2012秋冬男裝特別報導之六: Mugler斗篷小飛俠 Lacroix簡約低調
FW2012 Men’s Collections: Mugler in Capes, Lacroix with Low-key Luxury


Mugler 2012秋冬男裝低調許多。

Mugler 2012秋冬男裝低調許多。

»»巴黎男裝週第一天開跑,僅有Mugler、Christian Lacroix撐場,大家似乎將焦點放到明日Louis Vuitton、Yohji Yamamoto等大牌重頭戲身上,少了煙硝味。不過Mugler跳脫2012春夏的未來色彩,讓男人秋冬變得穩重低調,應該有讓眾人鬆了一口氣。而值得稱讚的,竟不是Christian Lacroix的男裝表現,反是來自日本的設計師Arashi Yanagawa,揉合女裝元素於男裝設計之中,尤其是那大衣外套剪裁,修飾了整體肩線,宣告現在正是美男世代。

Mugler甫開場,便是男模一身筆挺黑白套裝,背架著相機肩帶,很有Nicola Formichetti前衛氛圍,不免引人揣測這次主題又想拿哪位英雄開刀,因為光是開場,便能讓大家迅速掉入宛如諜報電影想像。但後續幾套服裝走秀下來,Nicola Formichetti異於常人的表演慾似乎和另一位男裝設計師Romain Kremer達成共識,帶著Mugler的男人跳脫了舞台戲劇化範疇,回到市場實穿的基本考量,返回經典。設計師們結合了本季秋冬趨勢之一的軍裝元素,以及cocoon coat輪廓結構,創造Mugler別於2012春夏SM情節的乾淨線條,讓男人們衣服一件件穿回去,流露出紳士般的雋永神情。

而在這季,Mugler也運用不少印花、緊身褲元素,讓原本乾淨素雅的男裝多了視覺上的層次玩味,同時斗篷罩式外套,不管是加長版或是和傳統大衣拼接的變裝版,應該在低調收斂之中,有保留住Nicola Formichetti向來搞怪前衛的心思。

Mugler 2012秋冬出場第一套服裝很有諜報電影氛圍,更有不少斗蓬式設計。

Mugler 2012秋冬出場第一套服裝很有諜報電影氛圍,更有不少斗篷式設計。

然而Christian Lacroix男裝才發表沒多久,便有網民在網路上留言提及Christian Lacroix是否有打算毀掉他的個人品牌;相較於2012春夏男裝發表之華麗與細膩度,確實這次男裝表現略顯收斂,不管是舞台妝或服裝本身表現,Christian Lacroix拿掉了春夏發表時運用大量刺繡鑲鑽做工的細節,反而專心於男裝最基礎的線條結構。至於道地的巴黎品牌Ami,設計師Alexandre Mattiussi讓法國男人充滿街頭隨性又不失穩重的氣息,三件式針織毛呢穿搭,搖擺於正式與休閒之間,算是讓首日的巴黎時裝週添色許多。

Christian Lacroix(左一至二)本季秋冬低調許多,Ami(右一至二)則是充滿巴黎男人的悠閒品味。

Christian Lacroix(左一至二)本季秋冬低調許多,Ami(右一至二)則是充滿巴黎男人的悠閒品味。

不過來自日本的John Lawrence Sullivan,倒是讓人驚豔。中生代日本設計師Arashi Yanagawa自2007春夏首度發表個人系列以來,便專注於布料研究與塑造男人優雅輪廓。這次秋冬,不乏可見在墊肩部分的變化,不僅融入女裝線條,於肩線和腰身部分略做修飾,更是放寬加長了男人的褲管,呼應陰柔美形男世代的現下,發現男人也能用「飄逸感十足」來形容。««

John Lawrence Sullivan 2012秋冬走陰柔美男子路線。

John Lawrence Sullivan 2012秋冬走陰柔美男子路線。

»»Though it was the opening day of Paris fashion week for menswear, only some big names opened the curtains. Mugler began with a man in suit carrying a camera, displaying an atmosphere of spy movies which was definitely Nicola Formichetti’s avant-garde style. But his dramatic elements were suppressed by the other designer’s commercial concerns. Practical items, like military jackets, cocoon coats and printed capes, shaped a clean and modern gentleman of Mugler, replacing the SM suggestion collection of the last summer collection.

A few people didn’t give a positive view for Christian Lacroix’s menswear, but they might alter their attitudes in this season. Comparing with the luxurious and extravagant style of the last collection, this winter collection went back to the structure and details. As for Ami, the Parisian brand provided a collection with both casual and formal items, mixing some elements from the street. The three-piece knitwear suits brought something interesting to the opening day.

John Lawrence Sullivan, the Japanese brand, did amaze us in some ways. Arashi Yanagawa has devoted himself to the usage of fabric and elegant contour and that did contribute a lot to the sophisticated series. The padded shoulders and waist cutting with soft line contained some feminine characteristics. The designer told us men could be beautiful and handsome at the same time.««

推到Facebook臉書!把這篇文章貼到twitter分享到微博!手機版網站