紐約2012秋冬女裝特別報導之五: 大唱極簡風進行曲 印花色塊同伴奏
New York FW2012 Women’s Collections: Minimalism Came Back.


Derek Lam的極簡單品在色彩與運動細節裝飾下,既實穿又時尚。

Derek Lam的極簡單品在色彩與運動細節裝飾下,既實穿又時尚。

»»90年代的極簡實穿風格在Derek Lam領軍下似乎又回歸伸展台,Jeremy Laing以男性陽剛的線條、DKNY以黑色都會女性、和Edun以深色野性風格呼應趨勢,但Thakoon與Zac Posen卻提出華麗鮮艷的異議聲音。告別上季的南加州熱情與印花,Derek Lam這回秋冬以黑白黃為主調的極簡進行曲,奏出都會女人既優雅又運動休閒的一面。帶點90年代Prada的極簡氛圍,以材質變化和精細的剪裁細節,替這全系列的實穿單品增添引人入勝之處。羅紋裝飾在印花夾克下襬與領口,或是皮革上衣或外套上,將運動元素以不張揚的比例巧妙安插;有變形蟲暱稱的paisley印花跳躍在緹花布上,看似蕾絲卻另外帶有些厚度分量,在大面積的黃黑或白黑對比下,讓及膝裙、九分褲、洋裝等單品雖無誇張剪裁,但仍精緻摩登;而總帶點古老意象的麻花編織,Derek Lam則巧妙變形織在毛衣背心上,並搭配飄逸的及地長裙或褲裙,視覺後薄差異帶出毛衣單品的都會感。

Jeremy Laing設計裡,簡約男裝線條混搭出後歌德的氣氛。

Jeremy Laing設計裡,簡約男裝線條混搭出後歌德的氣氛。

來自加拿大多倫多的Jeremy Laing的系列雖也是極簡風格,但在筆挺的男裝線條與oversize的寬尺寸的雙重衝擊下,譜出濃黑色調的後歌德曲風。超寬肩的外裝設計讓女模特兒個個宛如都市戰士,英挺中又富有攻擊性;長短參差的多層次單品上,設計師開了許多長而深的岔在大外套與長裙上,讓厚重的毛料大衣與外套在行進間透露出內搭裙襬的飄逸感,或者是女性修長四肢的纖細線條,以剛強與纖柔創造對比與視覺衝突。點綴的抽象動物紋路或低調的黑色印花,也替整系列增添華麗的裝飾音效。

DKNY以品牌擅長的都會風格,塑造女性強勢的一面。

DKNY以品牌擅長的都會風格,塑造女性強勢的一面。

這季秋冬的DKNY,Donna Karan讓她最愛的黑色大軍壓境伸展台。甫開場即以黑色皮革箱型外套宣示這主權,羊皮、鱷魚皮、毛海、皮草、毛呢、羽絨等各種材質的黑色蔓延;超高領毛海讓模特兒氣勢高不可攀,黑白豹紋也強化女性性感危險的一面,皮革寬腰封不僅勒出了裙裝的帥勁,也勒出皮草或羽絨外套的妖嬈性感,讓女性纖柔特質在這粗獷剛硬的線條中,衝撞出既奢華又都會的時尚大戰。

Edun深色異材質拼貼中,動物印花表現突出。

Edun深色異材質拼貼中,動物印花表現突出。

近年來以關心非洲議題而出名的品牌Edun,這季由愛爾蘭設計師Sharon Wauchob操刀,以自由的材質拼接與動物印花替秋冬帥氣女孩打造低調野性路線。整系列雖是深色主調,但是皮革的光澤、毛衣局部上光、類金屬布料表面處理,讓單品在低調深色系中也有豐富的視覺變化。斑馬、豹紋與風景混雜而成的印花圖樣,不對稱地散落在垂墜的輕薄布料上,以帶些螢光暈染的色調,穿插在厚實的秋冬單品中,讓整系列增添年輕街頭的野性。

Thakoon的紐約淑女並非前後如一,背面暗藏有趣設計。

Thakoon的紐約淑女並非前後如一,背面暗藏有趣設計。

要在百花爭鳴的紐約伸展台取得風格共識,可能是天方夜譚,一片極簡肅穆氛圍中,Thakoon與Zac Posen則以鮮豔的筆觸,企圖打破秋冬伸展台的低彩調色盤。泰裔設計師Thakoon Panichgul雖已收起上季春夏斑斕的民俗印花,以優雅的套裝與洋裝妝點紐約淑女,但在各種紅色材質拼接與孔雀羽毛印花下,這「優雅」反而像是種設計師頑皮的挑眉質疑,更別提某些女模轉身後的背面驚喜了──是要俏皮的大蝴蝶結尾巴或是全背鏤空編織?

Zac Posen的東方風晚宴服似乎不如前輩表現道地。

Zac Posen的東方風晚宴服似乎不如前輩表現道地。

Zac Posen則是維持其華麗的本性,只是這回的晚宴系列增添了些日本與中國風情。日式圖騰、和服腰帶、織錦緞與摺紙般的剪裁線條,令人聯想起Armarni Privé的2011秋冬高級訂製服,或是John Galliano掌舵2007年春夏Dior高訂時期的日式狂想,但是Zac Posen也許礙於成衣規模或販售考量,整系列徒具東方表象隔靴搔癢,無法和設計師慣常的西式禮服剪裁巧妙融合。««

»»Minimalism seemed to hit the runway today, though some designers may protest against this trend with colorful and luxurious approaches. Derek Lam’s new collection consisted of very wearable items which were not humdrum at all. Rib decorated floral-print suits, black leather jackets and tops, adding sporty and leisure touch to the lineups. White-black or yellow-black paisley jacquard served like laces but created a tough and chic touch to skirts and dresses. By cleverly interweaving leathers, embroidery and other details, Lam did revive minimalism with his own vocabulary.

Jeremy Laing played this minimal tune with toughness of menswear and post-goth look. Layering and oversize appeared again and again with the super-broad shoulder coats and jackets. To lighten this collection up, Laing inserted long slits on coats and skirts, letting other layers or models’ bodies to expose.

DKNY also played a black minimal look by manipulating with lots of leathers of crocodile, buff and lamb, furs and woolen fabric. With broad leather belts, even parka down jackets and leopard print skirts looked sexy and strong in some ways. Edun used black and animal prints a lot as well, but Sharon Wauchob made them much younger by adding metallic covers on sweaters and skirts. Her mixture of black fabrics and prints created a low-key wild atmosphere to this show.

Thakoon and Zac Posen disagreed with this minimal trend and unsaturated hue. Thakoon shaped a New York lady with red, black, hot-pink and other colors and hid many interesting details on the back of some dresses. Gorgeous and splendid are Zac Posen’s synonyms and this time he would like to make it in eastern way. However, Chinese embroidery, Japanese prints, obis and origami did appeared in this collection, but his garments didn’t look sophisticated enough comparing with John Galliano’s or Armani’s previous works.««

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