2012春夏高級訂製服特別報導之四: 老牌回歸實際 新銳前衛出線
SS2012 Haute Couture: Rules Followed and Broken


Valentino(左起)和Jean Paul Gaultier推出大眾能接受的實穿設計。

Valentino(左起)和Jean Paul Gaultier推出大眾能接受的實穿設計。

»»也許是受歐債危機影響,也或者是少了John Galliano戲劇性的設計手法,2012年春夏高級訂製服回歸實用本質,不論面料如何珍稀奢華、設計多麼華麗冶豔、高雅古典,今年春夏高級訂製服,多以大眾皆能接受的實穿設計為主,講究剪裁、挑剔用料。

誇張戲服過時 簡樸實際當道
每到高級訂製時裝周,時尚迷們無不引領期待,由John Galliano掌舵的Christian Dior又能替時尚帶來什麼驚喜,他富戲劇性的高級訂製服,總能滿足人們視覺的感官衝擊。去年由Bill Gaytten接手的第一季Dior高級訂製服,評價一面倒,被媒體罵翻,不過這次他似乎有備而來、穩紮穩打的以品牌招牌New Look為設計主軸,讓Dior回到品牌初創時的優雅。作風一向性感前衛的Jean Paul Gaultier也推出許多實穿的套裝及洋裝;深受職場女性喜愛的Chanel本季也以離頸領為主軸,以藍色為主的衣服簡單大方。

Less Drama, More Utility
Since John Galliano left Dior, the haute couture shows have lost some excitement, but that might not be a bad thing. Bill Gaytten’s second couture collection brought back Dior’s classic “New Look,” shaping female figures with elegance. Jean Paul Gautier preserved some dramatic features but also provided several suits and gowns for occasions. Chanel used lots wide-cutting stand-up collars suits and dresses, letting this blue-hue collection simple and chic.  

Jean Paul Gaultier(左起)、Christian Dior和Chanel推出實穿的套裝及洋裝。

Jean Paul Gaultier(左起)、Christian Dior和Chanel推出實穿的套裝及洋裝。

 

剪裁更顯立體 大玩建築結構
高級訂製服除了充滿串珠亮片,立體剪裁創造出的空間感之外,也能宛若雕塑般建築結構更別出心裁。Armani Privé的西裝外套,以墊肩小立領或三角型大翻領,塑造女強人般的剛毅線條;Stéphane Rolland則企圖在禮服「節外生枝」,在裙襬或領間創造出宛如藝術的雕塑品;Atelier Gustavo Lins則在複雜結構引領飄逸線條,以垂墜感與招牌和服剪裁,反襯女性堅毅樣貌;而一向狂放冶豔的Atelier Versace也加入了這班順風車,臀間形塑的立體線條,讓女人更顯性感。 

Draping Soft Structure
Sculptural structures became a main theme for many brands. Giorgio Armani’s shoulder-padding blazers shaped female tycoons. Stéphane Rolland added some sculptural details to decorate his gowns. In Atelier Gustavo Lins’ collection, the structures were complex but in a fluid shape. Atelier Versace also manipulated sophisticated cutting to shape curvaceous bottoms.

Armani Privé(左起)、Stéphane Rolland和Atelier Versace大玩建築結構。

Armani Privé(左起)、Stéphane Rolland和Atelier Versace大玩建築結構。

浪漫蕾絲薄紗 盡顯輕柔風情
春天就是要輕柔飄逸才顯得如沐春風,向沉悶的皮草毛料說再見,恣意的穿上蕾絲薄紗襯托氣質高雅。Elie Saab以薄紗交織而成的粉色奏鳴曲,讓人彷彿錯身晨露花園,若隱若現的蕾絲刺繡使人更顯純真;Valentino的洛可可春之旅,讓人滿足貴族名媛的遐想;Alexandre Vauthier的深V領高衩雪紡禮服,宛如希臘女神在世;Christian Dior則以網紗打造New look的俏麗感,或利用網紗的蓬鬆度,打造裙襯的大氣華貴。

Gossamer Romance
Translucent fabrics are always popular in the spring/summer collections. Elie Saab composed his garden look by extravagantly using yards of gossamer and chiffon. Valentino also used this delicate fabric to write its rococo style. Alexandre Vauthier also designed Greek-deity-like females while Christian Dior reinterpreted its New Look’s silhouette with semi-transparent visual effect. 

Valentino(左起)、Alexandre Vauthier和Elie Saab以薄紗顯現女人嬌柔風情。

Valentino(左起)、Alexandre Vauthier和Elie Saab以薄紗顯現女人嬌柔風情。

手工技法鬥艷 營造訂製服氣勢
高級訂製,比用料、比奢華、更要比全純手工的高超技藝。Givenchy這季發表的服飾令人讚嘆連連,將皮革一一拆解後,在片片拼貼成宛如鱷魚皮的禮服,或在皮革上雕花,使皮革有更多運用方式;Chanel頂級工坊的技藝也不在話下,將珠寶、亮片、串珠、蕾絲完美結合,並以層層皺摺收邊;Giambattista Valli的服裝游走於成衣和訂製服之間,手工技藝運用對他而言早已不是問題,在蕾絲上立體刺繡更是他的強項。

Paeans for Craftsmanship
Excellent craftsmanship is always the backbone of haute couture. Givenchy expressed this essence by cleverly exploring every possibility of leather. Chanel’s legendary craft studios supported the collection’s exquisite details. Giambattista Valli did master those elements and techniques, demonstrating in its luxurious pieces.

Givenchy(左起)、Chanel和Giambattista Valli手工技藝令人讚嘆。

Givenchy(左起)、Chanel和Giambattista Valli手工技藝令人讚嘆。

異材質闢江山 前衛女戰士
參展高級訂製服的品牌日益減少,仍有一批設計新銳勇敢挺進這塊「寸土寸金」的領域,並以各式前衛創意與材質,試圖顛覆市場對高級訂製服的想像。華裔法國設計師殷亦晴(Yiqing Yin),擅長使用細褶雕塑線條,在柔美的布料中創造出如盔甲般的堅挺;荷蘭新銳Iris van Herpen,則以金屬材質,打造出最美麗的女戰士,甚至還創造出如「魟魚」般的禮服。而Martin Margiela的Artisanale collection,則以回收材料如巴西編織彩色手環、流蘇舊抱枕、香檳瓶上的金箔、麻繩編織提袋等,讓人反思高級訂製服的定義。

New Hands and New Concepts
While more designers join the field of haute couture, they also innovates this genre to some extents. Yiqing Yin pleated soft clothes to form a concrete shape. Iris van Herpen managed to use mental material to cut dresses. Martin Magiela played the word, recycling. Many recycled materials not only formed the artisan collection but also provided anther not-so-luxury definition of haute couture. ««

Yiqing Yin(左起)、Iris van Herpen和Martin Margiela Artisanale以異材質突破重圍。

Yiqing Yin(左起)、Iris van Herpen和Martin Margiela Artisanale以異材質突破重圍。

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