2012時尚大事件
The Most Important Events of 2012


2012年究竟發生哪些時尚芝麻大小事,值得好好審思。圖為Dolce & Gabbana 2013春夏後台。

2012年究竟發生哪些時尚芝麻大小事,值得好好審思。圖為Dolce & Gabbana 2013春夏後台。

»»根據英國牛津字典選出「omnishambles」(全面失控)為2012年代表字,各個國家也老早掀起年度代表字潮流,對台灣民眾而言,憂心、不安,還有油電雙漲的「漲」字似乎代表小老百姓心聲,但就時尚界而言,紛擾是絕對存在,尤其今年以人為中心,爭執、犯口業不只一樁,也出現不少無妄之災;想風光只能各憑本事,在年末最後一刻搶得值得紀念門票。

Cathy Horyn左爭Oscar de la Ranta 右批Hedi Slimane
媒體評論家Cathy Horyn最有guts,敢講話無謂強權,相對也為自己惹來一身腥。2013春夏先是批評Osca de Renta一番庸俗「熱狗」論,引起老先生登報怒嗆Cathy Horyn是哪根蔥,隨後Lady Gaga這位前仇人也臨門在Mugler春夏發表會配樂中湊一腳。緊接著Yves Saint Paris春夏槓上新設計師Hedi Slimane,只因Cathy Horyn說了Hedi Slimane設計少新意,促使Hedi本人親上火線開炮,這麼不畏人言,只有Cathy Horyn敢做敢當。
Cathy Horyn is on fire in 2012. While she has always believed in her taste that she never has fear to write anything, in 2013 SS fashion weeks, she described Oscar de la Renta’s design as common as a “hotdog”, while telling Hedi Slimane, “Where are your creativities?” To respond, Oscar de la Renta bought a page of WWD to fight back with the support of Lady Gaga, using lyrics in Mugler’s 2013 SS fashion show. For Hedi Slimane, he directly critics Cathy Horyn as a woman with no taste, that brought to another climax of the fight.

Cathy Horyn的肖像也出現在Barney’s百貨與迪士尼合作的宣傳卡通中,而其現實生活的文字落筆也常和設計師宣戰。

Cathy Horyn的肖像也出現在Barney’s百貨與迪士尼合作的宣傳卡通中,而其現實生活的文字落筆也常和設計師宣戰。

熱愛政治的Anna Wintour外交官疑雲搶鏡
Anna Wintour會上榜,不外乎沾了歐巴馬的光。年初大都會博物館展覽風光落幕後,隨之2013春夏時裝周開跑,Anna Wintour不忙看秀,反而動用自己媒體資源號召設計師為歐巴馬聯名設計募款,更跑到倫敦和巴黎辦餐會請大家多幫忙,讓大家都在猜測這位時尚女魔頭是否想轉戰仕途,尤其最後傳出外交官名單有她,更是令人震驚。 
The reason Anna Wintour is on the list is the 2012 presidential election of U.S. During the 2013 SS fashion week, she skipped fair amount of shows to just show her support to president Obama by hosting many charity dinners. By using her connection in media, president Obama did elected as the new president of U.S. successfully. For this, many people are guessing if she will become the next ambassador of U.S. who will reside in London.

Anna Wintour愛政治似乎快和愛時尚沒兩樣。

Anna Wintour愛政治似乎快和愛時尚沒兩樣。

Raf Simons與Hedi Slimane的瑜亮情結無止境
自從Raf Simons確定接任Dior設計師一職,大家都看好他未來前途無量,相對讓同輩份的Hedi Slimane稍晚數月復出備感壓力,因為Yves Saint Paris 2013春夏首度發表,引來爭議不斷,包含品牌正名、專賣店空間設計大改變,時裝秀現場取消部分媒體座次等,無不讓Hedi Slimane被掛上耍大牌負面觀感,加上首度復出處女秀評價兩極,勁敵Dior又被全球採購大大讚賞,兩大品牌兩大設計師心結愈結愈深。
Raf Simons’ Dior debut collection has earned a great reputation. Hedi Slimane, on the other hand, with the change of brand’s name, the studio location, and the alternation of the sitting list for his 2013 SS fashion show, the mark of “arrogant” has been following him since.

Raf Simons(右)與Hedi Slimane(左)是否心結愈結愈深,有待觀察。

Raf Simons(右)與Hedi Slimane(左)是否心結愈結愈深,有待觀察。

Nicolas Ghesquière不留戀 再見Balenciaga
11月初Balenciaga發表官方聲明表示Nicolas Ghesquière將於月底離職,消息之迅速,令人毫無招架之地,接踵而來的是新創意總監名單確認,似乎無人再哀戚已做了15年的Nicolas Ghesquière。老實說,最初Nicolas Ghesquière並不被看好接掌大任,那時的老闆Jacques Konckier中意的是 Helmut Lang,全憑其努力坐上大位。如今,Nicolas Ghesquière暫時離開時尚界休息一陣子,期待養精蓄銳再回歸。
In the beginning of November, Balenciaga has announced the leaving of Nicolas Ghesquière. While shocking, the decision has been made and he did left at the end of the month. For the 15 years of glory, Nicolas Ghesquière definitely steps down with applauses.

Nicolas Ghesquière暫告離開時尚舞台,甚感可惜。

Nicolas Ghesquière暫告離開時尚舞台,甚感可惜。

Alexander WangRaf SimonsStella McCartney當紅炸子雞
今年大紅大紫的設計師們,Raf Simons絕對榜上有名,因為自從接下Dior設計師職務後,品牌買氣與個人人氣皆紅不讓;年度蹦出的黑馬Alexander Wang更是聲勢看俏,因為以亞裔設計師身分入主Balenciaga,一肩挑起品牌重任。Stella McCartney還被Google票選為2012年度搜尋最多的品牌,除此設計師本人亦在2012英倫時尚大獎掄下雙冠王封號,奪得最佳設計品牌與最佳設計師雙大獎,運勢無法擋。
For the names to watch for 2012, Raf Simons earned himself a seat due to his great performance in Dior. Alexander Wang has been an attention catcher after his join for Balenciaga as the creative director. Stella McCartney, last but not least, is the winner of 2012. While being named as the most researched brand by google, she also earned 2 grand prices in 2012 British Fashion Award as the queen of fashion in 2012.

左至右為Alexander Wang、Stella McCartney與Raf Simons,他們可說是2012年度當紅設計師。

左至右為Alexander Wang、Stella McCartney與Raf Simons,他們可說是2012年度當紅設計師。

Vidal Sosson等時尚重量級人物 相繼辭世
有喜亦有悲,2012年送走不少資深時尚人物,他們對時尚有著莫大影響力。5月時,於60年代發表鮑伯頭的Vidal Sosson,病逝於洛杉磯家中,享年84歲,想當初他所打造的鮑伯短髮依舊暢紅於時尚界;8月又迎接另一悲痛事實,誇張時裝風格遊走各大時裝周,並對不少設計師產生影響的Anna Piaggi,亦宣告離開人世,徒讓Kal Lagerfeld與Manolo Blahnik等設計師感到婉惜。不僅如此,相隔不到數日,Helen Gurley Brown這位〈柯夢波丹〉創辦人兼總編輯,同時也是「西雅圖夜未眠」等膾炙電影編劇,也因病離世,另外還有電視劇「朝代」的服裝造型師Nolan Miller亦於6月辭世,時尚界光是2012年便送走不少大咖級人物。願這些經典與世共存。
As Vidal Sassoon, Anna Piaggi, Cosmopolitan founder, former editor-in-chief Helen Gurley Brown and much revered costume designer Nolan Miller all left us within a year, other old timer designers may start to feel a bit lonely now.

左至右為Vidal Sosson、Anna Piaggi與Helen Gurley Brown,他們對時尚界有莫大貢獻,但都於2012年相繼過世。

左至右為Vidal Sosson、Anna Piaggi與Helen Gurley Brown,他們對時尚界有莫大貢獻,但都於2012年相繼過世。


推到Facebook臉書!把這篇文章貼到twitter分享到微博!手機版網站