紐約2012秋冬女裝特別報導之一: 首日品牌齊吹中性風
New York FW2012 Women’s Collections: Unisex Hit the Runway


Steven Alan的秋冬系列以暗色調呼應當歐美經濟不穩定的蕭條陰影。

Steven Alan的秋冬系列以暗色調呼應當歐美經濟不穩定的蕭條陰影。

»»2012秋冬女裝發表,首先在紐約開跑,本日揭幕的系列中,品牌與設計新銳皆不約而同以雌雄莫辨的中性寬鬆風格為主調,各自找出他們在秋冬暗色系中的獨特定位。

選擇在紐約MoMa舉辦展示會,Steven Alan的秋冬瀰漫著低迷氛圍。以墨西哥畫家Diego Rivera的勞工意象為靈感,服裝又有些1930年代大蕭條的陰影,設計師似乎認為本季女性不應有天真爛漫的一面,而是在暗色調的毛呢外套、軍裝長夾克、條紋毛料過膝裙與長褲中,詮釋略帶中性的肅穆氣氛。而同時發表的男裝也與刻板印象中挺拔的男性剛強背道而馳,反而以柔軟的西裝線條與略貼身的毛呢長褲,與在場的女模特兒共譜中性奏鳴曲。

澳洲設計師Michael Angel也以中性風格為主軸,但並非回溯歷史而是要帶人們走向未來。Michael Angel以精湛的數位印花技巧驚豔伸展台,告別上季的纖細摩登埃及風,這回以迷幻暈染的印花搭配直筒或繭型寬鬆的輪廓,塑造出帶點運動與未來感的率性中性女裝。藍灰色調的抽象圖案以一種「無規則」的方式蔓延在直筒洋裝與及膝裙上,對比外罩極粗毛線織成的寬鬆外套或上衣,形成科技未來感與濃厚毛線手感的對比。而灰毛料的繭型外套,雖有點Balenciaga招牌的建築維度,但優雅的淑女並不復見,連帽與開襟拉鍊處理,將圓弧狀的外套空間校正回運動中性的未來趨向。

Michael Angel的未來感印花世界中,即使身著裙裝,女模仍帶有俐落帥勁。

Michael Angel的未來感印花世界中,即使身著裙裝,女模仍帶有俐落帥勁。

各家詮釋的中性基調就如同黑到白的灰階,總有偏白的米灰或濃重的深灰,而Organic的中性則比起上述品牌再多點女性甜味。設計師John Patrick告別春夏上季的運動風,讓這季Organic以略帶朦朧的懷舊,帶領進入他所謂的1880年代美麗夢境(A Beautiful Vision)。中腰洋裝上的復古碎花或毛絨絨的編織毛衣,帶出少女纖細的柔美,但隨即又穿插深色皮革單品,以挺拔的線條再把系列基調校正回中性氛圍。不管是軟皮褐色洋裝或手套,搭配毛呢長大衣、毛料短外套或夾克,甚至讓女身穿上帥氣寬版褲裝,設計師運用材質與印花組合,調出兼具男孩與女孩的軟調中性風格。

Organic雖號稱19世紀朦朧唯美,但皮革單品又使此系列具有些中性風味。

Organic雖號稱19世紀朦朧唯美,但皮革單品又使此系列具有些中性風味。

從加州起家而現今在紐約下東區經營品牌的男裝設計師Greg Armas,在本季首次發表品牌 Assembly New York的女裝系列。設計師一項秉持這品牌應是以「男女皆宜」的基本萬搭款為主,而這季女裝也呼應此原則;在灰黑米等低彩度單品組合下,長洋裝、近乎曳地長褲裙與超長大衣,讓冬日毛料營造了穩定的建築空間感,再搭配宛若Amish男性長戴的黑扁帽,女模恍若以寬鬆肅穆的服飾替這超越性別的中性時尚信仰傳教。««

Assembly New York首季的女裝系列有種宗教肅穆感。

Assembly New York首季的女裝系列有種宗教肅穆感。

»»As usual, New York is the first stop of the following fashion weeks. There were no well-known big names on the first day, but those brands and designers shared a similar style: the unisex look.

Steven Alan’s fall collection for women might echo the looming economic depression for the present time. With heavy color tune, the designer made those closet staples for women to portrait a mannish look. Tweeds blazers, woolen long skirts, knit cardigan and greatcoats all hid the feminine softness away while the male model were in soft-lined suits that let the whole show became really androgynous.

Michael Angel also manipulated his signature digital print to portrait a neutral look. Futuralistic abstract patterns grew on dresses freely and shaped an interesting contrast with hand-loomed sweaters. Besides, cocoon coats were also eye-catching items. Especially the details of hoods and zippers let the special-round-shape outwear more modern and sporty rather than elegant.

Inspired by photos of 1880s, John Patrick would like to tell “a beautiful vision” in this collection. Comparatively, Organic by John Patrick was more feminine though the leather items broke the sweetness of small-floral-print dresses. Those leather trousers, coats, dresses and long gloves added some handsome elements that let models be a boy and girl at the same time.

 Assembly New York’s first collection for women was also a unisex version by designer Greg Armas. Extremely long coats and baggy pant-skirts in gray, black and beige constructed spacial shapes and black little hats reminded us an illusion to Amish. The designer seemed to create a religious solemnness to promote his ideal about unisex style.««

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