2012秋冬女裝趨勢現象之驚世秀場 芽孢菌強壓陰屍路
2012 Fall Winter Fashion Week Roundup 1: Crazy Runway Moments


Thom Browne「恐龍裝」。

Thom Browne「恐龍裝」。

»»本季四大周秀場中,都少不了讓人受到驚嚇的創意。Thom Browne和Viktor & Rolf讓秀場變身恐怖片廠;Jeremy Scott和Meadham Kirchhoff各自在虛擬世界闖出一片天;Alexander McQueen、Gareth Pugh和Fendi選擇各式奇妙生物做為靈感;而Marni、Junya Watanabe和Ann Demeulemeester則在妝髮上「各擅勝場」。

Thom Browne可愛動物定居陰屍路
從俏皮的短西裝起家,Thom Browne的幽默感不斷升級,本季秀場創意冠絕群倫,證明不用像Louis Vuitton一樣大手筆出動火車,也可以進佔媒體版面。當全場Model臉罩「裹屍布」,在慘白螢光下從棺材中爬出時,若非主持人宣布他們是「熱愛時尚的友善冤魂」,恐怕滿場嘉賓都會嚇得奪門而出吧!但燈光打亮之後,就會發現Thom Browne屬意的主題其實是「可愛動物秀」,造形扁平如飛鼠的卡通造型狐狸,顯然在惡搞皮草氾濫的紐約時裝周;而另一套「恐龍裝」則搭配了長達3公尺的尾巴。值得一提的是棺材的內裝看來相當舒適,若是Browne先生沒有其他打算,搬回家改做床鋪也很合用。

本季棺材主題和可愛動物兩相對比,讓人啞然失笑。

本季棺材主題和可愛動物兩相對比,讓人啞然失笑。

Thom Browne certainly knows how to get in the limelight. With all the cemetery vibe going on, coffin and veil included, the show-goers might have fled the venue if it wasn’t for the softening touches such as the flat cartoonish fox throw and the 3 meter long alligator tail.

Viktor& Rolf月光光心慌慌
Viktor & Rolf向來是玩心十足的代名詞,各種尺度變化、上下顛倒或是從中截斷禮服都是拿手好戲;本季在服裝上的創意似乎用罄,轉而在秀場上動腦筋。在一輪明月高掛的布景中上演的狼人生活史,從變身過程到爭風打架都一應俱全,讓人不禁期待兩位設計師謝幕時,也能長出鬃毛和獠牙。狼人最愛的獵物-穿著睡衣的美女也沒有缺席,雪紡紗和天鵝絨的拼接相當富技巧性的露出兩點,而據占據有利位置的Style.com編輯表示,對第三點的保護也是付之闕如。

Viktor & Rolf本季睡衣美女和狼人對比相當鮮明。

Viktor & Rolf本季睡衣美女和狼人對比相當鮮明。

Viktor & Rolf made their own rendition of “underworld” where sensuously dressed beauties meets werewolves. Under the bright moonshine that lit up the venue, fur coats were cut up in the fashion of dog-fight wounds, whereas the evening gowns were made a conspicuously revealing chiffon.

Jeremy Scott宅男網路世界
Jeremy Scott是雷人設計名單中的常客,本季也不例外。在為Adidas推出豹尾球鞋後,本季印花中屢屢出現表情符號,與下半身的電腦鍵盤互相呼應,在秀末還讓表情符號大玩「溶解」,不知是否在控訴網路上癮對生活的殘害。90年代是Jeremy Scott本季的另一元素,但設計師執意重現了十年中最糟的品味,銳舞(Rave)派對中的螢光霓虹裝質感還是一樣廉價;全秀中唯一令人懷念的,恐怕是「辛普森家族」(The Simpsons)中的霸子了。

Jeremy Scott過去半年是否花了太多時間上網。

Jeremy Scott過去半年是否花了太多時間上網。

Jeremy Scott has never been anything less than shocking. This time in turn he was all over the 90s, from the smilies, which probably referred to the internet boom to perhaps of the most memorable character of the decade, Bart from “The Simpsons”, along with some less pleasant elements, such as the kitsch outfits from the rave scene.

Meadham Kirchhoff卡通電影趴夜驚魂
雖然公關功力略遜Jeremy Scott一籌,Meadham Kirchhoff搞怪修為絕對是輸人不輸陣。本季系列以娛樂導向,宣稱要創造「心目中完美的夜店場景」,但全秀的造型卻讓人懷疑設計師周五晚上的例行活動並不是前往Soho區夜店,而是窩在家裡看PPS。全秀中能看到的卡漫電影人物從「怪獸電力公司」(Monster Inc.)中的毛怪、「星際大戰首部曲」(Star Wars: Episode I – the Phantom Menace)大反派Darth Maul、「阿凡達」(Avatar)等一應俱全,眼尖的讀者可能還會看到「愛麗絲夢遊仙境」(Alice in Wonderland)中的柴郡貓(Cheshire Cat),隱形到一半被抓個正著,拖著尾巴帶上秀場。

毛怪(左)、Darth Maul(中)和隱形到只剩尾巴的柴郡貓。

毛怪(左)、Darth Maul(中)和隱形到只剩尾巴的柴郡貓。

Meadham Kirchhoff may not have won as many collaborations as Mr. Scott but certainly didn’t fall short in the shock category. In what the designer duo claimed to be their “ideal nightclub scene”, emerged a mesh of cartoon and comic book characters, which ranged from “Sully” from “Monster Inc” to Darth Maul from Star Wars Episode I and everything in between.

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