紐約2012秋冬女裝特別報導之二: 混搭美式奇幻魔力
New York FW2012 Women’s Collections: Pot Melting in New York


Creatures of the Wind本季塑造童話世界。

Creatures of the Wind本季塑造童話世界。

»»紐約時裝周第二日大玩混搭,不論是真幻交織、穿越年代,或是融合極簡與繁複,各路設計師紛紛融合多樣元素,散發紐約時尚的青春活力。芝加哥新銳品牌Creatures of the Wind的兩位設計師Shane Gabier和Chris Peters像是永遠長不大的男孩,試圖重現Robert Kirk《不為人知的妖精之國》中的世界。以黃、綠與棕色等森林色系為底,搭上鮮豔橘紅條紋,整個系列猶如奇幻生物的棲身之所;粉彩格紋、針織毛衣、蕾絲與摺裙等英國鄉間元素,塑造出《納尼亞傳奇》(The Chronicles of Narnia)中人物的穿衣風格;而一襲紅黑相間的橫紋皮衣,更只差一對翅膀就能化身仙子翩然飛去;在印花中屢次出現的「What’s gone is gone」等字樣,則出自Peter S. Beagle的小說《最後的獨角獸》(The Last Unicorn)。雖然以童趣奇幻為主題,全系列仍保持了相當高的可穿性,其中蓬鬆的馬海毛衣條紋拼接西裝外套等,都可說是重新演繹經典的典範。

Nicolas K本季取材自美式文化,從30年代一路橫跨至現代,獨到的搭配與自然色系的運用,使多種元素完美融合。甫開場的翹沿牛仔帽與大量流蘇搭配,就令人想起西部牧馬的拓荒女孩,然而加入亮片材質後,則又散發30年代Art Deco的浮華氣息;品牌擅長的混搭軍裝元素也沒有缺席,幾款毛皮內裡的韓戰款式軍大衣與機車皮衣,集硬派與奢華於一身,可謂全系列的亮點;而小腿部分抓縐的低襠褲與七分裙,搭配運動風味的短靴,則帶來紐約不可或缺的街頭風情。

Nicolas K混合不同年代的經典美式元素。

Nicolas K混合不同年代的經典美式元素。

BCBG Max Azria宣稱以包浩斯(Bauhaus)為靈感,本以為會見到如90年代Jil Sander般的極簡線條,但Azria夫婦卻在幾何線條的基底上加入了多層次拼搭與運動元素,展現了紐約特有的活力。全系列以長袖絲質裙裝與長大衣的高窕線條為主,螢光橘、蘋果綠與土耳其藍等色塊則跳躍於灰階之間;頻繁穿插的細滑絲質、雪紡紗,乃至皮革與雜色皮草,則為系列帶來Greenwich Village式的波西米亞風情。 

BCBG Max Azria將極簡色塊融合波西米亞風。

BCBG Max Azria將極簡色塊融合波西米亞風。

Chadwick Bell經常以美國文化中的Style Icon做為靈感,今年也不例外,以誇張的剪裁與材質,詮釋80年代的紙醉金迷。全場蜷曲蓬鬆的髮型,飽和色彩搭配天鵝絨,寬肩收腰的垂墜剪裁,再加上長手套與短裙襬的搭配,重現80年代電視名人的丰采。而全身皮草、鱷魚漆皮乃至一襲金黃色印花套裝,都以寬大墊肩展現張揚風格,在經濟蕭條的今日頗有苦中作樂的意味。««

Chadwick Bell回歸浮誇的80年代。

Chadwick Bell回歸浮誇的80年代。

»»It is said that men never grow up. This is very true on Shane Gabier and Chris Peters, designers of Chicago based label Creatures of the Wind. Based on the whimsical world of fairytales, the collection was made up of a forest palette topped up with stripes of neon, making the perfect residence for fairies, fawns and elves. While being filled with fantasy, the collection maintained high wearability by reinterpreting British classics such as chunky mohair knits and paneled blazers.

Nicolas K blended an array of American classics from the 30s to present. The cowboy hats and fringes were clearly reminiscent of Arizona cowgirls, but also speaks of the flapper style of the 30s when paired up with sequin. The brand’s staple military inspirations remained a strong presence, long army parkas and biker jackets were trimmed with shearling and fur for a “rugged meets lux” style, whereas the bunched drop crouch sweatpants paired up with sneaker inspired boots reminded of the New York streetstyle.

While claiming to take inspiration from Bauhaus, BCBG Max Azria’s collection was anything but cold functionalism. The geometric grayscale was enriched by bouncing patches of neon, lime and turquoise, while the abundance of materials, which included smooth silk, chiffon, leather and fur, added to the intended bohemian vibe.

Chadwick Bell as usual, took his inspiration from American style icons. This time he had the flamboyant TV personalities of the 80s in mind, sending some strong shouldered dresses with nipped waists onto the runway and accessorizing them with elbow-length gloves and big hair. On top of that, the extensive use of fur, alligator and gold pleating added to the romantic anachronism of the collection.««

推到Facebook臉書!把這篇文章貼到twitter分享到微博!手機版網站