2012秋冬男裝特別報導之二: Jil Sander童心未泯 Burberry再現學院風
FW2012 Men’s Collections: Be Both Man and Boy in Winter


Jil Sander本季將男人成熟的魅力,與男孩天真的童趣融合的完美無缺。

Jil Sander本季將男人成熟的魅力,與男孩天真的童趣融合的完美無缺。

»»Jil Sander本季運用大量黑色亮面皮革,不論是上衣、成套西裝或綁帶長大衣等,雖充滿男性氣概,卻有點令人感到不寒而慄,不過所謂男人心中永遠住著一位男孩,橘色與綠色的鯨魚、長頸龍圖樣毛衣,在整片黑色系列中顯得出眾,而更令人感到莞爾還不在此,黑色皮長大衣背面,脖子處竟出現一塊水藍、亮橘皮片,上面還印了卡通鯨魚與收音機圖樣,設計師Raf Simmons將男人成熟的魅力,與男孩天真的童趣融合的完美無缺。

Burberry本季依然商業,雖與上季的非洲元素和上上季的繽紛色調相比,稍嫌乏味,但天鵝絨西裝、招牌大衣印上大塊橫條紋,Burberry英倫學院風格表露無疑;設計師Christopher Bailey最愛玩的撞色也見於帽子及手套,甚至搖滾鉚釘也爬上皮手套及包款中,有意思的是Christopher Bailey讓男人穿上短版羽絨外套,並在針織毛衫與襯衫上秀出俏皮圖騰,表現童心一面。

Burberry英倫學院風格表露無疑,融合多種元素。

Burberry英倫學院風格表露無疑,融合多種元素。

Dolce & Gabbana貴氣逼人,歌劇般的掀開序幕,開場將一套黑色長斗篷罩於西裝外氣勢十足,西裝的天鵝絨布領片,使西裝更富層次。本季Dolce & Gabbana處處可見華麗的金色東歐刺繡圖騰,不論西裝上衣、大衣、斗篷、宮廷風禮服,甚至襪子等,此外,七分西褲也是本季重點,搭配醒目的刺繡長襪,從細節便流露濃厚Dolce & Gabbana的義式奢華。

本季Dolce & Gabbana處處可見華麗的金色東歐刺繡圖騰。

本季Dolce & Gabbana處處可見華麗的金色東歐刺繡圖騰。

Ermenegildo Zegna依然是商務人士最不會出錯的選擇,格紋或絨布西裝,卡其色大衣、或以羊毛氈製成的西裝,Ermenegildo Zegna的男性優雅總是恰如其分。Roberto Cavalli的開場皮衣帥勁十足,從低調的深灰色西裝,一直到藍紫、鵝黃、粉紅的大衣或針織上衣,甚至是品牌最引以為傲的動物紋路,Roberto Cavalli本季依然狂放、持續騷包。««

Ermenegildo Zegna(左一至二)優雅總是恰如其分,右為Roberto Cavalli,用色大膽,本季依然狂放。

Ermenegildo Zegna(左一至二)優雅總是恰如其分,右為Roberto Cavalli,用色大膽,本季依然狂放。

»»There were many important shows that you shouldn’t miss on the first day of Pitti Uomo, Milan, including Jil Sander, Burberry Prorsum, Dolce&Gabanna and Ermenegildo Zegna.

On the front side, Raf Simons let Jil Sander’s men look stern and masculine with abusive use of black leather, but the story was totally differently on the back and in the details. Cute whales and brontosauruses either swam or walked on the colorful sweaters, letting the hidden boy in man’s heart popped up from time to time.

Christopher Bailey ‘s Burberry Prorsum, as usual, was full of practical items for gentlemen, like velvet suits and coats with some stripes. There were some interesting details in hats, gloves and handbags. But comparing with the previous seasons, the African one or one with vivid color, this collection seemed to be too safe to be interesting.

Dolce & Gabanna made its’ menswear tell a royal narration with luxurious elements. Golden embroidery in byzantine style appeared in details, even on the socks. Crop trousers were also vital items, exposing the golden embroidered hoses. That was indeed an Italian male version of Dolce & Gabanna.

Ermenegildo Zegna still preserved its signature business-man style, elegant and genteel. On the contrary, Roberto Cavalli played a bold story. Vivid yellow, and pink, indigo leather coat and knitwear composed a cheery allegro for male customers. Someone who enjoys having fun with fashion must take a look in this winter collection.««

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