2012秋冬男裝特別報導之五:Giorgio Armani柔性美 Marc Jacobs運動風
FW2012 Men’s Collections: Soft-Silhouette Suits or Sporty Ones


Giorgio Armani的西裝雖寬鬆,但細節搭配不顯老氣。

Giorgio Armani的西裝雖寬鬆,但細節搭配不顯老氣。

»»米蘭男裝周的最後一天,除了Giorgio Armani仍以穩重的男士風采為主軸外,Diesel Black Gold、Dsquared²與Marc Jacobs卻或叛逆搖滾或運動活力的青春樣貌,企圖拉低米蘭男裝的平均視覺年齡。

雖然Giorgio Armani系列似乎也遵循這季米蘭男裝的默契:以正式西裝為主軸,但西服大師自有一套與眾不同的經典解讀,有別於當前流行的合身線條輪廓,Giorgio Armani以寬鬆柔軟的線條貫穿整場秀。秀上寬大的長褲令人聯想到1930年代的男士老爺褲,在前片褲頭上以多達六支活褶與低褲襠創造出空間感,再搭配合身自然的外套肩線,讓秋冬常見的人字紋毛呢、粗燈心絨、斜紋軟呢等布料,自然垂墜出Armani招牌的柔性男裝線條。而傳統的三件式西裝搭配,在Armani的裁剪下卻不顯老氣,不管是將亮面皮革外套反襯毛呢背心、以粗針織編織成的外套,或是安插藍色針織衫來增添灰調系列的彩度,甚至在針織衫與背心上採用拉鍊作開襟,使背心扣子與外顯的褶子變成耐人尋味的細節,這些低調的手法都替這看似復古系列增添幾抹現代元素。

Marc Jacobs雖也推西裝系列,但用色大膽展現運動活力。

Marc Jacobs雖也推西裝系列,但用色大膽展現運動活力。

Marc Jacobs的男裝只有靜態展演,但運動活力卻從多彩的單品組合中彈跳出來,打破秋冬沉悶的氣氛。以芥末黃搭橄欖綠的活潑顏色作開場白,粉橘、淺灰再綴點塗鴉,即使是西裝套裝也沾染了輕鬆的氣氛。配件上的運動元素也不惶多讓,鱷魚皮紋的運動鞋、童趣十足的布料拼接後背包,或者是繫在腰際的絨毛球與手上拿的塗鴉滑板,這一切搭配著模特兒鼻樑上的彩色墨鏡,讓人不禁聯想Marc Jacobs在這玩性大發的系列背後,淘氣的微笑。

Diesel Black Gold秋冬男裝維持低調搖滾路線。

Diesel Black Gold秋冬男裝維持低調搖滾路線。

Renzo Rosso對旗下的高檔系列Diesel Black Gold野心勃勃,這季再次將秀台拉回米蘭辦秀,以品牌擅長的搖滾風格深耕歐洲市場。整場秀中有各式皮料的精采應用,像是以麂皮拉克蘭袖拼接毛衣、亮皮騎士外套與合身皮褲等單品,讓整場秀的實穿單品裡多了隨興的奢華。而為呼應其主題搖滾樂界的頹廢,部分男模長髮披肩,有些甚至有刺青在脖子上,讓秋冬裸露出的部分肌膚有另一種草莽的性感,使整場秀跳出整個米蘭男裝周奢華穩重的基調。

Dsquared²依舊以年輕壞小子為此季特色。

Dsquared²依舊以年輕壞小子為此季特色。

Dsquared²的設計雙人組Dean與Dan Caten仍維持品牌街頭年輕樣貌,但似乎除了讓男模在秀場演出抽菸與丟考卷的校園叛逆外,服裝系列較少讓人驚艷的爆點。上半身的格紋拼接襯衫、皮外套、菱紋襯衫,搭配合身的西裝褲與牛仔褲,以呼應時下流行的細身線條,而偶來幾筆雙褲頭的設計又帶點嘻哈街頭的玩味;軍綠色夾克上除了豐厚的毛海滾帽邊外,袖子上則布滿徽章與金屬扣飾。這類裝飾雖無法讓這季的秀令人印象深刻,但仍讓整體系列有多元的視覺語彙。««

»»In the last day of Milan fashion week for menswear, Giorgio Armani brought us something classic with a loose tone. The pleated wide trousers made of tweed, wide-ribbed corduroy or herringbone reminded us the suits of the 1930s while Giorgio Armani still added some modern elements in this collection, such as zippered vests, cardigan jackets, knitwear with bright blue and so on. That made his signature soft suit much younger.

Marc Jacob didn’t have a runway show but its photography told a vivid sporty story. Suits, jackets and pants in mustard yellow, light orange and olive green lightened the atmosphere of the gloomy winter days. The accessories were also vital elements of sporty style. Sneakers, canvas back bags, furry balls and graffiti slides did enrich Marc Jacob’s sporty menswear this year.

Renzo Rosso showed his great ambition in Diesel Black Gold by moving the runway show to Milan. The basic tone of this collection was still the rock spirit. Manipulating oily leather, suede, Diesel Black Gold had its collection low-key but with a hint of luxury.

Dsquared² portrayed their rebellion in the runway more than in clothing. While models acted like naughty school boys, the leather jackets, coats and jeans just maintained the same style as their previous seasons. ««

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