紐約2013春夏女裝特別報導之八:摩登性感討喜 異國風激發無限想像
New York SS 2013 Women’s Collections: Modern and Sexy, Foreigness Inspire Imaginations


該一身素雅亦或色彩斑斕,成為女人春夏重要課題。(由左至右:Ralph Lauren、Calvin Klein、Brood)

該一身素雅亦或色彩斑斕,成為女人春夏重要課題。(由左至右:Ralph Lauren、Calvin Klein、Brood)

»»紐約2013春夏女裝週最後一天,壓軸品牌Calvin Klein、Ralph Lauren皆表現亮眼。前者以黑白色調貫穿全場,低調詮釋都會女子的性感優雅。後者放肆想像,於伸展台上演西班牙與南美民族融合戲碼。新銳品牌Brood十分爭氣,展現精湛的印花運用技法,讓秀場花香四溢。Giulietta則回歸海水懷抱,大玩海底生物角色扮演,以歡欣掌聲作為紐約時裝週片尾曲。

「性感、女性化、都會、優美、精煉。」是設計師Francisco Costa對本季Calvin Klein的服裝詮釋。延續2012秋冬女裝的內斂性感,從錐形胸腺、S型腰身的輪廓線,以及具透視感的紗質布料運用,皆可看出端倪。開場的黑色及膝洋裝,乍看之下好似米老鼠在深U領冒出頭來,但設計師巧妙的以銀色布料收邊,加上同色系不同質感布料的拼接設計,讓服裝展現都會優雅。而系列波紋、馬賽克與魚鱗圖樣的鏤空洋裝取代了常見的蕾絲刺繡洋裝,成為本季Calvin Klein重點單品。讓系列服裝充滿前衛細節同時,也兼具時穿性。

Calvin Klein以Carolyn Bessette Kennedy作為繆斯,讓系列服裝呈現都會優雅風情。

Calvin Klein以Carolyn Bessette Kennedy作為繆斯,讓系列服裝呈現都會優雅風情。

Ralph Lauren本季來了一趟西班牙及拉丁美洲之旅。「那些遙遠的、充滿異國風情的國度總是影響著我。我可能從未到過那裡,但在我幻想中經歷的旅程卻極度真實。」是故設計師將腦海中的一切都搬上伸展台,覆滿繁複裝飾的鬥牛士短外套與高腰貼身長褲;佛朗明哥舞者的華麗舞服;以及色彩斑斕的牧羊人針織披風等,讓系列服裝充滿高度戲劇性。但設計師並未被幻想沖昏頭,幾套做工精緻的Le Smoking,與名模karlie kloss身上襯衫與刺繡長裙的搭配,巧妙將服裝風格走向拉回現實。

Ralph Lauren本季充滿濃濃西班牙與南美風情。

Ralph Lauren本季充滿濃濃西班牙與南美風情。

新銳品牌Brood為紐約時裝週的尾聲注入一股新穎活力,以倫敦藝術家Antony Gormley的雕塑與玫瑰畫作為靈感來源,於伸展台呈現繁花盛開景象。土耳其裔設計師Serkan Sarier運用各式玫瑰印花布料與花卉蕾絲的組合,營造繁複的視覺效果。由襯衫變形而來的洋裝造型,搭配品牌常見的拉鍊裝飾與萬用口袋設計,讓系列服裝散發出倫敦式的前衛作風。

Brood大玩花布混搭,給人耳目一新感觸。

Brood大玩花布混搭,給人耳目一新感觸。

Giulietta本季沉潛到海底世界,設計師 Sofia Sizzi設計一系列海水色調禮服,並於其上營造出波紋效果點名主旨。此外,孔雀綠亮片禮服華麗如美人魚;曜黑寶石裝飾的運用則是對甲殼生物藤壺的詮釋。加上可愛的蝦兵蟹將印花,以及形似金魚接吻的誇張墨鏡設計,讓整場秀有如龍宮辦派對一般,異常熱鬧喧囂。««

Giulietta以海底世界為題,讓系列服裝既優雅又充滿趣味性。

Giulietta以海底世界為題,讓系列服裝既優雅又充滿趣味性。

»»The last song was sung in New York last night as the curtain of the fashion week is fallen. The last but not least brands presenting were Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren while they pulled off a fantastic ending for the 2013 New York Fashion Week. The feminism elegancy was presented through the genius mixture of black and white in the hands of Calvin Klein as Ralph Lauren used Spanish and South American culture to present a foreign taste of fashion. In additions to their glamor, Broods and Giulietta used their creativities to stun the audiences, made an immense impression to mark the perfect ending for New York 2013 Fashion Week.

“Sexiness, feminism, modern, civilized, elegant, and confident” is the impressions Francisco Costa created for Calvin Klein’s new collections in SS 2013. Through mosaic and wavy patterns and material styled with decorations such as flakes and similar color palette, Calvin Klein presented a modern working female’s fashion wardrobe. On the other hand, Ralph Lauren presented a collection full with Latino taste. From Flamingo to Shippers, the designers brought the entire Spain image into the collections to create a passionate SS 2013. The newcomer, Brood, gave a fresh push to the 2013 New York Fashion Week, by taking roses and sculptures as the Turkish designer’s, Serkan Sarier, inspiration, the complicate but exquisite vision was created on the runways last night through the design of British but avant-garde style. Moreover, Giulietta brought their fashion under the sea. Through designer of the brand, Sofia Sizzi’s hand, the ocean color palette of the style was presented with mermaid curvature of the collections, turned the catwalk to a path in the palace of princess mermaids.««

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