2012秋冬女裝趨勢現象之重金造景 從水晶礦坑到東方快車
2012 Fall Winter Fashion Week Roundup 2: Splendid Narrations on Stage


»»服裝發表會不只是單純展示衣服而已,有好的舞台造景更能引人融入設計氛圍。Louis Vuitton懸掛在背景的大鐘,不僅倒數開場,也倒述了復古的時代氛圍;Chanel巨型水晶柱蔓延會場,大器地呼應了秋冬主題;若巧妙運用鏡柱、燙衣台或是飄雪,也能讓空間敘述時尚故事。

自從John Galliano離開Dior後,似乎每季就少了場發表會奇觀,幸好Louis Vuitton與Chanel仍維繫大牌發表會的壯麗傳統,耗巨資打造壯觀秀場震驚服裝周。Chanel的2012春夏是雪白海底世界,而秋冬發表則以水晶巨柱叢改造法國巴黎大皇宮,打造華麗礦坑以呼應閃著礦物色澤的秋冬服飾。水晶不僅蔓延會場,妝點跟鞋,其岩石結理也成為外套的幾何裝飾與結構,從服裝到空間,完整呈現Karl Lagerfeld的水晶狂想曲。在巴黎時裝周最後一天發表的Louis Vuitton壓軸大秀則辦在羅浮宮十字廣場(Cour Carrée du Louvre)的棚內,場內瀰漫著夜色下,眾人排坐月台兩旁等待,火車頭鳴笛,緩緩駛進會場載來滿車名媛淑女,任行李員服侍下,展示品牌鑲嵌幾何色片裝飾的復古新服飾。

Chanel的水晶礦坑氣勢驚人。

Chanel的水晶礦坑氣勢驚人。

Marc Jacobs不只在Louis Vuitton的秀場上擺出火車頭大陣仗,在自己的品牌紐約發表會裡,也與雕塑家Rachel Feinstein合作,以紙雕大城堡打破眾人對紐約時裝周「務實」的刻板印象。藍色場燈讓白色紙城堡沾染冰雪質感,頭頂毛茸茸大帽子的古怪女孩,或是穿梭在城堡間,或是繞著水塘轉,編織Marc Jacobs的秋冬童話。米蘭的奢華則是聚焦Dolce & Gabbana的金色巴洛克,在十六座雙層水晶燈與T台盡頭的巨型金色畫框裝飾下,女模宛若從古畫中走出,詮釋這金碧輝煌的浪漫系列。

Marc Jacobs的城堡呼應服裝的童話氣氛。

Marc Jacobs的城堡呼應服裝的童話氣氛。

本季秀場的怪誕案例,則由哥德大老Rick Owens與怪點子一堆的Viktor & Rolf雙人組負責。Rick Owens開場瞬間,火苗延燒背景鐵架,帶著編織頭罩的灰衣女模緩緩走出,搭配歌手Zebra Katz 的「Ima Read」擾人歌詞,她們恍若呢喃著異世界的咒語;謝幕時則像是眾多長裙女巫傾巢而出舉辦祭典,Rick Owens式的歌德浪漫也只有知音能懂。Viktor & Rolf則是以狼人夜路作為本次主題,碩大的滿月下,人形剪影緩緩移動開場,衣服還未亮相就已讓神祕氛圍滿點。

Viktor & Rolf的滿月夜得小心狼人出沒。

Viktor & Rolf的滿月夜得小心狼人出沒。

即使沒有戲劇化元素,簡單的舞台裝置或利用現場特色,一樣能讓發表會別出心裁。如倫敦說風說雨的善變天氣,成為本季Burberry發表的神來一筆,在玻璃溫室的發表會場外突然雨聲瀝瀝,同時室內亮片雪花紛飛中,女模在眾人掌聲中魚貫持傘走出,成為本季謝幕經典畫面。Alexander Wang秋冬的前衛感則由光學鏡宮演繹,模特兒本尊穿著結構運動裝走出,同時四周鏡柱亦折射出該服裝的其他面向,在鏡影重重中,增添視覺魔幻未來感。Kenzo則選在巴黎第六大學(Université Pierre et Marie Curie)辦秀,以霓虹燈管與鮮紅、鮮黃色調讓三層樓挑高空間異常活潑,迴廊即是現成空間分隔,手扶梯則負責運送模特兒進會場,輕鬆呈現Kenzo的霓彩休閒服飾的都會感。

鏡宮折射出Alexander Wang的前衛運動感。

鏡宮折射出Alexander Wang的前衛運動感。

相較於上述精心設計的場景,Issey Miyake將蒸汽熨斗搬上伸展台,難道是新任設計師Yoshiyuki Miyamae無法及時完成秀服得現場趕工?這緊張的橋段僅是凸顯新布料「Steam Stretch」的特性,精密計算織成的布塊在高溫蒸氣下,連身裝收縮成形,模特兒隨即穿上走秀,榮登本季最科技的舞台橋段。««

Issey Miyake上演秀場即製即穿的高科技布料秀。

Issey Miyake上演秀場即製即穿的高科技布料秀。

»»Fashion shows are not only about clothes but also about theatrical scenery. Chanel’s setting was a grand mineral pit of gigantic crystals which expressed Karl Lagerfeld’s mineral motif well. Louis Vuitton also surprised fashion savvies by letting a train run into the show to narrate its elegant collection with nostalgia. Marc Jacobs also applied this dramatic touch to his namesake brand. Collaborating with Rachel Feinstein, he constructed a white paper castle to stage his fairy girly winter collections. Milano spectacle could be spotted on Dolce & Gabbana’s golden runway. 16 Two-tiered chandeliers and huge Baroque frame decorated the luxurious and splendid lines-ups properly.

Rick Owens and Viktor & Rolf were responsible for the creepy scenery as usual. The former applied fire frames on the background to express his witchery rite with black magic and a bit of grayish romanticism while the latter let full moon and paper-cut silhouettes to interpret its werewolf-attacked collection.

There were still some memorable presentations even without dramatic stages. While Burberry’s models walked in for curtain call with umbrellas, there were snow-like flakes flying along with a sudden real rain outside the glass house. Alexander Wang used mirror pillars to reflect his futuristic concept and collections. Kenzo chose Université Pierre et Marie Curie to present its sporty lines ups by adopting the three-floored tall space into a colorful stage and transporting models with escalators. Issey Miyake’s presentation was also a surprise because they let the process of clothes making as part of the show to highlight its new fabric, “Steam Stretch.”««

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