遠程訂製 自己設計自己穿
Techno-Bespoke


Burberry代言人Emma Watson搶先穿上Burberry Bespoke。

Burberry代言人Emma Watson搶先穿上Burberry Bespoke。

»»根據你的身型量身打版,上自挑選布料,下至鈕扣到針法,每一個細節都由你決定,訂製的藝術在今天聽起來或許很像天方夜譚。自60年代,YSL推行第一個設計師成衣系列(Ready to Wear)以來,關於服裝的決定權就從我們手中被奪走,而在眾多設計師的宰制之下,問一般人想要穿什麼,恐怕他自己也答不出來。

但這樣的時代很快就要畫上句點,隨著資訊科技的發達,各大品牌都多少提供了將商品個人化的空間,如Louis Vuitton就可以讓顧客自選顏色在皮包或皮箱上繪上自己的名字縮寫,而Gucci和Goyard也提供類似的服務。但Burberry推出的Bespoke網上服務,則為客製化潮流帶來了全新的可能性。原是Burberry經典款的Trench Coat,竟然可有多達1200萬種變化,從顏色、材質乃至鉚釘等叛逆細節,保證讓你搭配出獨一無二的風衣,絕不和人撞衫。而訂製服務也讓風衣正式躋身奢華商品之林,有著升級的手工與Cashmere和水貂內裡等材質,Burberry Bespoke從8萬台幣起跳,頂級配置可達40萬台幣之譜。

使用Burberry Bespoke,幾分鐘內就可以訂製出屬於你的Emma Watson愛用鉚釘款。

使用Burberry Bespoke,幾分鐘內就可以訂製出屬於你的Emma Watson愛用鉚釘款。

另外,網上平民訂製的革命也正暗潮洶湧。United Styles,一家荷資上海公司即將推出的網站,讓一般人也可一圓設計師夢。藉由數位印刷技術的發展,United Styles可以在顧客下單後再開始印製布料,甚至決定剪裁,目前網站提供11款基本剪裁、100種顏色和50種印花,也有多種袖子、領口與滾邊可供選擇。而其中的 “Print Scaling”功能更是令人驚嘆,可將同樣的一個印花的比例放大或縮小,呈現完全不同的風貌。網站創辦人Xander Slager在接受採訪時表示:「在網上人們總是可以激發各式各樣的創意,不論是在部落格或是音樂網站上,我們都可以看到旺盛的創作欲望,我認為服裝設計也應該提供同樣的可能性。」

在United Styles上,可用3D preview功能預覽自己的設計。

在United Styles上,可用3D preview功能預覽自己的設計。

在2011年夏季以3D影印的N12泳裝引起話題的Continuum Fashion,除了將一體成型的技術引入時尚界外,更在自己的官網上推出D.dress App,讓人可以輕鬆畫出神似Gareth Pugh的三角拼貼設計,並可以透過社群網站秀給親朋好友看。而品牌創辦人之一Mary Huang更表示在近期內將開放限量的訂做服務,把網友們的得意之作付諸實現。

N12泳裝以3D影印技術呈現的奇幻材質感。

N12泳裝以3D影印技術呈現的奇幻材質感。

而在紐約創立的Fitted Fashion則從剪裁下手,使用醫療科技等級的3D掃描儀,Fitted Fashion在開幕後,將可以在短短半分鐘內就採集超過200組身材數據,並以此打造出完全合身的服裝。目前以牛仔褲為主的服務,未來也將跨足至襯衫與西裝等更複雜的產品。而United Styles創辦人Xander Slager也表示,目前有許多廠商正在開發量身App,未來不用笨重的3D掃描儀,只消在智慧手機上動動手指,就可以完成複雜的量身動作。靠全新科技的發展,每個人都可以當自己的設計師和打版師,創造出獨一無二的服裝。««

在D.dress App上隨意畫出的圖樣,在近期即可投入生產。

在D.dress App上隨意畫出的圖樣,在近期即可投入生產。

 


現在就來玩設計:
Burberry Bespoke:http://0rz.tw/HMVEi
United Styles:http://0rz.tw/NFBit
D.dress:http://www.continuumfashion.com/Ddress/


»»The days of bespoke, when the customers were the designers, from fabric to finishing, seem to be long gone. Ever since Yves Saint Laurent lunched his Rive Gauche collection (the first RTW line ever), designers have taken charge of our wardrobes instead, leaving us consumers completely clueless about the making of the garment.

Recently customized garments have made a comeback trough information technology, custom options by Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Goyard have given their products more or less a personal touch. However, the real effort came from Burberry’s “Bespoke” service, which, though not cutting individual patterns as the name suggests, does give a wide range of fabric and material to choose from. Prices start from NT$80,000 up to NT$400,000 for a brass studded trench lined with sable fur.

For those without big bucks to drop, Dutch-Shanghainese label United Styles offers Design-It-Yourself options at a budget. Currently the site offers 5 basic styles, 100 choices of colors and 50 prints, which will expand rapidly after the beta stage. The digital printing, the user is allowed to “scale” the prints, opening an infinite range of possibility. In an interview with Evoke, co-founder Xander Slager said that “The web is a place where we’ve seen an explosion in creativity, we can see that in blogs and music websites and I’d like to see the same in fashion.”

Continuum Fashion, the fashion label and design lab which caused quite of stir this summer with its 3D printed swimsuits, has also entered the custom design market with its D.dress app, which allows the customers to simply sketch up a design, which will be transformed into a group of triangles a la Gareth Pugh. Limited spots for production will be opened soon, according to co-founder Mary Huang.

While most focus on the design aspect of customization, Ney York label Fitted Fashion is looking to tackle the difficult part of bespoke-fit. Using 3D scanners, over 200 measurements can be taken within seconds, which will be fed into a computer for a fully customized pattern. The label is to open its studio in SOHO, which would offer custom-cut jeans and will soon range into more complex garments in collaboration. More compact measuring devices is also on the way, as United Styles co-founder Xander Slager spoke of iPhone apps in development, which can measure people up through just a few photos.««

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