2012秋冬男裝特別報導之九: Dior Homme軍裝風情 Ann Demeulemeester回到未來
FW2012 Men’s Collections: Keeping it Real


Dior Homme 2012秋冬軍事元素相當真實。

Dior Homme 2012秋冬軍事元素相當真實。

»»在花團錦簇的2012秋冬男裝周間,巴黎的倒數第二日顯得冷調不少;Dior Homme取材自韓戰,忠實呈現軍裝風貌;Ann Demeulemeester將復古剪裁帶入未來;Maison Martin Margiela在實穿與創意之間兵分二路;Hermès以低調奢華呈現頂級皮革;Raf Simons則回顧自己90年代的街頭元素。

當眾設計師都推出懷舊軍裝系列時,Kris van Assche決意在Dior Homme展現軍服的真實風貌。幾近披風的軍大衣,加上M-51與M-65軍用風衣,以及B-3飛行夾克,令人想起韓戰大撤退的冰天雪地;綴以鴨舌帽與麥克阿瑟式太陽眼鏡,更增添一份真實感;標誌性的直筒西裝外套,也加上了腰部調整環等實用細節。秀終以飛鳥模擬迷彩的印花,則為系列增添一抹浪漫色彩。

Ann Demeulemeester告別了19世紀波西米亞風,宣告全面蛻變。春夏女裝中絕美的漸層染色在全系列中不斷重現,甚至出人意表地加入搶眼紅藍色調,打破以往黑白當道的局面;取材自大禮服(Morning Coat)與19世紀軍裝,帶有可扣駁頭(lapel)的外套,剪裁仍富歷史氣息,但細節則由披披掛掛轉向極簡,搭配光澤緞面材質,為系列加入了未來感。

Ann Demeulemeester 2012秋冬告別復古。

Ann Demeulemeester 2012秋冬告別復古。

Maison Martin Margiela重溫品牌經典元素,以駝色為基調構築雙排釦大衣、海軍外套與風衣等經典男裝元素,持續提升可穿性。但既然肩負Margiela之名,系列中仍不乏令人眼前一亮的回收元素,剪裁銳利的大衣,材質實為塑膠袋;垃圾袋與塑膠繩組合的羽絨衣,更像是流浪漢的禦寒措施;而一套可變化成背心、長褲與外套的機車裝,活用的穿搭方式令人玩味。

Maison Martin Margiela 2012秋冬結合實穿與瘋狂創意。

Maison Martin Margiela 2012秋冬結合實穿與瘋狂創意。

Véronique Nichanian處理Hermès頂級材質得心應手,不論是貼合身形的西裝,以第一次世界大戰飛行員為靈感的大衣,乃至柔軟的皮褲與襯衫,全由小牛皮、小羊毛皮與招牌鱷魚皮製作,與微妙的紫紅與海軍藍色調,盡顯低調奢華。Raf Simons回溯到了他90年代的青少年滑板時期;科技感鏤空材質毛衣、多色吊染的大號t-shirt、絎缝大衣與毛帽,與剪裁一貫銳利的西裝搭配,再度展現混搭功力。唯清一色的短褲在巴黎冬季的寒風中,令人不禁替男模們的小腿擔心。

Hermès(左一至二)延續皮革傳統;Raf Simons(右一至二)融合街頭元素。

Hermès(左一至二)延續皮革傳統;Raf Simons(右一至二)融合街頭元素。

在上季以全黑系列跌破眾人眼鏡後,Damir Doma本季又恢復了民族風,但主題由中東繼續東遊,來到喜馬拉雅山麓。藏風印染搭配佛珠,帶出psych-trance式的宗教氣息。而不斷出現的皮草背心,則帶給系列難得的華貴。比利時怪才Walter van Beirendonck本季則從非洲採集靈感,以圖騰印染搭配他慣用的搶眼螢光色調創作拼接西裝;融合傳統藝術與動物特徵的面具,與系列中不時出現的鐵鍊配飾,則強烈暗示了Walter van Beirendonck作品中的SM元素。««

Damir Doma(左一至二)使用西藏民族元素;Walter van Beirendonck(右一至二)則師法非洲。

Damir Doma(左一至二)使用西藏民族元素;Walter van Beirendonck(右一至二)則師法非洲。

»»Kris van Assche took notes from the Korean War for his own rendition of military themes, putting together a collection filled with army green greatcoats, M-51 and M-65 Parkas as well as flight jackets. The harshness of the battlefield was somewhat softened by the whimsical transformation of camouflage into patches of dove prints.

Ann Demeulemeester took the dip-dyed gradations from her SS2012 women’s line and turned it into a full fledged collection, hues of red and blue were added into the mix for a breeze of freshness. While the coat were still largely based on Victorian cuts, the details were far more streamlined than in the past to create an almost futuristic atmosphere.

Maison Martin Margiela took a polarized approach, while on one hand staple pieces such as camel colored coats were revisited, crazy experiments were carried out on the other, which led to the abundance of “recycle bin” parkas and motorcycle suits that transforms into separate jackets, vests and trousers.

Hermès continued its relentless endeavor in leatherwear, creating World War inspired flight jackets, sharply tailored suits and shirts out of a mix of calf, shearling and alligator leather. Raf Simons traced back to his skateboarding roots in the 90s, mixing and matching tech fabric sweaters, dip dyed t-shirts and shorts with sharply tailored suits.

Damir Doma returned to his ethnic roots, but looked further east to the foot of the Himalayas. The Tibetan prints and the Buddhist beads combined for a psy-trance religious vibe, whereas the extensive use of fur provided a sense of nomadic luxury. Walter van Beirendonck once again came up with a jaw dropping ensemble, featuring African prints patched suits and tribal masks with a sadomasochist twist.««

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