紐約2012秋冬女裝特別報導之七: Oscar de la Renta標榜Ladylike Rodarte詮釋澳洲浪漫行腳
New York FW2012 Women’s Collections: Printable Chicness


Rodarte的澳洲古大陸之旅,在鐵鏽紅岩與煙燻藍空中復古展開。

Rodarte的澳洲古大陸之旅,在鐵鏽紅岩與煙燻藍空中復古展開。

»»相較於昨天連番戲劇化的舞台展演,今日的紐約時裝周又回歸到正常務實路線。在基本實穿款主導的舞台上,各品牌卻不約而同地以印花圖騰,詮釋出可愛女孩、端莊淑女或帥氣女性的各種面貌。

離開上季梵谷的筆觸,這回Kate 與 Laura Mulleavy設計雙姝讓Rodarte秋冬系列告訴我們關於澳洲大陸古老的故事。澳洲地景的岩石紅鍺色搭配煙燻灰藍,貫穿這詩意懷舊的女性化系列,色彩轉化成斑駁抽象的岩石印花、原住民風味的圖騰、或者簡化成布料拼接,蔓延在翻領排釦大衣、粗針毛衣與層層雪紡堆疊的長洋裝上,纖長的線條與款式搭配有些30年代的復古風情。而飛行員夾克的應用也相當出色,黑色皮面與米色皮毛內裡(shearling)的黑白對比,讓及膝翻領夾克或背心洋裝,既溫暖實穿又時髦好看。皮料的應用也出現在腰帶與洋裝中,前者勒出大衣包裹的女性腰線,而後者則替這浪漫的澳洲之旅中,增添俐落帥氣。

昨日Marc Jacobs的正牌發表充滿著戲劇性的元素,而今日的副牌Marc by Marc Jacobs依舊保留古怪可愛的氛圍,但相形之下務實許多。設計師巧妙結合了軍裝與日耳曼鄉村元素,塑造出帶些任性叛逆卻又討人喜愛的青春少女。寬鬆及膝的鐘型裙在行走間搖曳,模特兒身上的毛茸茸大衣或羽絨外套雖以腰帶勒出了腰圍,但整體輪廓仍胖胖圓弧可愛;彩色幾何印花與條紋跳躍在單品上,讓頭戴軍帽腳穿軍靴的少女們在假嚴肅中,仍舊是甜美滿點。

Marc by Marc Jacobs的日耳曼軍帽少女有些叛逆,但仍可愛十足。

Marc by Marc Jacobs的日耳曼軍帽少女有些叛逆,但仍可愛十足。

Oscar de la Renta的作品依舊充滿ladylike風格,華麗而精緻的毛呢布料與立體珠飾和平面珠寶印花相互搭配的組合,挽著澎澎蓋耳髮髻又繫上緞面髮箍,讓身著套裝和洋裝的女模特兒宛如家教良好的女孩,既端莊又高貴。不過立體與平面的珠寶紋樣交互穿插下,減去一些貴氣的沉重,多分年輕的俏皮;即使在晚裝系列,蓬蓬紗裙裙襬下的短靴也是透露出淑女隱藏的小淘氣。

Oscar de la Renta真珠飾混假珠寶印花,讓淑女也有分淘氣。

Oscar de la Renta真珠飾混假珠寶印花,讓淑女也有分淘氣。

Tory Burch 的優雅秋冬系列有個有趣的主題「當好女孩愛上壞男孩」,而由花朵與格紋裝飾的女孩的確乖巧可人。及膝裙、套裝、九分褲等基本款輪番出現,紗質裝飾花飾、亮片格紋或大小花朵印花在不同單品間穿插,交織出多彩的搭配變化;而手繪的假毛呢格紋的套裝褶裙,在整系列中顯得有些個性,讓端莊的系列多些不一樣的選擇。

Tory Burch以格紋與花朵交織出端莊的淑女樣貌。

Tory Burch以格紋與花朵交織出端莊的淑女樣貌。

Vera Wang上一季對透明效果的狂熱似乎尚未熄滅,這季雪紡烏干紗等輕薄的素材仍佔領她的秋冬舞台,幸好還有皮草與毛料大衣,提醒著我們這是9月在北半球秋天上架的系列。纖細果決的剪裁線條串聯起毛料與薄紗的厚薄對比;oversize的外套綴上蓬鬆大面積的皮草,讓身著紗質洋裝的模特兒頓時率性又霸氣;與舞台背景呼應的建築線條,以印花或裝飾織紋的方式出現在薄紗與黑色面料上,再搭配極度寬大的領片,設計師以剛毅的輪廓線條,塑造女性亦柔亦剛的一面。««

Vera Wang的建築風格印花讓紗質裙裝頓時個性十足。

Vera Wang的建築風格印花讓紗質裙裝頓時個性十足。

»»Leaving the arty spring summer season behind, the Mulleavy sisters have turned their heads down south for inspiration at Rodarte. Their latest collection transformed the Australian landscape into impressionist prints, which was combined with an array of materials from sheer chiffon to chunky knits and shearling for a slick yet feminine silhouette.

Despite not being quite as awe inspiring as yesterdays mainline show, Marc by Marc Jacobs retained some of the quirky details while opting for wearability. Combining military elements and Bavarian tradition dressing, the slightly chubby silhouettes lent extra cuteness to the collection.

Oscar de la Renta’s latest collection seems to be somewhat of a homage to the late Coco Chanel, both real and printed jewelry were used among boucle tweed suits, which hinted towards Chanel’s famous stunt of mixing real and faux jewelry.

Tory Burch had a Valentine’s Day appropriate theme this season “As proper girls fall in love with bad guys”. The well cuts business suits, pencil skirts and sequin studded dresses indeed speak of a well raised girl with affluent background, whereas the playful “painted on” tartan presumably spoke of the naughtiness of her partner.

Vera Wang wasn’t done with sheer, light textiles, continuing to build her collection on chiffon and organza. The anachronistically light collection was paired up with cozy coats and fur to cope with the New York winter, then finished with a touch of architectural prints reminiscent of the design of the runway.««

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