超奢華布料 導入鑽石玉片做SPA
Uber Luxury Fabrics


南美駱馬與駱馬毛布料。

南美駱馬與駱馬毛布料。

»»自從「世界最貴西裝」在2009年在倫敦以7萬英鎊(約台幣330萬)的天價售出後,不少高級布料廠商都吹起了研發超奢華布料的風潮。何謂超奢華布料?以往外套類的高級布料主要以羊毛、馬海(Mohair,澳洲羊毛的一種,質地較有光澤)與羊絨等傳統天然纖維與各種混紡為主,但如今為了抓住顧客的心,各大高級布料商不惜上山下海,不找到珍禽異獸不善罷干休;甚至還有廠家把金絲銀線、翡翠瑪瑙都混進布料中,直要向當年皇帝的「金縷衣」看齊。

連「龍貓」都難逃被剪毛的命運。

連「龍貓」都難逃被剪毛的命運。

當時由Alexander Amosu推出的「世界最貴西裝」,賣點除了精細的做工與金質鑲鑽的鈕扣之外,不外乎是它由法國廠商Dormeuil在英國生產的「Vanquish II」布料。這款結合安地斯山脈的駱馬(Vicuna)、北極麝牛(Musk Ox)與羊絨(Cashmere)混紡製成的布料,每公尺的價格可達3000英鎊(約台幣14萬)。其中南美駱馬毛據傳在古印加帝國,只有皇族可以穿著,在上世紀還曾經一度因為珍稀的皮毛與暴躁的性情,遭到不少獵人濫殺以求取暴利,一度成為保育類動物,直到1990年才重新開放養殖。如今包括英國廠牌Holland& Sherry和荷蘭廠牌Scabal(設廠在英國)等都推出了100%駱馬毛的精梳布料,平均做一套西裝要價3萬英鎊(約台幣141萬)。而Scabal更挖空腦筋,在「Expression」系列中,連外型蓬鬆可愛的龍貓(Chinchilla)毛髮都拿來與駱馬毛混紡。

Dormeuil使用玉片的「Jade」系列。

Dormeuil使用玉片的「Jade」系列。

除了稀有毛料之外,Dormeuil更開發用水流細小的玉片導入布料的技術,聲稱可以增添「改善氣場、活絡經脈」的功能;Scabal更早在2001年就研發出在紗線中鑲嵌細小鑽石碎片的手法,與150支羊毛和蠶絲混紡,推出名為「Diamond Chip」的系列。雖然成品中的鑽石幾乎很難用肉眼辨識,且一套服裝要價7000英鎊(33萬台幣)但此款布料卻大受好評,迄今已推出16種不同的花色。

Luciano Barbera的父親,現年99歲的Carlo Barbera。

Luciano Barbera的父親,現年99歲的Carlo Barbera。

對於布料,義大利廠牌則自有一套見解。不同於義大利時尚的鋪張華麗,傳統的布料廠牌只相信代代相傳的傳統,並不以珍稀原料做為賣點。如位在米蘭附近的Carlo Barbera布廠,就堅持讓紗線在過染之後,儲藏在稱為「spa」的房間中長達六個月,在恆定的溫度與濕度下讓纖維舒展。目前已72歲高齡的繼承人Luciano Barbera表示,這樣的處理雖然費時,卻能確保成品的透氣性與柔軟度,使他們的布料受到Zegna訂製和Ralph Lauren Purple Label等頂級系列的青睞。又如從1733年就生產羊絨布料的廠商Fratelli Piacenza,至今仍持續提供最高品質的純羊絨,雖然沒有金銀財寶加持,300年的經驗加上對原質料的堅持,使他們的布料一樣可以賣出高價,並與Geoffrey B Small等小眾設計師發展了長期的合作關係。««

»»Ever since the world’s most expensive suit was sold for ₤70,000 in 2009, a race towards the most expensive fabric ever has started among British fabric mills. Deviating from the traditional offerings of wool, mohair and cashmere, the rarest creature from the seven seas are now being sheared to give fabrics an exclusive edge.

British based French maker Dormeuil’s “Vanquish II”, “Guanashina” and “Royal Qiviuk” fabrics included the fibers of Vicuna and Guanaco from the Andes, Musk Ox from Antarctica as well as kid Pashmina from Mongolia. Also British based Dutch mill Scabal has similar offerings that blend Vicuna with the endangered Chinchilla, while Holland& Sherry also offers a 100% worsted Vicuna that comes at the price of $4000 per meter.

Other than precious fiber, British mills also developed the technology to blend precious stones. Dormeuil’s “Jade” range goes through a “jade bath treatment”, where micro-fragments of the stone is mixed with water then sprayed into the fabric, while Scabal came up with the method to attach pieces of diamond onto super 160’s wool fiber as early in 2001. The Scabal “Diamond Chip” range now comes in 16 different weaves.

Despite the swashbuckling nature of their fashion, Italian mills seem less keen about the current luxury race, focusing more on their heritage instead. At Carlo Barbera, a family run mill near Milan that supplies Zegna MTM, Ralph Lauren Purple Label and other top-tier makers, spun yarns undergo a “spa” treatment of 6 month after dyeing, which according to the 72-year-old owner Luciano Barbera, contributes to the performance of the fabric. Similarly, Fratelli Piacenza, one of the world’s oldest existing mills, still offers pure Cashmere the same way it did nearly 300 years ago, making it one of the most desired fabrics and favored by exclusive designers such as Geoffrey B. Small.««

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