2012秋冬男裝特別報導之四: Gucci頹廢華麗 Versace重裝搖滾
FW2012 Men’s Collections: Bohemian Grunge with Luxury


Gucci 2012秋冬男裝運用不少緹花元素。

Gucci 2012秋冬男裝運用不少緹花元素。

»»如果重返19世紀是本季男裝潮流,那麼繼昨日的Prada之後,Gucci的波希米亞頹廢(Bohemian Grunge)風情娓娓道來男人瀟灑姿態;最為囂張的該是Versace大張旗鼓地宣揚80年代Gianni Versace華麗時期,只不過Donatella Versace稍加改良,刺繡緹花、金黃亮片鉚釘混搭軍裝元素。而簡約經典依舊是男裝不敗傳說,Z Zegna在新設計師Paul Surridge操刀下,維持副牌既有的年輕形象,純以質好布料表現挺拔英姿,反觀這次僅為發表型態的Alexander McQueen,則回歸經典格紋,讓男人穿上七分褲裝;另一方面,被媒體看好的土耳其設計師Umit Benan,一身軍裝改版,調和了滿是紳士韻味的米蘭男裝周。

數日時裝周下來,不置可否,緹花諒必是今年秋冬男裝重點看頭之一。Frida Giannini以波特萊爾詩集「惡之華」(Les fleurs du mal)為靈感,將Gucci的男人帶往19世紀的想像世界之中,更如同設計師所言,集浪漫與頹廢於一身,波希米亞的頹廢情懷也蕩然表露無遺。只不過Gucci的頹廢華麗版更為從容不迫,不以披披掛掛取勝,反倒是重新融合風格特質,大量運用仿古緹花、絨布等高質感面料,將披掛轉換成穿著上層次的變化。連同Gucci本季配件也跳脫傳統皮革紋路,大走緹花織紋,好比鳶尾花圖騰的旅行袋(見下圖中),令眾人驚豔。

2012秋冬的Gucci除了皮革經典配件之外,更多了緹花織紋的包款。

2012秋冬的Gucci除了皮革經典配件之外,更多了緹花織紋的包款。

無獨有偶,Versace在今年秋冬也秀出不少和「花」有關的圖騰,但更加金碧耀眼。整體說來,2011年是Donatella Versace的豐收年,除了和H & M聯名合作之外,自家品牌的早期經典也成了眾品牌取經對象,而本次秋冬男裝更可說是她對哥哥Gianni Versace在80年代輝煌世代的緬懷。因為Donatella Versace似乎不甩經濟蕭條,能鑲金包銀的,便盡情地在男裝努力施作,黑皮夾克因金黃鉚釘,流露重金搖滾嘉年華會縮影;滿是刺繡珠飾的晚服,耀人奪目。除此,Versace秋冬男裝也祭出了軍裝戲碼,但軍裝元素在此次比例上,僅是配角,以勳章、迷彩點綴性修飾居多。

Versace秋冬男裝很招搖,印花、亮片刺繡與鉚釘無所不用其極。

Versace秋冬男裝很招搖,印花、亮片刺繡與鉚釘無所不用其極。

不過談及軍裝,深受媒體喜愛的Umit Benan,其同名品牌別於剛接下的Trussardi所講究的經典路線,在這次秋冬男裝周大談軍裝,T台上的模特兒找來一票壯丁,奶油小生全數出局,落腮鬍大叔的行軍角色融入休閒元素,earthtone外套保留軍裝輪廓,回歸乾淨不做作的線條,是整場秀精彩之處,更為之好奇的是Umit Benan秀中安排了一套白色棉質車線格紋的居家服,為秋冬率先營造溫馨暖意。

Umit Benan的T台上不見奶油臉,大叔猛男撐起軍裝雄壯的一面。

Umit Benan的T台上不見奶油臉,大叔猛男撐起軍裝雄壯的一面。

在看過Umit Benan棉質居家服之後,再將目光轉移至Alexander McQueen,設計師Sarah Burton的第一套秋冬男裝則是讓男人穿上七分緊身束褲,並再度詮釋經典格紋,不過與女裝相較之下,Sarah Burton這次手法略趨保守靦腆。但本季緹花刺繡潮流當紅,設計師亦在系列中安排數套穿插其中,甚至還讓男人穿上刺繡花鞋。反觀Ermenegildo Zegna的副牌Z Zegna,走回經典路線,本著品牌創立以來強調的高質感布料製作西裝精神,在輕快的線條中彰揚男人味。綜觀各品牌發表,今年秋冬的男裝應是花樣璀璨,呆板出局。««

Alexander McQueen(左一)秋冬推出經典格紋,Z Zegna(右一至二)輕快中不乏沉穩。

Alexander McQueen(左一)秋冬推出經典格紋,Z Zegna(右一至二)輕快中不乏沉穩。

»»Jacquard fabric seems to be one of the features for menswear this winter. Gucci abusively manipulated this luxurious fabric to compose a visual poem referring to the 19th century. Mixing bohemian grunge and French dandism of Baudelaire with some modern element, Frida Giannini created the new fusion–a dandy of the 21st century. Jacquard iris patterns also appeared in the handbag that enriched its leather dominated accessories.

Versace also had floral pattern, but they were a shinning version. Donatella Versace traced back to the brand’s archive in its golden 80s. Those glittering elements decorated those leather black jackets and evening suits letting the show seem to be a rock carnival somehow. There were also some details referring to military uniforms as a side dish in this collection.

But military style must be the main dish of Umit Benan this season. Coats, jackets and shirts in earth tone presented the core spirit of officer look, but in a more concise and clean way. The designer also prepared white-cottoned casual clothing that brought some warmth to the coming autumn.

Sarah Burton in collection for Alexander McQueen played another story – a seven-length legging for man with check pattern suits. She also inserted some Jacquard element in shoes. Z Zenga still maintained its classic approach, suits of high-quality fabric with streamlined silhouette.««

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