2012秋冬女裝趨勢現象之驚世秀場 芽孢菌強壓陰屍路
2012 Fall Winter Fashion Week Roundup 1: Crazy Runway Moments


Alexander McQueen 地衣附身
Alexander McQueen設計師Sarah Burton在秀後表示她本季的設計理念是「充滿希望的未來」,但隨後就說溜嘴講出她真正的靈感-蘑菇。從菌傘到下襬褶皺、再到竹笙的網狀組織,服裝上的點狀裝飾也像極了孢子,Sarah Burton本季對真菌類生物的觀察無微不至。而搶眼的大皮帶扣則形似蚌殼,不知道Sarah Burton是否也參考了海洋生物,只是沒有透露?

Alexander McQueen本季以蘑菇做為靈感。

Alexander McQueen本季以蘑菇做為靈感。

While Sarah Burton spoke of light and dark and an optimistic future, it is clear that her true inspiration was none other than mushrooms and fungi. Not only did the overall silhouette strike a resemblance, the delicate jacquard pattern were clearly on the same page as well.

Gareth Pugh拖把公雞
本季還把Gareth Pugh放進這份名單其實有失公允,其實他已相當努力地把系列做得更實穿,如鎧甲牢籠的硬挺線條或是頭套本季已不復見,也沒有再請Ruth Hogben拍攝嚇人的影片。但開場一套黑色長毛裝加上頭飾,實在很難讓人不聯想到家禽;秀中的幾套毛衣更像國中校園水槽裡的髒拖把,若是秀後用來清理滿地的黑色花瓣倒是相當方便。

Gareth Pugh每季都不免有些驚人之舉。

Gareth Pugh每季都不免有些驚人之舉。

Minus Ruth Hogben and razor sharp material, Gareth Pugh has actually presented a quite wearable collection this time. The styling however was still pushing it from time to time, the show opening headpiece made a strong impression of a rooster, whereas some of the coats were reminiscent of dirty mops.

John Galliano 小紅帽長大學壞
Bill Gaytten在接手Dior和John Galliano以後就一直因為設計太過於「安全」而飽受撻伐,本季在John Galliano,他顯然想帶來多一點刺激為自己正名,其中用上挑逗感官的綢緞是個不錯的主意,但有些look則就誤入歧途。一件「小紅帽」斗篷加上長至大腿根的性感絲襪,外婆看了大概會心臟病發,大野狼則想必相當中意。而雪紡紗禮服上不透光的荷葉邊,一路躲著重點部位跑,也讓人煞費思量。

John Galliano本季裸露的手法讓人相當費解。

John Galliano本季裸露的手法讓人相當費解。

Bill Gaytten at John Galliano presented perhaps the most flamboyant collection since he took over, blending sensuous silks with a hint of sexuality. Some looks however were a bit over the edge. The Red Riding Hood reference for instance, was just plain wrong.

Fendi 挑釁動物保育人士
本季「老佛爺」Karl Lagerfeld在Fendi的系列,在動物保護組織看來必然是赤裸裸的挑釁。Fendi的皮草染製技術自是無庸置疑,但把皮草染成熊呼嚎時的面龐,則讓人彷彿聽到動物被剝皮時的慘叫,只怕晚上要來找你索命。此外,讓模特兒清一色留起「北海小英雄」的維京人髮型,也使她們顯得過分陽剛,要說熊皮是他的親手剝製的,似乎也不是那麼不可置信。

不知「老佛爺」是否有意提醒大家穿皮草有多麼殘忍?

不知「老佛爺」是否有意提醒大家穿皮草有多麼殘忍?

Karl Lagerfeld is simply messing with PETA with this one. As if the abundance of fur was not bad enough, the Kaiser decided to add the screaming faces of suffering animals, just to add insult to injury.

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