2012秋冬女裝趨勢現象之驚世秀場 芽孢菌強壓陰屍路
2012 Fall Winter Fashion Week Roundup 1: Crazy Runway Moments


Marni 模特兒的素顏真相
模特兒有厭食症是八卦媒體每季必報的話題,但通常都以模特兒出面澄清:「我只是新陳代謝快」收場。種種偽善讓Marni設計師Consuelo Castiglioni再也看不下去,決定在本季揭露一切。只見在舞台上的女模們無不是面容消瘦,黑眼圈和凹陷臉頰令人不禁擔心她們會不會中途倒下。

看來模特兒是真的吃不飽。

看來模特兒是真的吃不飽。

I wouldn’t be surprised to know if Marni just sent their models onto the runway without any makeup, since that is how you are ought to look if you neither ate or slept enough, which is typically the case for models during the fashion week.

Junya Watanabe & Ann Demeulemeester 簡易秀場髮型 你也做得到
本季Junya Watanabe髮妝師的任務相當簡單,只消1. 準備一桶油漆; 2. 抓住模特兒的頭塞進桶中; 3. 擰乾;就算是大功告成。唯一的難題大概是如何讓臉維持乾淨,但這也不是幾層電工膠帶解決不了的事。Ann Demeulemeester的凌亂龐克造型,在台灣做起來可能相當複雜,但在巴黎只要灑上一把麵包屑,街邊的鴿子就會幫忙搞定。

Junya Watanabe(右一至二)本季「油漆」髮型和Ann Demeulemeester(左一)「鳥窩頭」。

Junya Watanabe(右一至二)本季「油漆」髮型和Ann Demeulemeester(左一)「鳥窩頭」。

Junya Watanabe and Ann Demeulemeester put on some of the most simply done hairstyles of the fashion weeks. While Junya’s look can be done with a bucket of paint and some duct tape, Ann’s punk influenced mess was probably the product of the pigeons of Paris and a grain of bread crumbs.

Comme des Garçons褶紙娃娃
川久保玲在本季表示「未來是平面的」,並且花了40套服裝來解釋這個概念。在彩度超高的硬挺布料之間,設計師把玩了縫份外露、超大印花、甚至在平面化的裙裝上,印上另一件平面裙裝,大開視覺玩笑,也諷刺現今時尚只看2D圖片論英雄的弊病。能為此不顧銷售數字,用一整個系列來闡述概念,讓人在瞠目結舌的同時也深感歎服。

Comme des Garcons本季全系列以平面化呈現。

Comme des Garcons本季全系列以平面化呈現。

While Rei Kawakubo’s collection did shock, there was nothing to make fun about. While it is a real issue that fashion is being 2-dimensionalized, there might be no other designer who would take it seriously, not to mention dedicating an entire collection to its critique, regardless of the sales figures. This is fashion as art at its best.««

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