精湛皮革工藝 Guidi極致低調
Guidi Reviving Italian Artisanship


Guidi出品的皮靴。

Guidi出品的皮靴。

»»位於義大利托斯卡尼的小鎮上,義大利皮革品牌Guidi的工坊不像是一般人印象中的皮革廠,而更像是電影中,義大利世家大族的宅邸。在1896年由Guido Guidi、Giovanni Rosellini和Gino Ulivo創立的Guidi鞣革廠,至今仍堅持重質不重量,提供小眾設計師獨特的皮革;而由家族目前傳人Ruggero Guidi接下祖傳事業後,推出的皮件與鞋款系列,在時尚界也廣受推崇。

自然皺摺與色澤變化是Guidi皮革的最大特色。

自然皺摺與色澤變化是Guidi皮革的最大特色。

在看到Guidi皮件時,總會受其斑駁的自然皺摺與層次豐富的色澤所吸引。使用中世紀所傳下來的全手工鞣革工藝,再加上Ruggero Guidi接手後,所引進的高科技染製技術,使得Guidi的出品,不論是尋常的牛、馬與羊皮,或是鱷魚、蜥蜴、蛇、魟魚等珍稀皮革,都觸感柔軟細膩並經久耐用。此外,Guidi更是全世界僅有四家提供馬臀皮(Shell Cordovan)的皮革廠之一,這種每匹馬出產僅兩個巴掌大的珍品,以卓越的堅韌度與超過半年的複雜製程聞名;而Guidi更首創處理馬臀翻皮的手法,使馬臀皮脫離過於油亮的質感,而能應用在更多不同的單品上。

一般的馬臀皮製品(左)與Guidi出品的馬臀翻皮製品(右)。

一般的馬臀皮製品(左)與Guidi出品的馬臀翻皮製品(右)。

Guidi在2004年也開始推出自家鞋款與包款。不同於義大利時尚品牌給人固有的華麗印象,Guidi的出品將低調奢華的概念詮釋到極致:使用自家頂級皮革,在義大利工匠採傳統固特異(Goodyear Welted)與銅釘工法,經過超過190道工序製作以後,整雙鞋進入滾筒染製,並裡裡外外都經過手工做舊,自然陰乾數週後才能出廠。如此大費周章,只為了讓新鞋穿起來就像舊鞋般自然舒適。Ruggero Guidi也表示自己的設計中斑駁的質感深受瑞士雕塑家Alberto Giacometti的影響,表現義大利不為人知的陰鬱面。

Carol Christian Poell使用Guidi皮革的機車皮衣。

Carol Christian Poell使用Guidi皮革的機車皮衣。

這種自然的古舊質感也讓Guidi受到不少設計師的青睞,如奧地利籍設計師Carol Christian Poell就堅持使用Guidi馬皮製作皮衣,堅韌中帶有柔軟的質感,與Poell稜角分明的剪裁相得益彰;同樣以皮衣聞名的暗黑系教主Rick Owens,在2007年也曾選用Guidi皮革;而日本小眾品牌Kazuyuki Kumagai、Devoa和Individual Sentiments等,都是Guidi皮革的愛用者。此外不少名人也是Guidi的忠實簇擁,如布萊德彼特和裘德洛都經常在街拍中,以Guidi皮靴示人;而黑眼豆豆與Olsen姐妹花等,也都曾穿著Guidi皮革製成的皮衣參加活動。««


Guidi鞋包何處買?

H. Lorenzo
http://shop.hlorenzo.com/MENS-A1923-AUGUSTA/?subCatid=253&pid=252

Ink Hong Kong
http://www.ink-clothing.com/test2/content_guidi/0/

Lazzari
http://www.lazzariweb.it/shop/guidi-m-38.html?osCsid=ee3d93d3c071b8ddb3877591e187ecf7

PNP Firenze
http://www.pnp-firenze.com/wp/?portfolio=shoes


»»Founded in 1896 by Guido Guidi, Giovanni Rosellini and Gino Ulivo, the Guidi tannery in Tuscany has supplied leather of the highest quality throughout the century. Incorporating traditional tanning techniques that can be dated back to the 14th century with modernized equipments, Guidi leather became a favorite of designers and fashionistas alike.

The distinctive ripples and color variations achieved through small batch dyeing and hand processing, became a staple of Guidi and could be found on calf, lambskin and horse hide as well as exotic alligator, snakes and stingrays. Guidi is also notably one of the only four tanneries in the world to possess the secret of shell cordovan tanning, a leather known for its strength and patina.

To play its artisanal tradition to the fullest, Guidi also started in recent years its own shoes and bags lines, which combines traditional goodyear welting constructions with thorough manual distressing process, which results in a perfect balance between elegance and ruggedness.

Many designers use Guidi leathers exclusively for its one of a kind characters, Austrian born Italian based designer Carol Christian Poell used Guidi horsehides to create his iconic perfecto jackets, while Rick Owens also used it on some of his shoes in 2007.««

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