鞋履熱潮 引發百貨旗艦大戰
It Shoe Battle Heating Up


新秀品牌重要性日益增加。(左上起順時針:Nicholas Kirkwood、Tabitha Simmons、Aquazurra、Alejandro Ingelmo)

新秀品牌重要性日益增加。(左上起順時針:Nicholas Kirkwood、Tabitha Simmons、Aquazurra、Alejandro Ingelmo)

»»It Bag熱潮消褪,It Shoe正在崛起,在景氣持續低迷之際,亮眼包款確實不如一雙好走的鞋來得實際,鞋履也順理成章成為除香水外,成長得最快的時尚單品。除了Christian Louboutin、Jimmy Choo、Roger Vivier乃至Nicolas Kirkwood等品牌,紛紛在過去一年開疆闢土之外,在精品銷售的兵家必爭之地曼哈頓,鞋履銷售大戰正如火如荼地進行,而包羅萬象的鞋履樓層正是最前線。

精品百貨Barney’s於日前揭幕的新鞋履銷售區,引來媒體與顧客的一致讚嘆。22,000平方呎(約666坪)的銷售空間橫跨整個60至61街街區,以玻璃為主的裝潢搭配天鵝絨地毯與沙發,流瀉而入的自然光使空間舒適而充滿現代感,「客戶在這裡可以坐下來試穿好幾個小時」Barney’s副總裁Daniella Vitale表示。除了兩大台柱Christian Louboutin和Manolo Blahnik各據一方之外,Barney’s也獨家引進Alexa Wagner、Narciso Rodriguez和去年重開的巴黎老牌Maiyet等新系列;因應迅速成長的男鞋市場,Barney’s鞋履樓層也首度加入男鞋,包括英國手工鞋品牌John Lobb、Church’s,及義大利頂級品牌Bettanin & Venturi等。

Barney’s新鞋履樓層,打造明亮舒適的空間。

Barney’s新鞋履樓層,打造明亮舒適的空間。

面對挑戰,Saks Fifth Avenue也於上月宣布擴張鞋履部門。此前以21,000平方呎(約636坪),獲得獨立郵遞區號10022的鞋履旗艦,將擴張至 令人咋舌的32,150平方呎(約970坪)。相對於Barney’s,Saks Fifth Avenue將重心擺在了Nicholas Kirkwood、Tabitha Simmons、Alejandro Ingelmo及Aquazzura等新銳設計師品牌,「大牌只能成長到一定程度,因此我們必須培育新血,目前他們已經佔了相當大的銷售份額。」Saks時尚總監Elizabeth Kanfer表示。據業界推測,Saks去年鞋履銷售數字高達3至4億美元(約90至120億台幣)之譜,Saks總裁Rob Frasch也表示,鞋履熱超越潮流起伏,在過去六年都有穩定高成長,且毫無停歇之勢。

Saks Fifth Avenue鞋履部門擴張計劃示意圖。

Saks Fifth Avenue鞋履部門擴張計劃示意圖。

Bergdorf Goodman、Bloomingdales與Macy’s百貨同樣動作不斷,其中又以Macy’s 3月開始的4年整修計劃最為令人期待,預計在2012年冬季完工的鞋履樓層,將銷售超過30萬種鞋款,63,000平方呎的空間可裝下一個足球場還有餘,冠絕全球。

Bergdorf Goodman於去年9月推出全新鞋履樓層。

Bergdorf Goodman於去年9月推出全新鞋履樓層。

香港精品百貨Lane Crawford於去年10月在尖沙嘴開幕的Shoe Library,則將超級鞋履旗艦的風潮帶進亞洲市場。不同於一望無際的美式百貨,Lane Crawford將25,000平方呎的空間分為六大區塊,除了挑高5米,以黃銅裝飾的「圖書館」入口外,與Manolo Blahnik合作,極富科技感的「Blitz」區及Alexander Wang與3.1 Philip Lim等年輕設計師進駐的「Contemporary」區同樣引人入勝,店內甚至有與Lanvin及Comme des Garcons合作的獨立童鞋區塊。「我們不見得是最大的,但絕對要是最有深度與細節的。」母公司Pedder Group總裁Peter Harris表示。

Lane Crawford Shoe Library帶來多樣體驗。

Lane Crawford Shoe Library帶來多樣體驗。

當大牌與新秀爭相在全新鞋履樓層中爭取一席之地的同時,尚未推出鞋履系列的品牌也積極參戰。在2012秋冬,就有Rodarte、Roland Mouret、Hervé Léger、Alessandro Dell’Acqua及Rachel Roy等品牌加入鞋履產品線,闊別鞋履五年的Narciso Rodriguez也重回戰場,使競爭日趨激烈。Hervé Léger設計師Max Azria表示:「有知名品牌加持已不是成功的保證,唯有不斷努力,贏得顧客信任,才是生存之道。」««

不少設計師都重回鞋履懷抱。(由左至右:Roland Mouret、Rachel Roy、Rodarte)

不少設計師都重回鞋履懷抱。(由左至右:Roland Mouret、Rachel Roy、Rodarte)

»»Forget about it bags, it shoes are the next hot thing. Despite continuous economic turmoil, shoes continue to enjoy consistent high growth, most recent evidence being the continuous revamping moves of high end department stores.

Barney’s introduced its new shoe floor last week, which stunned customers and media alike. Occupying whole blocks, the new space revolutionarily combined men’s and women’s shoes, adding the likes of John Lobb and Church’s to the lineup of Christian Louboutin and Manolo Blahnik and another hundreds of labels.

Facing this challenge, Saks Fifth Avenue also revealed its new shoe floor expansion plan, which adds 15,000 square feet of floor space to its already gigantic, zip code granted venue. The expansion will put emphasis on young labels, including Nicholas Kirkwood, Tabitha Simmons, Alejandro Ingelmo and Aquazzura.

Bergdorf Goodman, Bloomingdales and Macy’s also each made refurbishment plans to their shoe retailing space, the most ambitious among them being Macy’s 4 year plan, which upon completion of the first stage this winter would yield a dazzling 63,000 square feet of floor space.

Lane Crawford of Hong Kong introduced a different experience last October with its shoe library, divided into 6 sections, the space is designed to evoke the sentiment of “a journey”.

While established labels are bidding for a place in the new shoe floors, those that do not yet have a shoe collection also look to join the battle. The upcoming season will see Rodarte, Roland Mouret, Hervé Léger, Alessandro Dell’Acqua and Rachel Roy adding shoes into their lineup, as well as the return of Narciso Rodriguez after a 5 year absence from the shoe arena.««

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