2012秋冬女裝趨勢現象之彩妝 清淡妝容當道 煙燻眼妝不墜
2012 Fall Winter Fashion Week Roundup 3: Simplicity of Beauty


簡約的妝容不僅能搭配中性裝扮,也能讓淑女更優雅。

簡約的妝容不僅能搭配中性裝扮,也能讓淑女更優雅。

»»中性風席捲秋冬伸展台,不僅預告帥氣的褲裝與西裝大衣將侵占女性秋冬衣櫃,且似乎五顏六色的彩妝細節也簡化許多,完美裸妝成主流,僅剩些許色彩沾染唇瓣與雙眼。而髮型上也呼應這股簡單風潮,且向男裝借用的帽飾變成重要裝扮,浪漫的大捲髮或戲劇化的髮髻甚少出現,而收束整齊的簡潔髮型成為本次四大時裝周的共識。

Trend 1:清新妝感
如果秋冬女裝都紛紛收斂起色彩與性感風情,那彩妝上自然也會配合此潮流,清淡的妝容甚至裸妝皆是本季的主打,僅有少數品牌以粉紅腮紅輕鋪出甜美的一面。中性版的清新妝容出現在Calvin Klein、Balmain、Proenza Schouler和Max Mara的秀台上,與中性服飾相呼應;優雅版的淡妝則由Dior、Chloé、Valentino和Emilio Pucci的淑女詮釋。而Dolce& Gabbana、Michael Kors、Oscar de la Renta和Ralph Lauren則皆以宛若俄羅斯娃娃白裡透紅的兩頰,讓秋冬亦能有甜美笑顏相伴。

Nude Beauty
In order to echo the neutral-look trend, simplicity in beauty were appreciated by majority of the brands in winters. While Calvin Klein, Balmain, Proenza Schouler, and Max Mara applied the nude faces for their mannish beauty, Dior, Chloé, Valentino, and Emilio Pucci also manipulated this light brush to decorate the elegance of ladylook. Also, Dolce& Gabbana, Michael Kors, Oscar de la Renta and Ralph Lauren preferred pink cheeks to preserve the sweetness on the runway.

乾淨裸妝是搭配中性風首選,但白裡透紅的兩頰也能簡單帶出少女氛圍。

乾淨裸妝是搭配中性風首選,但白裡透紅的兩頰也能簡單帶出少女氛圍。

Trend 2:色感眼妝 
雖然男風襲來中性當道,但適當的眼妝顏色運用才不會讓秋冬眼神黯然失色。本季眼皮上的戲碼可分為兩種:繽紛的色感眼妝或是以黑色為基調的煙燻魅力,都將會是秋冬眼神眉戲的關鍵。繽紛的色彩在各大時裝周裡都有設計師擁護,紐約Jason Wu以孔雀綠與中國主題呼,Narciso Rodriguez 以鮮黃暈染出新潮的氛圍,Anna Sui則以鈷藍在上下眼皮中點出品牌的俏麗。米蘭則有Emporio Armani的酒紅貓眼,Prada暈染到眉毛的黑橘對比,當然Roberto Cavalli也是以各種金屬眼色釋放伸展台的野性魅力。巴黎的色彩眼戲則更加多元,Dries Van Noten以橘色眼妝瀰漫出新東方味,而Stella McCartney的鮮藍睫毛則在簡單裸妝中添抹清新洗鍊,Miu Miu的白藍線條眼妝也許有些誇張,但Chanel彩石裝飾睫毛則以精緻立體感呼應本季水晶主設計。

Colors on the Eyes
Without complicated decoration on faces, colors on eyelids became the main visual vocabulary in many presentations. Jason Wu, Narciso Rodriguez, Anna Sui, Emporio Armani and Dries Van Noten just chose one color to decorate those models faces while Roberto Cavalli, Miu Miu and Prada preferred more and made stronger statement on eyes. Stella McCartney and Chanel put their colors in another ways, the former used light blue mascara and the latter used crystals with colors to create 3D effect on eyebrows.

搶眼的色彩搭配成為秀台上的眼戲精隨。

搶眼的色彩搭配成為秀台上的眼戲精隨。

Trend 3:煙燻迷茫 
秋冬妝容的基本盤之一煙燻妝,自然不會在伸展台缺席,而從咖啡微醺到深黑眼線都自有擁護者。清淡版有Derek Lam,僅以淡可可色搭配白色開眼頭,點出眼神深邃;Burberry Prorsum、Salvatore Ferragamo與Givenchy則是以各種棕色與英挺眉型,薰染呼應本季中性流風;當然重黑搖滾煙燻是Galliano、Givenchy與Versace的最愛,粗黑貓眼眼線則是Lanvin、Jean Paul Gaultier和Versus本季個性選擇。其中由Marc Jacobs掌舵的同名品牌與Louis Vuitton則是將黑色筆觸延伸到下眼皮,以熊貓眼搭粗黑眉型把玩古怪趣味。

Smoky Seduction
Smoky eye would never disappear in fall. The tone of brownish smoky colors may as light as Derek Lam’s and as strong as Burberry Prorsum’s, Salvatore Ferragamo’s and Givenchy’s with a strong eyebows. Rock version was selected by Galliano, Givenchy and Versace while Lanvin, Jean Paul Gaultier and Versus preferred black eyeliners. Louis Vuitton and Marc Jacobs just let the black run below the eyes making models become panda-like chicness.

各式煙燻眼眸是每年秋冬眼妝首選。

各式煙燻眼眸是每年秋冬眼妝首選。

Trend 4:唇色正艷 
除眼妝有些許色彩妝點外,唇彩亦是能在素雅底妝上增添焦點。不比眼妝五顏六色,鮮艷紅唇與深色唇彩是秋冬眾家設計師的共識。Gucci、Rochas、Etro、Bottega Veneta與Yves Saint Laurent以近黑色的暗紅唇妝呼應冬季女性柔中帶剛的深色浪漫;而Jil Sander、Nina Ricci、Cacharel與Marc by Marc Jacobs則以鮮艷的各色紅唇,點綴簡約女性化的系列。戲劇化氛圍則由狼人主題Viktor & Rolf的黑艷唇色與Rick Owens禁錮在針織頭套的嬌鮮紅唇詮釋,以最少的唇彩提點主題。

Lip Statement
Lip gloss was another focus in the winter. While Gucci, Rochas, Etro, Bottega Veneta, and Yves Saint Laurent chose dark reddish tones which were even like black, light red kips appeared in Jil Sander、Nina Ricci、Cacharel and Marc by Marc Jacobs . The most dramatic lips appeared on Viktor & Rolf and Rick Owens, they either chose blackish red or bright red to decorate their dramatic motifs.

乾淨底妝上,強烈的唇色能彰顯主題。

乾淨底妝上,強烈的唇色能彰顯主題。

Trend 5:乾淨髮絲 
帽飾盛行下,簡單乾淨的髮型成為伸展台造型首選。偏好俐落馬尾的有Chanel、Dior、Calvin Klein、Jil Sander,雖然他們的服裝風格分別從未來感到優雅女人味都有。而富光澤感的簡約髮髻也是秀台首選,Stella McCartney、Yves Saint Laurent、Bottega Veneta和Max Mara皆挽起千褸髮絲,收斂起長髮飄逸的女人味,僅有Valentino的側邊髮髻仍散發出擋不住的纖細浪漫。

Neat Hairstyle
Because headwear played an important part in winter, simply hairstyle was preferred. Ponytails appeared in Chanel, Dior, Calvin Klein, Jil Sander and so on though they shared diverse look in dresses.  Stella McCartney, Yves Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and Max Mara would prefer red a simple chignon to echo their neutral look while Valentino’s chignon possessed a touch a romance.««

簡單的髮髻或俐落的馬尾是本次伸展台上最常出現的髮型。

簡單的髮髻或俐落的馬尾是本次伸展台上最常出現的髮型。

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