Gianni Versace時代的華麗刺繡雕花,而文字塗鴉所帶來的俏皮意象,則是大方地在T恤印製設計師的姓氏,混淆視聽,讓整體系列顯得趣味至極也話題十足。

Dsquared² 2013春夏SM話題明顯。

Dsquared² 2013春夏SM話題明顯。

好不容易從破產陰霾走出迎向陽光的Gianfranco Ferré,近來為了爭權也官司纏身,米蘭時裝周期間更傳出Gianfranco Ferré總部將搬離原深耕的城市,遷移他處,弄得品牌上下烏煙瘴氣;即便已更換設計師,但幾季表現下來似乎仍不如預期。雙人設計師Federico Piaggi 與Stefano Citron秉持著原創者的建築雕塑概念以及獨特的剪裁手法,為2013春夏譜曲,簡潔俐落的線條流暢有餘,可惜圓滑不足,反而讓女裝顯得有些僵硬生澀,該有的性感或優雅姿態,卻在曖昧不明間無法伸張。而本該彰顯的立體皺褶,卻未見應有層次,建築天際線的張力顯得平淡。唯一的驚喜度該是蟒蛇皮紋與其他皮革的拼接處理,讓整場發表節奏稍有起伏。

Gianfranco Ferré的雙人設計師想用精湛的剪裁宣示品牌精髓,功效見仁見智。

Gianfranco Ferré的雙人設計師想用精湛的剪裁宣示品牌精髓,功效見仁見智。

見著Dsquared²的性感外放,Roberto Cavalli的自然性情與Gianfranco Ferré冷酷世界,Luisa Beccaria的民俗風顯得大相逕庭,表露另一種甜美氣質。Luisa Beccaria 2013春夏帶點復古版的波西米亞流浪味道,整體造型設計則走向巴西熱帶海灘當地住民穿著,繫綁著頭巾、大量蕾絲皺褶蛋糕裙,無論是玫瑰印花或條紋風,長裙曳地搖擺生姿,但不知是做工粗糙還是選的布料有問題,令人無法像汽車電視廣告中的彭于晏所說那樣,觸動心弦,只得說Luisa Beccaria既非標榜摩登自我女人的菜,也不是她們的愛。««

Luisa Beccaria的波西米亞風有如睡衣大集合。

Luisa Beccaria的波西米亞風有如睡衣大集合。

»»We cannot really blame Roberto Cavalli’s blog entry on Giorgio Armani since he really held up the last day of Milan Fashion Week. While being after Dsquared²’s show, Roberto Cavalli really tried his best on elaborate the concepts of 2013 SS collections. Exquisite leopard patterns, leathers, and mix-match were all included in Roberto Cavalli’s 2013 SS show. In addition, lace and airy designs were also seen in the details of the dress. The curvature of floral patterns are so detailed that a 3D illusion was achieved. The most special part was the holey-holes pants, the stripes have well decorated out a sense of sexiness. For the material, Chiffon and pythons are the main character of his SS collection show. With the careful and delicate cut of the dress, girl without waste do not try them on easily.

Talking about heaviness, Dsquared² is going all hard metal. With leather, metal, police cap, hot mini skirt, and tank top’s mix match, the idea of contrasting good and bad was well expressed on the runway. Designer Dean and Dan Caten noted that the collection was inspired from the late 80’s to the early 90’s style. Like Moschino, Versace, and Chanel, the denim and metal decoration’s combination with delicate embroidery patterns. While adding fake logo on the shirts, the collections were a fun show to watch.

Gianfranco Ferré were still on their low point. With designers Federico Piaggi and Stefano Citron, the collection of 2013 SS season are clean but not attractive enough. Lacking of sexiness and elegancy were the worst failure of the collection. Riffles were not well tailored lead to unclear layers. The only good part about the collection is the python and other leather’s handling. Luisa Beccaria’s vintage Bohemian taste was strongly expressed on their runway. But the lack of delicate tailoring skill was also««

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