2012秋冬男裝特別報導之七: LV帶你環遊世界 JPG挑戰混搭極限
FW2012 Men’s Collections: A Different Take on Nostlagia


Louis Vuitton 2012秋冬男裝帶你環遊世界。

Louis Vuitton 2012秋冬男裝帶你環遊世界。

»»在大牌雲集的巴黎男裝第二日,Kim Jones繼續演繹Louis Vuitton賴以成名的旅遊元素;Yohji Yamamoto在本季懷舊潮流中如魚得水;Rick Owens另闢蹊徑,徹底顛覆自己的標誌線條;Dries van Noten結合迷幻印花與傳統男裝線條;Jean Paul Gaultier則不拘一格,挑戰混搭極限;Balmain在Oliver Rousteing帶領下,正緩步走出新路線。

以插畫家Antonio Lopez為靈感,Kim Jones用獨到的方式讓Louis Vuitton的41套服裝環遊世界,開場看似中規中矩的西裝就暗藏玄機,以內搭和式領定下基調;厚重的毛氈長袍彌漫著中東風味,而接近尾聲的一套日式短打更點明了異國風情。而英式防水獵裝與厚重登山夾克,再加上大容量箱包款式的組合,加強了全系列的旅行元素。在布料的使用上,Kim Jones也蒐盡全球奇珍,其中一套靛藍色西裝採用了日本Okujin手織絲綢,據設計師表示,每日產量約只有20公分。

Yohji Yamamoto從開場的20世紀法國報童,到解構大禮服(Morning Coat)與雙重領片的海軍藍軍裝,無不顯現Yohji式的浪漫懷舊;而將外套與背心扣在一起的穿搭變化,也使人眼前一亮。除了慣用的厚重毛料材質之外,Yohji在本季也大量使用細膩飄逸的絲質,為系列帶來奢華東方氣息;荷蘭式高帽、毛氈大衣與素人模特兒的組合,則讓人想起Pieter Bruegel畫作中宴飲的農民,令人會心一笑。

Yohji Yamamoto 2012秋冬男裝不脫標誌性的懷舊浪漫。

Yohji Yamamoto 2012秋冬男裝不脫標誌性的懷舊浪漫。

繼充滿了曳地長裙的春夏系列之後,Rick Owens在以「山岳」為名的2012秋冬系列中,甫一開場就用高腰褲與白色上衣的簡潔組合宣告男性元素的回歸。顛覆過去「身長腳短」的標誌性線條,本季從西裝外套到機車皮衣,縮短的衣長與高腰褲創造出截然相反的錯覺;膠印條紋的使用則充滿圖像性,搭配連衣皮革圍巾搶眼十足。而在山上,羽絨大衣自然是不可或缺的元素,Rick Owens塑造卡通人物般的驚人體積,恐怕連「雪人」也要為之臣服。

Rick Owens 2012秋冬男裝顛覆了自己慣用的線條。

Rick Owens 2012秋冬男裝顛覆了自己慣用的線條。

Dries van Noten本季的秀場與荷蘭藝術家Gijs Frieling和Job Wouters合作,在走秀的同時,在背景牆面創作五彩斑斕的壁畫。而男裝全系列也同樣繽紛,將純白大衣作為畫布,以野獸派風味的繁複印花,試圖帶回60、70年代的迷幻色彩;回應本季的復古軍事風,高腰線的雙排釦大衣帶出19世紀流風,搭配延續前兩季的多層領片,演繹傳統男裝的優雅線條之餘也不失現代感。

Dries van Noten 2012秋冬男裝以「迷幻優雅」為主軸。

Dries van Noten 2012秋冬男裝以「迷幻優雅」為主軸。

Jean Paul Gaultier本季大玩混搭,以磚牆為基底的繁複印花,與海軍大衣、機車皮衣、運動褲、晚禮服乃至西部牛仔的競技皮裙交相爭輝;在Jean-Paul Gaultier的巧手下,正式與休閒、奢華與平民都失去了界線,而在秀上Andrei Pejic,更為系列增添雌雄莫辨的氣質。Oliver Rousteing接手Balmain後,延續Decarnin的風格,以19世紀軍裝搭配華麗搖滾的彩色皮褲與破爛牛仔仍是主軸,但Rousteing「戰爭與和平」中的俄國公子哥兒,面對滿身鉚釘的Rocker,顯然已占盡上風,逐步將品牌往更加優雅的方向推進。««

 

Jean Paul Gaultier(左一至二)2012秋冬男裝打破一切疆界,Balmain(右一至二)則在Rousteing帶領下緩步轉型。

Jean Paul Gaultier(左一至二)2012秋冬男裝打破一切疆界,Balmain(右一至二)則在Rousteing帶領下緩步轉型。

»»Kim Jones, the new creative director at Louis Vuitton, is reportedly an avid traveler himself, which perfectly suited the brand’s image as a trunkmaker. Inspired by the works of fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez, the collection was built on a strong undertone on Japanese Culture, ranging from Kimono collars to exotic Japanese fabric. The use of waxed cotton jackets and trunks as handbags also added to the rugged, man on the road atmosphere of the collection

Yohji Yamamoto continued his personal trait of nostalgia, presenting outfits from yesteryear ranging from the French garcon from early 20th century to deconstructed morning coats and Navy uniforms. Deviating from his staple heavy wools, Yohji introduced rust silk robes to the collection for an almost decadent orientalism.

Naming his collection “mountains”, Rick Owens’ first few looks resembled the proportions of mountains by reversing his signature proportion. The short jackets are definitely a groundbreaking touch in his collections. Also feeding off the mountain scene, the gigantic shapes of the show closing down coats could probably scare off a Yeti.

Collaborating with Dutch artists Gijs Frieling and Job Wouters, Dires van Noten had the artists spontaneously paint the wall during the show. Dries’ own collection was based on similarly vibrant colored prints, which the designer used in an effort to evoke the psychedelic mood of the 60s and 70s. Paired up with the silhouettes of high waited great coats, Dries created what he dubbed as “psychedelic elegance”.

Jean Paul Gaultier brought mix and match to the next level, blending pea-coats, perfectos, track pants, tuxedos and even cowboy aprons with a brick motif print. Olivier Rousteing is took over where Decarnin left off at Balmain, but twisted it to a more elegant and less glam rock direction.««

 

 

 

 

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