米蘭2013秋冬男裝特別報導之四:亞裔男模抬頭 龍的傳人佔領伸展台
Milan 2013 Men’s Collections: The Rise of Asian Models


米蘭2013秋冬男裝週場外的人們,打扮絲毫不比伸展台男模遜色。

米蘭2013秋冬男裝週場外的人們,打扮絲毫不比伸展台男模遜色。

»»米蘭2013秋冬男裝週進入尾聲,在媒體極欲告別義大利,挺進巴黎的同時,設計師無不使出渾身解數,只求時尚編輯暫停腳步。除了服裝精彩,場上男模也成焦點,除了黑人模特兒,亞裔男模也於西方時尚圈站穩腳步。此外,當攝影師Bill Cunningham帶起街拍風潮後,秀場外素人的穿著也成為時裝週不可不注意的一環,大大增加今日報導的趣味性。

Dsquared2炒作種族議題,讓模特兒界的弱勢族群主導整場秀,只見伸展台上清一色黑人模特兒,名模 David Agbodji也現身其中。Dsquared2 一直非常擅長將正式裝束混搭街頭元素,2013秋冬主推休閒味十足的寬鬆下身,混搭合身俐落的襯衫、針織衫穿著,再搭配放大版費多拉帽(fedora),莊重又不失趣味的造型,由黑人男模演繹,自是再適合也不過。

由名模 David Agbodji(左)領軍,黑人男模全面佔領Dsquared2 2013秋冬男裝伸展台。

由名模 David Agbodji(左)領軍,黑人男模全面佔領Dsquared2 2013秋冬男裝伸展台。

而西方模特兒圈另一弱勢族群:亞裔男模,也越來越受到重視,在Giorgio Armani、Diesel Black Gold與Rocco Barocco秀場,亞裔男模比例越來越高,而除了常見的熟面孔如趙磊、郝允祥、傅正剛外,許多新面孔也趁勢竄起,在伸展台上演民族大熔爐戲碼。

在2013秋冬米蘭男裝伸展台,許多亞裔男模都是新面孔。(由左至右:Diesel Black Gold、Rocco Barocco、Giorgio Armani)

在2013秋冬米蘭男裝伸展台,許多亞裔男模都是新面孔。(由左至右:Diesel Black Gold、Rocco Barocco、Giorgio Armani)

而米蘭2013秋冬男裝週最後一天,儘管發表品牌數量少,但還是讓evoke編輯動了列購物清單的念頭。秉著在經典造型中混搭街頭、運動元素;實穿但不失創意的穿衣準則,evoke編輯首推Dsquared2的寬鬆牛仔褲與及踝登山靴,上身只需搭配舊有的針織衫、襯衫或西裝外套,就非常有型。至於五顏六色的費多拉帽,由於趣味成分偏高,致使實搭度下降,因此只有口袋閒錢過重或中樂透大獎,才會考慮。再是2013秋冬的強勢單品:毛毛外套,如Giorgio Armani幾何紋連帽毛外套,或螺紋毛大衣,都是不錯選擇。而Diesel Black Gold羊毛大衣搭配T-shirt、西裝褲的造型,則多了幾許搖滾氣息,也是不錯的穿搭建議。

evoke編輯今日的購物清單出爐,包含Giorgio Armani的毛外套(左)、Diesel Black Gold的羊毛大衣(右),以及Dsquared2的寬鬆牛仔褲與及踝登山靴(中)。

evoke編輯今日的購物清單出爐,包含Giorgio Armani的毛外套(左)、Diesel Black Gold的羊毛大衣(右),以及Dsquared2的寬鬆牛仔褲與及踝登山靴(中)。

除了秀場吸睛,場外的型人穿搭也非常有看頭。在Tommy Ton鏡頭下,Anna dello Russo依舊貫徹「一日一新裝」原則,但從先前的誇張搞怪,蛻變成中性優雅。難以駕馭的Saint Laurent Paris 2013春夏超窄版Le Smoking,在Anna dello Russo身上也別有一番風味,不比模特兒遜色。今日她則以一身亮橘套裝搭配鮮黃手拿包亮相,雖少了奇裝異服,但光彩依舊。被譽為最會穿衣服男人之一的Nick Wooster,則以襯衫、背心、格紋拼接西裝的3件式造型現身,走紳士路線。

Anna dello Russo今日穿上亮橘套裝亮相。

Anna dello Russo今日穿上亮橘套裝亮相。

此外,除了基因優良的男模與追逐時尚的花美男非常可口,場外許多蓄起落腮鬍的性格男,也異常搶眼。無論是俐落的鬍渣造型,或是如回教徒般茂密的鬍鬚扮相,都讓男人的「面子」更有看頭。同時預示著,流溢Man味的蓄鬍形象,已悄悄形成一股流行風潮。««

流露頹廢意味的鬍鬚扮相正悄悄形成一股風潮。

流露頹廢意味的鬍鬚扮相正悄悄形成一股風潮。

»»Today’s Milan is full of races. While white models are standing shaky as the mainstream, Black and Asian are rising up in Milan’s last day. In Dsquared2, Black models have shined on the catwalk with the leading of David Agbodji. While the designer used mix-matched elements to representing the colorful theme, the Black models giving the collection perfect tone to emphasize the style. In addition of shirts, wools, and fedora, it kept both elegancy and fun. On the other hand, Giorgio Armani, Diesel Black Gold, and Rocco Barocco are all going Asian. With Zhao lei, Jerry Fu, Sean Zhang, and Hao Yun Xiang are all appeared, there are also many new Asian faces spotted within the models.

For today’s choice, Dsquared2’s mix-matched jeans with wools, shirts, and blazers are the number one choice of the day. For the colorful fedora, as it is hard to match with the other clothes, we do not add them in for the suggesting list. In addition, the fur jacket, like Giorgio Armani, Diesel Black Gold…etc., are all great items for fashion.

Outside of fashion shows, the street captures are also great in fashion. Through Tommy Ton’s lenses, Anna Dello Russo’s one day per dress stands out from weirdness to neutral feminism. Nick Wooster, on the other hand, was going gentlemen style, making the top for men’s street style. In addition, the beard has been a new trend of fashion for many men to wear it for fashion week. As we observe the street style, we can also find muses for our fashion matches. ««

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