高訂輪廓注入運動魂 Serkan Sarier技高一籌
Designer of the Week: Serkan Sarier


Brood 2013春夏女裝於紐約時裝週最後一天壓軸登場。

Brood 2013春夏女裝於紐約時裝週最後一天壓軸登場。

»»甫結束的2013春夏紐約時裝週,品牌Brood以受矚新銳之姿壓軸登場,而品牌也不負眾望,以倫敦藝術家Antony Gormley的雕塑與玫瑰畫作作為靈感來源,大膽運用各式玫瑰印花與幾何色塊,給人倫敦時尚的前衛感受。服裝輪廓部分,設計師將多功能口袋、拉鍊等運動元素,融入宮廷華服般的設計,展現出新穎卻貼合日常穿著的樣貌,征服多數時尚媒體目光。不過是第5季的服裝發表,卻已展現老牌的成熟,而這都要歸功品牌設計師Serkan Sarier。

Brood設計師Serkan Sarier。

Brood設計師Serkan Sarier。

Serkan Sarier是個出生於德國的土耳其裔設計師,媲美模特兒的帥氣長相,使得投注在他身上的目光不亞於他的服裝作品。Serkan Sarier從小對服裝能夠凸顯人們個性與身分的能力感到著迷,因此立定志向,朝時尚的道路邁進。安特衛普皇家藝術學院(Royal Academy of Fine Arts)畢業後,曾在2002年於設計師Emanuel Ungaro手下從事高級訂製服的設計,對Ungaro隨意抓褶布料即能成就有型有款的服裝輪廓印象深刻。之後還與Giambattista Valli、Haider Ackermann、Olivier Theyskens等設計師共事,成為影響他時尚服裝創作極深的經驗。

Brood首場時裝秀便受 Vera Wang、Zac Posen等設計師注意。

Brood首場時裝秀便受 Vera Wang、Zac Posen等設計師注意。

透過豐富閱歷所累積的實力,讓品牌Brood在西雀兒喜藝廊(West Chelsea Art Gallery)舉辦的2011春夏女裝首次發表大受時尚圈注意,設計師Sally Singer、 Vera Wang、Zac Posen與Mario Grauso皆現身秀場。Serkan Sarier說:「我嘗試在服裝中注入高級訂製服的要素,但服裝結構上卻力求摩登。」是故充滿繁複抓皺、打褶的優雅女裝,卻穿插以拉鍊、抽繩元素,讓服裝運動味十足。加上設計師思考陽光對顏色的影響,讓系列塔夫綢洋裝呈現大理石質感,展現新穎樣貌。而系列服裝大獲好評之餘,Barneys New York還在秀後下訂單,讓首場服裝秀有了完美落幕。

抽繩、拉鍊成Brood常見元素。(左、中:2011秋冬;右:2012春夏)

抽繩、拉鍊成Brood常見元素。(左、中:2011秋冬;右:2012春夏)

接續的女裝系列,抽繩、拉鍊成了Brood不可或缺的元素。2012春夏女裝,系列雪紡長裙在局部運用抽繩設計,營造不規則皺褶效果,打破了服裝的優雅輪廓,同時注入運動因子。2012秋冬轉而把玩印花,以英國藝術家Lynn Chadwick的金屬雕塑與Glenn Brown流動的繪畫筆觸為靈感,設計出近似岩石剖面紋路的印花圖樣。同時,Serkan Sarier運用拉鍊裝飾,增加了服裝的前衛感。以抽繩元素,在腰際營造出立體的荷葉邊輪廓。令人玩味再三的細節設計,不僅讓時尚媒體耳目一新,新生代女星Emma Watson、美國女歌手Fergie也身穿其設計出席公開活動,表示對服裝的熱愛。

Brood 2012秋冬女裝受西方女星愛戴。(左、中:Emma Watson;右:Fergie)

Brood 2012秋冬女裝受西方女星愛戴。(左、中:Emma Watson;右:Fergie)

而事業得意之餘,Serkan Sarier的感情生活也非常甜蜜,與Vera Wang品牌總裁Mario Grauso共組愛的小窩。從他們位於曼哈頓下城的家中擺設,就可以看出兩人對時尚與品味的堅持。「他喜歡極端、誇張的事物,而我則偏愛利於使用的物件。」Mario Grauso表示:「因為我才能有坐的地方,不然你可能必須坐在奇怪的岩石上。」是故Serkan Sarier各式天馬行空的蒐藏,在紐約客Mario Grauso拘謹的籌畫下,讓整體空間呈現出富含異國元素的摩登樣貌。而兩人的互補不僅體現在居家裝潢,Mario Grauso對時尚的影響力,加上Serkan Sarier無窮的設計潛力,絕對能幫助品牌Brood更上層樓,有朝一日成為國際品牌。««

Serkan Sarier(左圖右)與Mario Grauso(左圖左)共築愛的小窩。

Serkan Sarier(左圖右)與Mario Grauso(左圖左)共築愛的小窩。

 


Serkan Sarier小檔案
出生於德國,2001年畢業於安特衛普皇家藝術學院。
2002
年於於設計師Emanuel Ungaro手下從事高級訂製服的設計。
2010
年成立Brood女裝品牌。
官網:http://broodbyserkansarier.com/home.html


»»New York Fashion Week has only ended earlier this month, many newcomer designers has left an impressive impression that stunned the audiences. One that absolutely needs to mention is the last brand on the runway, BROOD. With their delicacy and courage on designs, they gave us a shock of London style producing by their master creative mind behind the brand, Serkan Sarier.

Serkan Sarier is a Turkish designer who born in Germany. Having the look of models, critics love to compare him as Tom Ford. When Serkan Sarier was a child, he has always been fascinated by how the choice of outfit defined a person’s inner mind. After graduating from Royal Academy of Fine Arts, he entered Emanuel Ungaro as a designer in 2002, where he learned the delicate curvature of female bodies by using cloths.

After years of experiences, he started his brand, BROOD, and debut his 2011 SS Women Collection in West Chelsea Art Gallery has made a strong impression of him to the public. With his creativity of knots, lining, zippers combined with sporty sense, his first show has brought him a huge paycheck from Barney’s New York to import a large load of his collection.

As advent-garde is always his spirit of inspiration, his later work are showing a hint of London fashion by massively using decorations as patterns, metals, and 3D embroideries. These elements has especially favored by many celebrities such as Emma Watson and Fergie. In addition of his success in career, he also enjoyed his wonderful private life. Moving into a warm little house with Vera Wang’s director Mario Grauso, they helped each other to level their fashion sense in their everyday life. In this paste, turning BROOD to an international brand will not be far away. ««

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