薩維爾街訂製西裝打造巨星丰采
When the Stars Wore Bespoke


披頭四全員的西裝都出自Tommy Nutters之手。

披頭四全員的西裝都出自Tommy Nutters之手。

»»巨星的堅持是甚麼?為了在台上台下表裡如一,穿著無時無刻都必須保持得體。近來好萊塢的許多作品,「海濱帝國」(Broadwalk Empire)、「王者之聲」(The King’s Speech)、「午夜巴黎」(Midnight in Paris),以及即將上映的新版「大亨小傳」(The Great Gatsby)都企圖重現當年的丰采,但任Colin Firth、Owen Wilson和Leonardo DeCaprio的演技如何精湛,還是難以青出於藍。追根究底,終究是因為他們平時穿著實在太不得體,在戲裡穿上一身行頭後便難掩不自然。

放眼當年Cary Grant、Fred Astaire等主宰黑白電影時,向來是戲裡戲外一樣有型,絕不會出現如今戲外與T-shirt夾拖為伍的畫面。而為求完美剪裁和個人風格,他們也堅持絕不買成衣,全身上下都由量身打造,從布料到縫製的每一個細節,都親自和裁縫溝通,也因此 “Bespoke”(原意是預定、親洽)一詞就成為英文中高級訂製男裝的象徵。

對於最懂穿衣藝術的巨星,大家第一個想到的應該非007莫屬,而第一代龐德Sean Connery,正是倫敦著名裁縫街薩維爾街(Savile Row)的忠實顧客。1962年薩維爾街裁縫Anthony Sinclair替Sean Connery打造了一套有著飽滿的胸膛,寬厚肩膀和鮮明腰線的剪裁,為龐德奠定了剛強中帶有優雅的形象,這種被稱為Conduit Cut的剪裁,日後也成為英式西裝的招牌之一。

世代輪替後,第二代龐德Roger Moore則和另一家薩維爾街裁縫Cyril Castle合作,創造了風格較為溫和的剪裁。可惜再來繼任的Timothy Dalton並沒有延續這個優良傳統,使得龐德風流倜儻的形象,直到Pierce Brosnan接手才重新樹立。但自此之後,龐德的官方西服就變成了義大利頂級西服Brioni,以龐德英國特務的身分,只能說實在太不給薩維爾街面子。

Tommy Nutter為披頭四鼓手Ringo Starr設計的三件式西裝。

Tommy Nutter為披頭四鼓手Ringo Starr設計的三件式西裝。

但若提到薩維爾街上名人最愛用的西裝,則非Tommy Nutter店裡的出品莫屬。在有名望的裁縫仍只接受私人預約的60年代,Nutter就開始用上大片的落地窗展示服裝以招徠顧客;聘請裁縫大師Edward Sexton,Tommy Nutter憑著對時尚敏銳的嗅覺,顛覆了薩維爾街傳統的印象,也為他贏來了「薩維爾街上的異類」的名號。Nutter和Sexton所推出的「搖滾西裝」有著寬大上揚的肩線、纖細腰身和誇張的領子,可說是引領了此後20年的流行。

這種前衛與完美剪裁的結合,使搖滾黃金時代的巨星趨之若鶩。披頭四在1969年的著名唱片《Abbey Road》封面上,其中三人的嬉皮式西裝就出自Tommy Nutter之手。而當時披頭四死對頭,滾石合唱團的主唱Mick Jagger在他的婚禮上也穿著一襲Tommy Nutter出品的白色禮服,他的超模老婆Bianca Jagger婚後也隨之跟進。此後從Elton John、Twiggy乃至Andrew Lloyd Webber都成為Tommy Nutter的愛用者。

Mick和Bianca Jagger都是Tommy Nutter的忠實簇擁。

Mick和Bianca Jagger都是Tommy Nutter的忠實簇擁。

時至今日,導演在要凸顯人物服裝品味的時候,Bespoke裁縫仍是不二之選。近水樓台的紐約裁縫Leonard Logsdail,便在「美國黑幫」(American Gangster)及「華爾街:金錢萬歲」(Wall Street: Money Never Sleeps)中為Denzel Washington飾演的毒梟和Michael Douglas飾演的金融巨鱷設計了服裝,他本人甚至還在「華爾街:金錢萬歲」中客串了裁縫一角。

設計了「華爾街」第一集服裝的男裝專家Alan Flusser在被問到,為何1930年代的男人那麼會穿衣服時說:「當時上流階級的穿著固然一流,但平常人也差不到哪去,這主要是因為明星們做了好榜樣的關係。」雖然如今名人行頭多由品牌贊助,訂製西服的一絲不苟還是不應被遺忘,乘著這波懷舊電影的浪潮,也希望現在的巨星們可以在向前輩揣摩演技的同時,也看看他們是如何穿衣服的。««

紐約裁縫Leonard Logsdail(右)在電影「華爾街-金錢萬歲」中也客串了一角。

紐約裁縫Leonard Logsdail(右)在電影「華爾街-金錢萬歲」中也客串了一角。

 


尋訪名人裁縫
Edward Sexton:
地址:26 Beauchamp Place, Knightsbridge, London, SW3 2JL
電話:+44 (0)20 7838 0007
網站:http://www.edwardsexton.co.uk/
雖然Tommy Nutter已經去世,他當年的首席裁縫Edward Sexton仍在離薩維爾街不遠的Beauchamp Place執業,繼續用他無可挑剔的技術提供離經叛道的剪裁。

Leonard Logsdail
地址:9 East 53d Street., New York, NY, 10022
電話:+1 212-752-50309
學徒生涯在薩維爾街上度過的Leonard Logsdail,最擅長的還是寬肩細腰,下襬微張的英式剪裁,但就像紐約這個大熔爐,Logsdail也有多種擅長的剪裁,在電影中,他展現了他對50年代到80年代剪裁的掌握。


»»A recent wave of Hollywood productions, the HBO series “Boardwalk Empire”, the reproduction of “The Great Gatsby”, “Midnight in Paris”, “The King’s Speech” and many more, all look to take the audience back to the golden times of the first half of 20th century, when Cary Grant, Fred Astaire and the like ruled the silver screen.

Despite the success of the productions above, one thing that stood out is that the leading actors always fall short of capturing their predecessors’ elegance. Especially in the way they wore their suit and their hat, it seems that the art of dressing is truly lost. This makes us all so nostalgic about the days when the stars always wore their own bespoke clothing, on and off set, and always looked confident and comfortable in them.

When talking about the epitome of men’s elegance, James Bond naturally comes to mind, while the current Bond Daniel Craig wears Brioni, the original Bond Sean Connery was an avid connoisseur of Savile Row bespoke, internationalizing the “Conduit Cut” by master cutter Anthony Sinclair and elevating it into one of the Row’s standarts. His successor Roger Moore carried on the bespoke tradition, but went to Cyril Castle instead for a more relaxed cut to fit his character. The linage was unfortunately broken when Timothy Dalton took over, only to be revived by Pierce Brosnan in the 90’s.

As opposed to movie stars, rock stars seemed to favor the flamboyant style of Tommy Nutter, who in the 60s, created the look with extra-wide shoulders and lapels, paired up with a pinched waist and flair pants, in collaboration with master cutter Edward Sexton. Following the Beatles’ endorsement on the iconic cover of “Abbey Road”, and Mick Jagger sporting a white tux on his wedding day, an endless list of celebrities including Bianca Jagger, Elton John, Twiggy and Andrew Lloyd Webber have all sworn by the house of Nutter.

As of today, bespoke tailoring is still the choice of movie costumes when it comes to emphasizing a character’s taste. For Denzel Washington in “Gangs of New York” and Michael Douglas in “Wall Street: Money Never Sleeps, New York tailor Leonard Logsdail, also former apprentice on the row, created highly accurate reflections of the 70s and the 80s, which really helped to build the characters.

Alan Flusser, men’s attire specialist, who dressed Gordon Gekko and Bud Fox in the first “wall Street” movie, said when asked about the style of the 30’s “the lesson of this eralies not in how extraordinarily well turned-out the privileged few were, but that the average man’s level of dressing sophistication was not far behind. This clearly reflected his access the sound fashion advice and exposure to stylish role models.” Well, let’s hope that the stars of today can pick up a few notes from their costumes and reestablish themselves as role models, too.««

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