2012秋冬男裝特別報導之十: Lanvin休閒瀟灑 Thom Browne龐克巨怪
FW2012 Men’s Collections: Lanvin with Soft Handsomeness, Thom Browne with Dramatic Grotesque


Lanvin秋冬男裝在正式中又帶有休閒瀟灑。

Lanvin秋冬男裝在正式中又帶有休閒瀟灑。

»»巴黎男裝周的最後一天,Lanvin以洗練的手法結合西服與運動元素,型塑瀟灑新男性;Thom Brown則照往例以戲劇性手法,對比纖細的龐克與寬肩變形的巨人,刻畫品牌弔詭形象;Paul Smith則以夜晚海洋意象,貫穿整季實穿的單品;而Agnès B.與Acne則以各自詮釋的青春少年,提供今秋男裝另一種選擇。

本季的Lanvin男裝中,Lucas Ossendrijver在秋冬厚重的款式裡,巧妙地結合運動元素與柔性的色彩,刻劃出男性瀟灑正式與休閒的多樣貌。落肩設計多次出現在大衣或上衣中,以圓弧的線條和緩寬肩與厚重毛料的壓迫感;而水鴨藍、橘灰橫條或帶漸層的格紋毛呢花色,以不張揚的柔和色調,襯托男性的瀟灑。而高腰褲雖有點70年代復古味,但合身的褲管紮進高筒運動鞋中,不僅使腿部線條修長,也讓正式中帶些隨意休閒的現代感。

而本季的配件正是此季畫龍點睛的單品,男模穿著細節繁複的高筒運動靴,或戴拼接手套提著扁而窄的方型公事箱,大型運動軟包款也多次出現;這類休閒元素的細節,賦予整個男裝系列低調又多元的視覺層次。

帶有運動風的配件是本季Lanvin畫龍點睛的關鍵。

帶有運動風的配件是本季Lanvin畫龍點睛的關鍵。

Thom Browne男裝維持著一貫語不驚人死不休的特質,本季以纖細的SM龐克對比壯碩變型的運動員為雙主軸,替巴黎最後一天平靜的男裝秀,硬是插播一齣誇張的戲碼。一開場男模即以詭譎龐克風格揭開序幕,雖然灰調格紋柔和,外套上的小狗圖案青春,甚至還背著箱型小學生書包,但配上無所不在的鉚釘、尖刺,與遮住面容的頭罩,這刻意青春甜美的元素,反襯的整體氣氛更毛骨悚然。

Thom Browne的童趣元素只是把SM龐克襯地更詭譎。

Thom Browne的童趣元素只是把SM龐克襯地更詭譎。

而另外一組粗壯路線的視覺衝擊也不惶多讓,模特兒被墊出高聳的肩型、粗壯手臂和隆起的膝蓋,形成比美式足球四分衛更加誇張的身體線條。原本帶有童趣圖案的印花西裝、條紋毛線針織洋裝或者鮮綠襯粉紅的套裝,硬是在此誇張的身形下撐到扭曲變形,仿若「科學怪人」中的怪物硬要套上人類衣著,卻僅淪落不倫不類的窘境。

Thom Brown美式足球版本的科學怪人怪物。

Thom Brown美式足球版本的科學怪人怪物。

在海潮聲與海浪陣陣的畫面中,Paul Smith帶領本季男裝進入另一世界,設計師以其慣常的纖細男性輪廓,改寫漁夫裝扮粗簡的樣貌。長大衣或夾克肩上裝飾的螢光黃布塊,而袖口、領口、針織衫或是提包手把等細節上也有螢光色塊閃動,這些微妙的顏色運用,替整系列深藍灰的海洋基調中點出夜晚捕撈的主題。而滑面長褲與長袖上衣上,綴以水母、鯊魚鰭或波光淋漓的印花,讓這實穿的系列中,又增添些這季獨特的海洋世界想像。

Paul Smith這回以「夜間海撈」世界襯托男性堅毅的形象。

Paul Smith這回以「夜間海撈」世界襯托男性堅毅的形象。

告別上季的東方長袍,這次Agnès B.的男裝回到法式青春灑落風格,夾帶點中性纖柔美。在眾多安全牌的深色大衣或西裝搭配中,Agnès Troublé穿插以短斗篷,或者乾脆讓男模穿上短褲或短裙搭貼身內搭褲,以青春少年筆觸調和出中性的男裝新風味。而瑞典休閒品牌Acne則以學生青年風格帶給秋冬男性另外的選擇。設計師Jonny Johansson將 可可色西裝外套搭配鋪棉長上衣,讓男模腳上踩著白襪搭赭紅皮鞋,有種靦腆的少年氣息;或者以點狀印花灑落在鮮紅長褲或白襯衫上,以preppy學生風格詮釋北歐青年。««

Agnès B.(左一至二)的法式男孩對比Acne(右一至二)的北歐青年。

Agnès B.(左一至二)的法式男孩對比Acne(右一至二)的北歐青年。

»»Lucas Ossendrijver made men in Lanvin handsome and elegant in the coming winter. Cleverly mixing sporty elements and formal suits, the juxtaposition just created rich visual vocabulary for menswear. On the one hand, greatcoats with dropped shoulder and suits in soft feminine colors add some softness to this collection. On the other hand, Lanvin males also appeared casual and smart while they tucked high-waist trousers into high-top sneakers or hiking boots and carrying accessories with casualness.

“Grotesque” would be the best adjective to describe Thom Browne’s latest collection for men. He maintained his preference to dramatic elements by contrasting the small and kooky punks to gigantic penchants with bulked-up figure. Checked suits, long dresses, printed suits supposed to be sweet, but those all turned into something grotesque by either studded with nails or twisted with deformed bodies. Even the light green and pink couldn’t stop the spread of creepiness, but increasing it instead.

Paul Smith set nautical world as its theme. While black, navy blue and pruni composed the main color tone, some fluorescent yellow and orange decorated this dark season, referring to the fishermen’s uniforms and light at night. The prints of jellyfish, waves and shark fin in tops and trousers also echoed to the scene of nighttime fishing.

Agnès B. and Acne provided two version of youthness. The former was a more traditional French style by inserting some feminine and subculture elements into the practical collections, such as fluttering capes, legging and short skirts. The later interpreted its Swedish youthness with more school-boy elements, like dotted pattern in shirts, trousers and knitwear and colorful arrangement in each items. ««

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