2012春夏高級訂製服特別報導之三: Valentino高雅洛可可 Jean Paul Gaultier撩人性感
SS2012 Haute Couture: Being Elegant or Wild Sexy


Valentino的2012春夏高級訂製服系列有洛可可的高雅氣息。

Valentino的2012春夏高級訂製服系列有洛可可的高雅氣息。

»»優雅高貴算是高級訂製服不需言彙的基本範疇,但並非每個設計師都認同。Valentino的洛可可貴族風格與Elie Saab的晨光花園系列維護這傳統,但Jean Paul Gaultier的狂野性感與Martin Margiela的回收哲思,也以高超的工藝與剪裁,提供這系列另一種思維模式。

Valentino這季春夏高級訂製服,Pier Paolo Piccioli 與Maria Grazia Chiuri聯手打造一個洛可可風味的春之旅。高腰線條搭配曳地長裙,帶點帝政風格的復古,但絕非飄逸仙女版本,無論以印花厚緞或層層薄紗所剪裁之長裙,行走搖擺間布料的分量帶出高雅且泱泱大度的氣度,再搭配紗質立領或高領口設計,女模宛若親民的皇族,雖不刻意彰顯身分但尊貴無法隱藏。本季白色蕾絲的應用也非常精彩,布蕾絲井然有序的縫在長外套或長洋裝上,好似洛可可大理石建築上的雕飾,帶出溫潤的質地,而覆蓋手背的紗質蕾絲帶出女性精緻的手指線條。而精湛的刺繡與綴珠也呼應這華麗的年代,在半透明的雪紡上排列出洛可可式的圖騰,以最小限度的奢華低調點題。

Valentino的白色蕾絲與精緻的亮片釘繡,華麗之餘卻不顯彰揚。

Valentino的白色蕾絲與精緻的亮片釘繡,華麗之餘卻不顯彰揚。

同樣以淺色系過春天的Elie Saab則相對甜蜜少女。這季薄紗無所不在,前天Dior的高級訂製服系列才以精彩的50年代new look輪廓精彩演繹過,而紅地毯專家Elie Saab也用他的禮服系列再證明一次。在一片薄紗所組成的粉白、粉藍、粉橘、粉黃等粉色奏鳴曲中,設計師以輕柔的禮服將模特兒置身在清晨花園之中;纖細蝴蝶結皮帶下的半透明裙擺搖曳,花朵裝飾下,若隱若現的身軀只更顯清純,散布在網紗上的亮片與珠飾,恍若朝陽中沾露珠的蛛網微微閃爍,也許Elie Saab無法以新奇的設計驚豔買家,但穿上他設計禮服絕對能以優雅的氣質贏得眾人目光。

Elie Saab的2012春夏高級訂製服宛若粉嫩的晨間花園。

Elie Saab的2012春夏高級訂製服宛若粉嫩的晨間花園。

在英國R&B歌手Amy Winehouse的低沉嗓音中,頂著高聳假髮與粗黑眼線的女模,各個宛若這女歌手翻版,婀娜多姿的走上伸展台;Jean Paul Gaultier的繆思即是這位去年剛殞落的年輕歌手。此季設計師以其招牌妖嬈又清純的風格,以馬甲、貼身腰夾,塑造女體沙漏型性感感曲線;性感女秘書的形象也是本季的小主題,解構的風衣斜披在肩上,鏤空蕾絲從外套細縫間無辜的露出來,不對襯剪裁的套裝是設計師的另類挑逗。即使是寬大無趣的棒球外套,在Jean Paul Gaultier巧手下,硬是變成合身的紅色緊身衣,曲線畢露。即便結尾的幾套設計,女模頭頂薄紗,企圖裝扮清純新娘,但身上的黑蕾絲襯包住肌膚,充滿桃色遐想,替這季冷靜的高級訂製服發表,加筆戲劇性衝擊。

Jean Paul Gaultier本季以Amy Winehouse為繆思,雕塑女人撩人性感面貌。

Jean Paul Gaultier本季以Amy Winehouse為繆思,雕塑女人撩人性感面貌。

在這高級定製服發表期間,Martin Margiela的Artisanale collection在一片華服之中,亦顯突兀,平凡的款式中看得出做工精緻,材料卻是平凡庸俗到令人不願去想的日常生活物件。這一切呼應了此系列的初衷:日常生活的超越與轉化。這季回收材料帶點70年代嬉皮味,巴西編織彩色手環、流蘇舊抱枕、香檳瓶上的金箔、麻繩編織提袋等,在設計團隊的巧手下,這些看似無法製作衣服的物件,變成大衣、套裝、長洋裝等,甚至連高跟鞋的表面裝飾亦是酒瓶金箔所打點。整系列維持品牌慣長纖細簡潔輪廓,而女模面容照例被遮掩,設計師有意識地引導觀者在欣賞這庸俗元素組成的藝術服裝系列中,反思時尚與高級訂製服的另一種定義。««

Martin Margiela以回收再製的概念,替高級訂製服提出另一哲思。

Martin Margiela以回收再製的概念,替高級訂製服提出另一哲思。

»»Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri added rococo elegance to Valentino’s haute couture collection. Printed satin or layered chiffon long gowns were not that flaring but gracefully draping that models didn’t have to be condescended but still looked like aristocrats to some extents.

Elie Saab extravagantly manipulated chiffon and gossamer fabrics to construct a spring garden glimmering in the morning. Flaring skirts, floral embroideries, and light colors all contributed to the naïve and delightful image of the sugary girly look. Sequins and crystal beading on soft fabrics shimmered as if the dews exquisitely hung on the web, a truly spring scene.

Jean Paul Gaultier made his collection as the ode to Amy Winehouse by borrowing her signature swirling big wigs and black cat-eye eyeliners. This collection had nothing to do with elegance—the hidden convention of haute couture—but demonstrated the irresistible sexual allure of female. His signature corsetry and corsets shaped the hour-glass silhouette gowns. Even the black laces couldn’t cover the alluring attraction of female bodies but increased that atmosphere.

Martin Margiela’s artisanle collection was also a philosophical rebellious collection to the elegance-motif of haute couture. “Our most important sources of inspiration have always been excesses and the transformations of everyday life” said the design teams. This season macramé bags, Brazilian bracelets, cushion covers, foil hoods of champagne and so on were recycled. The excellent craftsmanship did morph those daily and vulgar objects into clothes which contained some intellectual reflective thinking. That might be another way to create fashion without luxurious materials.««

推到Facebook臉書!把這篇文章貼到twitter分享到微博!手機版網站