米蘭2013秋冬女裝特別報導7:經典元素改頭換面 老牌煥發青春
Milan FW 2013 Women’s Collection Trend Report


從皮草到「The New Look」,本季經典元素皆有新花樣。(由左至右:Marni、Dolce & Gabbana、Emporio Armani)

從皮草到「The New Look」,本季經典元素皆有新花樣。(由左至右:Marni、Dolce & Gabbana、Emporio Armani)

»»「回歸經典」在甫落幕的米蘭時裝周中,成為首要課題,不論是上世紀中的高級訂製大師、米蘭當家的皮草、基本的毛呢布料,或是老式英倫格紋,皆在伸展台上煥發青春。在熟悉的材質與技法面前,要如何保持新鮮感便是最大難題,而眾老牌設計師也紛紛突破自我,推出舒適圈外的作品,成為本季最大看點。

Trend 1 裁剪匠心獨運 重現訂製風華
在以經典女人味為主軸的2013秋冬米蘭時裝周,上世紀40至50年代的高級訂製經典,便是重設計師鑽研的對象。本季開場的Gucci,一一細數Christian Dior與Cristobal Balenciaga等大師名作;回歸品牌後漸入佳境的Jil Sander,則取用40年代的寬肩窄身輪廓,與別出心裁的剪接線配置,展現雕塑布料的功力;Dolce & Gabbana在一片金碧輝煌之下,亦以「The New Look」的纖腰豐臀作為系列骨幹。Giorgio Armani與Emporio Armani本季主打日式設計的同時,仍以箱型輪廓貫穿全秀;Max Mara誇張Oversize大衣,源頭也非繭形大衣莫屬;而Moschino和Antonio Marras本季在英倫風的包裝下,也皆一片式的無肩線外套,炫耀剪裁技法。

Trend 1 Classic Haute Silhouette
From Gucci, Jil Sander, Dolce & Gabbana, Max Mara, to Moschino, there are lements of 40s to 50s’ haute couture design hinted within. For Christian Dior and Cristobal Balenciaga’s classic designs were shown in Gucci, Jil Sander focused on the 40s’ tight cut silhouette. In addition, Dolce & Gabbana’s successful New Look and Giorgio, Emporio Armani’s Japanese styles are also focused on the boxy silhouette. While MaxMara leaned to Orversize, Moschino and Antonio Marras’s shoulderless British style earned the standing ovations for their delicate cuts. 

經典高級訂製線條成為本季重點。(由左至右:Gucci、Dolce & Gabbana、Jil Sander)

經典高級訂製線條成為本季重點。(由左至右:Gucci、Dolce & Gabbana、Jil Sander)

Trend 2 迷彩拼接雷射切割 皮草玩出新花樣
作為米蘭秋冬的招牌材質,皮草本季捲土重來,卸下老氣、厚重的刻板印象,以出人意表的色澤、剪裁煥發新生。Karl Lagerfeld在Fendi的表現,無愧於品牌雙F標誌的「Fun Fur」之名,拼接而成的「皮草迷彩」與色澤鮮艷的條紋裝飾,令人眼前一亮;同以皮草起家的Marni,本季推出的短披肩,配上品牌嫩色調印花,也不脫俏麗;而Prada袖口的皮草裝飾,也成為本季焦點所在。另一方面,Emporio Armani在皮草上以雷射鏤刻圖紋、Blumarine幾襲垂直裁切的毛皮大衣,以及Sportmax的「鬆餅」皮草格紋,皆帶來意外的表面質感。在Jil Sander與Ter et Bantine,皮草以幾何色塊拼接,擺脫浮華奢靡,與現代極簡接軌;而Antonio Marras一套連身鹿皮裝,則讓皮草找回原始狩獵的質樸趣味。

Trend 2 Military, Furs, and Leathers
Karl Lagerfeld’s Fendi has not let down its nickname “Fun Fur”. With collage of military fur, it brightens the eyes of audiences with a fresh of fashion. Following Fendi, Marni’s secoration, Prada’s sleeves, Emporio Armani’s prints on furs, Blumarine’s coats, Sportmax’s waffle pattern, Jil Sander and Ter et Bantine’s fur collage filled the Milan catwalks with furs along with Antonio Marra’s hunting collections. 

皮草在本季展現意想不到的青春面貌。(由左至右:Fendi、Emporio Armani、Sportmax)

皮草在本季展現意想不到的青春面貌。(由左至右:Fendi、Emporio Armani、Sportmax)

Trend 3 毛呢天鵝絨 老氣布料獲新生
經典剪裁當道的同時,傳統布料的舞台也頓時寬廣起來。在Bottega Veneta,Tomas Maier以精妙的打褶技法抓出肩部、腰際的立體裝飾,將再無聊不過的毛料法蘭絨化為一朵朵繁花;在Prada,僅是小露香肩,加上精巧的布紋變化,Miuccia Prada也令老氣的斜紋毛料頓生性感;而Dolce & Gabbana在一片馬賽克鑲嵌與紅寶石之間,穿插的幾套灰色毛呢套裝,也為系列增添幾分真實感。一向顯得厚重的天鵝絨,也在本季變得輕盈,Dsquared2本季一襲純黑全長吸菸裝,找回40年代的爵士舞廳的瀟灑率性;Max Mara的幾套運動衫,也為天鵝絨開發出隨意新穿搭;而Giorgio Armani與Alberta Ferretti所推出的天鵝絨晚禮服,則讓我們回味其久違的高貴氣息。

Trend 3 Classic Fabric Revival
The focus on classic cuts has also led to an interest in classic fabrics, ranging from flannel to velvet. At Bottega Veneta and Prada, Tomas Maier and Miuccia used their little cutting quirks to transform the old wool into a new breed. Meanwhile, velvet also enjoyed a breeze of fresh air at DSquared2, Max Mara and Giorgio Armani, where the fabric has been applied to various less formal settings.

毛料、天鵝絨等老式布料,本季重新成為矚目焦點。(由左至右:Prada、Bottega Veneta、Dsquared2)

毛料、天鵝絨等老式布料,本季重新成為矚目焦點。(由左至右:Prada、Bottega Veneta、Dsquared2)

Trend 4 英倫風吹拂米蘭 傳統格紋發燒
第二次世界大戰戰後掀起的英倫熱,很大程度上造就了義大利服裝產業今日的榮景,本季設計師在回顧上世紀中的同時,也不忘祭出各式英倫經典格紋,為系列增添一分原汁原味。Moschino本季繆思Ann Bonfoey Taylor雖為純正美國人,品牌本季鉅細靡遺地重現的馬術裝,從蘇格蘭紋(Tartan)到金縷紋章,則不脫英倫傳統;Antonio Marras取材自20世紀初英倫文化圈「Bloomsbury Group」的系列,從威爾斯王子格紋(Prince of Wales Check)、鄉村印花到腳下厚厚的羊毛襪,也皆流露純正英國味。Aquilano Rimondi的「愛麗絲夢遊仙境」系列,除了充斥紅心黑桃外,也不外乎是毛圈呢與黑紅格紋的天下;而Versace的「Vunk」若少了那搶眼的黃黑格紋,更是怎樣也龐克不起來。而No. 21以頹廢搖滾為主軸的系列,與Alberto Ferretti主打的中歐風情,也各自以或叛逆或典雅的角度,探索垂直水平交織的魅力。

Trend 4 Anglomania
The anglomania back in the 40s sure helped to build Italy’s menswear tradition, this time however, it is its womenswear that is celebrating Britain’s rich culture. That starts at Moschino’s riding attire, through Antonio Marras’s Bloomsbury Group, down the rabbit hole of Aquilano Rimondi’s rendition of Alice in Wonderland, then arriving at Versace’s “Vunk” collection. The richness of tartans and Prince of Wales check however does not stop there, as a number of label also came out with less overtly related, but nevertheless British weaves.

從鄉村到龐克,英倫格紋發燒。(由左至右:Antonio Marras、Moschino、Aquilano Rimondi)

從鄉村到龐克,英倫格紋發燒。(由左至右:Antonio Marras、Moschino、Aquilano Rimondi)

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